I read in another post there was a topic to make your own wiring harness for upgraded headlights like this: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...w=1&N=700+150+
I dont want to spend 100+ if i can make it myself....
Thanks, if this is in the wrong sec sorry

 

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bump

 

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let me see if i can find the wiring diagram. you will need 40amp relay i believe and some 10 or 12 guage wire. i think i used 10.

 

check out this page in the tech articles...

https://www.thirdgen.org/headlightupgrade

 

could this be moved to electronics?

 

Very easy to do just need a realay and wire. Some thing i do on all the hid kits i install.


30 power to battery
85 headlight wire in car
84 ground
86 wire out to headlights
86a not used

Hids draw less power than halogen but still pull 30-40amps when first turned on. I have seen many burnt sockets and wires.

 

yea i was looking into something like that. i upgraded mine to the highest power H4 hyper whites with removable bulb lenses and ive melted both my plugs lol. i just did a quick fix till i can find some new connectors.

ive done alot of wiring for sub systems etc and 10gauge is wayyyy overkill for a headlight system. a 12 guage would be alot better suited, i can tell u they dont use 10gauge on the painless kits, the 10gauge is wayy to stiff to bend etc, i used 10gauge on sub systems up to 500w and 8 gauge up to 1000w, the kits the sell u are overkill mostly for sub systems. my dads an electrician thats how i kno wat i can use.

im pretty sure the purple and yellow wires under the dash that control the voltage to the starter and rear window hatch arent even 10gauge and they draw alot of amps.

111$ is overkill just fab up a 40amp fuse and run 12gauge wire MAX

wat i need is the connectors to the back of the bulbs... anyone know where i can get em??

 

this is in the tech articles articles stickied to the home page were the extremely common stuff is. that is why it isn't in the electronics section.


if you find a place to get the heavy duty connections instead of factory ones, let me know as well. all i have are the factory type. however, i am only running silverstars.

 

ok thanks

 

would this work?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-A...QQcmdZViewItem

 

bummp

 

it says its for H4 bulbs and the connectors that are a light tan are the bulb connectors and they seem correct.... idk if they are heavy duty but it looks ok. u really dont need a kit and by the looks of it that kit doesnt seem to be as strong as the stock wiring. i would get good connectors, and just run thicker wire.

 

well i bought hella housings off summit for 40/pc and am planning on buying the h4 osram silverstars bulbs...

its cheap on ebay but i checked summit and the same thing was about 40...

what kind of connectors? im totally new at this wiring stuff no one ever responds...

^thanks btw!

 

Audio is a completely different animal than a purely resistive DC load. Numbers are largely exaggerated in that industry. You need to think in terms of RMS. Wires don't care about peaks when you're dealing with AC. What is an 800 watt amplifier will only hit 800 watts at the peak of the waveform, and RMS would be only 565 watts. That is even assuming you're somehow able to even force the thing to drive at full blast. There is a reason why the fuses in radios and amps seem way small for the wattages...because listed numbers are usually marketing nonsense. Look at reputable names like JL. Pretty small wattage numbers across the board...this is telling of honesty. Your retail outfits like Sony, Pioneer, Kenwood, anything you can buy at a chain always play the ridiculous kilowatt numbers game.

Any time you see charts quoting ampacity of 10 gauge wire, it's for a single core (solid) wire. The more strands in a stranded wire, the less ampacity it has because...in an ideal world, they would match the cross-sectional area to the quoted AWG, and the actual OD of the bundled strands would wind up being larger than a solid core wire (due to the air gaps), but this is not the case, as stranded wire always has the same OD as solid core for a given AWG size.

All that being said, 10 gauge is a good choice for headlight wiring. The factory's choice was 16 gauge (1 mm˛) (according to my factory manual). I couldn't care less what GM chose to use for wires in other areas. The name of the game with GM (and all other companies) was to put in the smallest wire possible without being a fire hazard. This is why all cars have the interior lights dim with the turn signals. Car wiring just barely handles what it's rated to. It's not optimized for longevity or performance. The wiring is even allowed to get warm from resistance, to a certain point.