I just bought a 94 LT1 with about 100,000 miles on it.
My question is what in terms of machine work should i get done during a rebuild?

 

Depends upon what is worn. It might not need anything.

A rebuild to "stock" might only include rings, bearings, and gaskets, with only the valve job requiring machine shop involvement. If the cylinders are worn to the point of needing to be bored to the next size up, then a machine shop will have to do that, as well as install the pistons onto the rods. While the old pistons are off would be a good time to have the rods fitted with ARP bolts and resized.

The crank may need the journals turned down to the next undersize, like .010" under. Getting the crank balanced after that wouldn't be a bad idea, but wouldn't typically be considered part of a "rebuild".

I would consider a new timing chain and gear set "mandatory".

 

So if im lucky i could just have the block and heads cleaned and be good to go. minus of course the valve job ect.
Thanks

 

Hey Guys, these questions might seem stupid, but as far as engine rebuilding goes I am a beginner. Ive been reading alot of posts about rebuilding and ive seen all this information before, but i have no idea what it means.

When you say the crank journals may need turned down, what does that mean? Is that where the rods connect to the crank? Also, what does it affect on the engine? The stroke size? Sorry but i am completley lost.
and what are "ARP" bolts?
Thanks for anybody that provides some insight for me.

 

It's where the rod bearings run on the crank, and where the crankcase bearings hold the crank.

You need precise sizing, roundness, and surface finish on the crank journals, referred to as "main" and "rod" journals. You then use bearing inserts that are appropriately undersized to match the new journal sizes. It doesn't affect the stroke (typically).

 

If the engine runs good and has good oil pressure you pry shoudent mess with it at this time. Thoese engines go for a long time 100,000 is noting for it. If you have to do some thing to it just put a bigger cam and new lifters and rolor rockers,headers and such. You can also have the computer set up and do intake to make some power. Lt1's have some power.

 

ARP is a brand name, they are a company who makes high quality fasteners, mostly for automotive. They are basically the only major player when it comes to good bolts for automotive applications. On summit racing search for ARP then narrow it down to a 350 chevy and see what's there and the pricing. That'll give you some idea what you'll be paying for what.

 

Ok thanks five7kid that makes sence now that you explain it.
I dont know how well the motor runs, never witnessed it running. i only have to go on what the seller has told me. I figure might as well tear it down clean it up a bit maybe do a little porting, possibly a cam, throw some new gaskets and seals in there and be good to go.
Sound like a good way to go?
Thanks