retro fitting rollor lifters out of a 91 305 into a 70s 350?
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Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: LO3
Transmission: T-5
retro fitting rollor lifters out of a 91 305 into a 70s 350?
Ok, I am building my first engine, a mid 70s 4 bolt main 350, stroked to a 383.
Now, first things first, I am VERY in-experienced. Im a smart kid, I just havnt been there done that yet. In this thread: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...+roller+lifter
It mentions taking the roller lifters and assembly out of a 87+ small block and putting them into an old school block, is this possible? I know that some of the theory's covered in that thread were dis-credited, I want to know if this is possible. At this point I have almost nothing invested in the block, just some time and then getting it washed by the local machine shop.
Now, first things first, I am VERY in-experienced. Im a smart kid, I just havnt been there done that yet. In this thread: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...+roller+lifter
It mentions taking the roller lifters and assembly out of a 87+ small block and putting them into an old school block, is this possible? I know that some of the theory's covered in that thread were dis-credited, I want to know if this is possible. At this point I have almost nothing invested in the block, just some time and then getting it washed by the local machine shop.
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From: Philly, PA
Re: retro fitting rollor lifters out of a 91 305 into a 70s 350?
Not easily. If you want roller lifters in an early block you buy a retro-roller conversion kit that uses a completely different roller lifter system than the factory uses. It's not cheap either- typically around $750 when all's said and done.
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Member
Joined: Nov 2006
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Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: LO3
Transmission: T-5
Re: retro fitting rollor lifters out of a 91 305 into a 70s 350?
fter some more researching i can see I DONT have the skill to do this. Oh well, flat bottom lifters it is then.
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: louisville, ky
Axle/Gears: '01 3.42 10 bolt
Re: retro fitting rollor lifters out of a 91 305 into a 70s 350?
it's the same skill level, you just have to have the right parts. to get roller stuff to work in your block, you have to get a retro camshaft and lifters. it's only if you are trying to install factory roller stuff in your block that lots of machine work needs to be done.
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Re: retro fitting rollor lifters out of a 91 305 into a 70s 350?
Dare I mention using the late model 2.4L lifters and fabbing up a spider holder? :gasp:
Nothing wrong with a flat tappet cam setup, you'll be fine with that.
Nothing wrong with a flat tappet cam setup, you'll be fine with that.
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Joined: Nov 2006
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Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: LO3
Transmission: T-5
Re: retro fitting rollor lifters out of a 91 305 into a 70s 350?
Alright, so the way to go is a Hydraulic flat tappet, right? How about a summit brand cam, are they any good?
I plan on having Nitrous injection on this car, and so I was looking at something that I can run daily as that has a longer exhaust stroke. Honestly, I have a SMALL make and eat MOST of it too.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
This just looks like way too good of a deal, good stuff?
I will be driving the car regularly, but school and work are both very close to home. I want it to sound lopey, but still drive down the street OK.
I plan on having Nitrous injection on this car, and so I was looking at something that I can run daily as that has a longer exhaust stroke. Honestly, I have a SMALL make and eat MOST of it too.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
This just looks like way too good of a deal, good stuff?
I will be driving the car regularly, but school and work are both very close to home. I want it to sound lopey, but still drive down the street OK.
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From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
Re: retro fitting rollor lifters out of a 91 305 into a 70s 350?
A very good cam for a moderate street machine with nitrous.
Has a cool idle. Power brakes will be fine. With its extended exhaust duration, and wide LSA it will enhance the power while on nitrous.
A good choice when you're on a budget. Add a K to the park number and get a cam+lifter set for $80. Not a bad deal. SUM-K1105
This cam needs a bit of compresssion and a new set of stock diameter bolt on performance valvesprings. Lunati 73943 comp 981. Isky 205D work well.
This cam will work with a stock converter but is much happier with a 2800 high stall. (auto trans) Needs some gear too 3.73-4.10 best.
A hi rise intake and 750cfm carb + headers are nice.
Degree it in on a 107 intake C/L for best performance on the squirt.
Moderate reworking of the distributor timing advacnce curve is effective.
You want to shorten the advance travle to allow increased initial idle timing.
20-24deg at idle you stay with 34-36 deg at max advance. A stock distributor has around 20-24deg advance in it. too much. You want around 12-24deg.
before you spend 1$ on a stoker kit. buy a new set of aftermarket hi performance cylinder heads for your 350. A 383 with a poor "Stock" cylinder head will not perform near as well as a 350 that had good cylinder heads on it.
Put the heads ahead of the 383 stroker kit.
Sam goes fr a roller vs flat tappet cam.
Improved cylinder head airflow should be a high priority to make horsepower.
Has a cool idle. Power brakes will be fine. With its extended exhaust duration, and wide LSA it will enhance the power while on nitrous.
A good choice when you're on a budget. Add a K to the park number and get a cam+lifter set for $80. Not a bad deal. SUM-K1105
This cam needs a bit of compresssion and a new set of stock diameter bolt on performance valvesprings. Lunati 73943 comp 981. Isky 205D work well.
This cam will work with a stock converter but is much happier with a 2800 high stall. (auto trans) Needs some gear too 3.73-4.10 best.
A hi rise intake and 750cfm carb + headers are nice.
Degree it in on a 107 intake C/L for best performance on the squirt.
Moderate reworking of the distributor timing advacnce curve is effective.
You want to shorten the advance travle to allow increased initial idle timing.
20-24deg at idle you stay with 34-36 deg at max advance. A stock distributor has around 20-24deg advance in it. too much. You want around 12-24deg.
before you spend 1$ on a stoker kit. buy a new set of aftermarket hi performance cylinder heads for your 350. A 383 with a poor "Stock" cylinder head will not perform near as well as a 350 that had good cylinder heads on it.
Put the heads ahead of the 383 stroker kit.
Sam goes fr a roller vs flat tappet cam.
Improved cylinder head airflow should be a high priority to make horsepower.
Last edited by F-BIRD'88; Dec 5, 2007 at 04:16 PM.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 285
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Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: LO3
Transmission: T-5
Re: retro fitting rollor lifters out of a 91 305 into a 70s 350?
First of all, thank you soo much for taking the time to help me out. Alot of the stuff you said I already THOUGHT I knew, but hearing it confirmed by someone who has been there done that helps alot.
Thank you guys so much, I would never be able to get this done without ya'll
EDIT: About what can I expect for a set of decent heads on E-bay? What is a decent head? With any head that says "vortech" do you have to use different exhaust manifolds?
A very good cam for a moderate street machine with nitrous.
Has a cool idle. Power brakes will be fine. With its extended exhaust duration, and wide LSA it will enhance the power while on nitrous.
A good choice when you're on a budget. Add a K to the park number and get a cam+lifter set for $80. Not a bad deal. SUM-K1105
This cam needs a bit of compresssion and a new set of stock diameter bolt on performance valvesprings. Lunati 73943 comp 981. Isky 205D work well.
Because I plan to switch to the summit brand roller tip rockers, will they come with the better springs?
This cam will work with a stock converter but is much happier with a 2800 high stall. (auto trans) Needs some gear too 3.73-4.10 best.
I am on a manual T-5 with 3.42, but I plan to go up to 3.73 or 4.11 soon, is this as vital with a T-5?
A hi rise intake and 750cfm carb + headers are nice.
Degree it in on a 107 intake C/L for best performance on the squirt.
I follow as far as the intake and the headers go, but you lost me on 107 intake....
Moderate reworking of the distributor timing advacnce curve is effective.
You want to shorten the advance travle to allow increased initial idle timing.
20-24deg at idle you stay with 34-36 deg at max advance. A stock distributor has around 20-24deg advance in it. too much. You want around 12-24deg.
I will be running the summit version of an MSD box with the distributor, will that compensate? I know that there is an adjustable mechanical advance...
before you spend 1$ on a stoker kit. buy a new set of aftermarket hi performance cylinder heads for your 350. A 383 with a poor "Stock" cylinder head will not perform near as well as a 350 that had good cylinder heads on it.
Put the heads ahead of the 383 stroker kit.
This is not the first time I have heard that same advice, and I plan on making the heads a priority BEFORE the nitrous injection. However, the 350 doesn't have a rotating assembly, and I cant stand running the 305 any longer. I will have my machinist look at the heads I have, and I know some of the 70s heads were decent. If I lucked out and have them, then I will have him clean them up and work his magic, if not, I will be buying some cheap heads off e-bay. What kind of price will I be looking at?
Sam goes fr a roller vs flat tappet cam.
Improved cylinder head airflow should be a high priority to make horsepower.
The heads will be before the roller lifters, but I wanted to know if later on I can switch to roller lifters without switching my cam?
Has a cool idle. Power brakes will be fine. With its extended exhaust duration, and wide LSA it will enhance the power while on nitrous.
A good choice when you're on a budget. Add a K to the park number and get a cam+lifter set for $80. Not a bad deal. SUM-K1105
This cam needs a bit of compresssion and a new set of stock diameter bolt on performance valvesprings. Lunati 73943 comp 981. Isky 205D work well.
Because I plan to switch to the summit brand roller tip rockers, will they come with the better springs?
This cam will work with a stock converter but is much happier with a 2800 high stall. (auto trans) Needs some gear too 3.73-4.10 best.
I am on a manual T-5 with 3.42, but I plan to go up to 3.73 or 4.11 soon, is this as vital with a T-5?
A hi rise intake and 750cfm carb + headers are nice.
Degree it in on a 107 intake C/L for best performance on the squirt.
I follow as far as the intake and the headers go, but you lost me on 107 intake....
Moderate reworking of the distributor timing advacnce curve is effective.
You want to shorten the advance travle to allow increased initial idle timing.
20-24deg at idle you stay with 34-36 deg at max advance. A stock distributor has around 20-24deg advance in it. too much. You want around 12-24deg.
I will be running the summit version of an MSD box with the distributor, will that compensate? I know that there is an adjustable mechanical advance...
before you spend 1$ on a stoker kit. buy a new set of aftermarket hi performance cylinder heads for your 350. A 383 with a poor "Stock" cylinder head will not perform near as well as a 350 that had good cylinder heads on it.
Put the heads ahead of the 383 stroker kit.
This is not the first time I have heard that same advice, and I plan on making the heads a priority BEFORE the nitrous injection. However, the 350 doesn't have a rotating assembly, and I cant stand running the 305 any longer. I will have my machinist look at the heads I have, and I know some of the 70s heads were decent. If I lucked out and have them, then I will have him clean them up and work his magic, if not, I will be buying some cheap heads off e-bay. What kind of price will I be looking at?
Sam goes fr a roller vs flat tappet cam.
Improved cylinder head airflow should be a high priority to make horsepower.
The heads will be before the roller lifters, but I wanted to know if later on I can switch to roller lifters without switching my cam?
Thank you guys so much, I would never be able to get this done without ya'll
EDIT: About what can I expect for a set of decent heads on E-bay? What is a decent head? With any head that says "vortech" do you have to use different exhaust manifolds?
Last edited by STEEL; Dec 5, 2007 at 06:39 PM.
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