Cam advice..help
Cam advice..help
My friend needs the perfect cam for his combo its a 355 with vette aluminum heads(dont know the cast number),double springs,1.5 Trick flow rockers,Holley 750cfm,Victor jr intake,Lunati hydraulic flat 246/246 515"/515" 108LSA,TH-350 with TCI 3500 stall all this on ZX 300 '91 and he want to spray nitrous but he want to swap the cam to a nitrous cam but he didnt find the perfect nitrous cam for his set up...help
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Posts: 10,763
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Re: Cam advice..help
That's a mighty big cam to be hydraulic flat. He's probably losing out on some of the top end by it being hydraulic. For that size of cam i'd seriously recommend a solid flat.
That's very similar to the Isky Z-27 actually.
The heads are probably 113 heads. Find out what his actual compression ratio is. ie including deck height and piston dish size and whatnot.
Something along the lines of the XS282S from Comp, 280B-6, NX284H has good specs, but i'd change the lobes to solid ones. You seem to already know what he should change, wider LSA, longer exhaust duration. I'd also recommend solid flat tappet. Might be worth getting one custom ground from crane, comp or Isky.
That's very similar to the Isky Z-27 actually.
The heads are probably 113 heads. Find out what his actual compression ratio is. ie including deck height and piston dish size and whatnot.
Something along the lines of the XS282S from Comp, 280B-6, NX284H has good specs, but i'd change the lobes to solid ones. You seem to already know what he should change, wider LSA, longer exhaust duration. I'd also recommend solid flat tappet. Might be worth getting one custom ground from crane, comp or Isky.
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 6,111
Likes: 53
From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
Re: Cam advice..help
Don;t know about the perfect nitrous cam but here are three cams he might consider that should make more power with nitrous than the cam he has now.
All are nitrous friendly:
Crane #113861 F-288-2 288-298 248-258@.050 .500-.520" 114LSA.
degree it in and verify that the cam is advanced on around a 107 intake lobe C/L. If you really want to get fussy, experiment with the cam advance a bit.
The motor, when on the juice, will tell you what is best. Somewhere around 104 to 110 intake C/L
Another good nitrous friendly cam is the GM 1st design Z-28 off road cam
Crane #968821 257-269@.050" .494-.512" 112LSA.
Again experiment with the cam advance 103 to 109 intake lobe C/L.
Crane #114681 F-280-2 280-288 244-252@.050" .518-.536" 112LSA is a good one too.
I'd experiment with 103 to 110 intake c/L cam phasing (advance) on any/all these to dial 'er in.
These are all solid lifter cams that are easy on the valve train and street/strip friendly.
A "nitrous cam" is all about getting the high(er) volume of exhaust gas out of the motor when on the juice. These cams with extended exhaust duration and wide(r) LSA, increase the exhaust "blowdown period" by opening the exhaust valve sooner (when installed advanced in the motor)
Effectively, the intake lobe and timing is the same as a good N/A cam and the exhaust duration and valve timing is modified to help get rid of the extra exhaust gas volume created by the nitrous power.
These off the shelf crane cams make very good nitrous cams especially when you play a bit with the cam advance to find the Perfect valve timing for nitrous power.
All these Crane cams make very good power when not using the nitrous too.
All are nitrous friendly:
Crane #113861 F-288-2 288-298 248-258@.050 .500-.520" 114LSA.
degree it in and verify that the cam is advanced on around a 107 intake lobe C/L. If you really want to get fussy, experiment with the cam advance a bit.
The motor, when on the juice, will tell you what is best. Somewhere around 104 to 110 intake C/L
Another good nitrous friendly cam is the GM 1st design Z-28 off road cam
Crane #968821 257-269@.050" .494-.512" 112LSA.
Again experiment with the cam advance 103 to 109 intake lobe C/L.
Crane #114681 F-280-2 280-288 244-252@.050" .518-.536" 112LSA is a good one too.
I'd experiment with 103 to 110 intake c/L cam phasing (advance) on any/all these to dial 'er in.
These are all solid lifter cams that are easy on the valve train and street/strip friendly.
A "nitrous cam" is all about getting the high(er) volume of exhaust gas out of the motor when on the juice. These cams with extended exhaust duration and wide(r) LSA, increase the exhaust "blowdown period" by opening the exhaust valve sooner (when installed advanced in the motor)
Effectively, the intake lobe and timing is the same as a good N/A cam and the exhaust duration and valve timing is modified to help get rid of the extra exhaust gas volume created by the nitrous power.
These off the shelf crane cams make very good nitrous cams especially when you play a bit with the cam advance to find the Perfect valve timing for nitrous power.
All these Crane cams make very good power when not using the nitrous too.
Last edited by F-BIRD'88; Jan 5, 2008 at 01:32 PM.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 6,111
Likes: 53
From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
Re: Cam advice..help
Is this a used cam that is "up for sale"? If so, buy a new cam and lifters for your motor like one of the ones I recomended. Reusing a used flat tappet cam
is a very risky thing only the cam came out of your motor and you kept the lifters in exact order and all the lobes and lifters show no wear.
Buy a new cam and lifter set for your motor. Pick one of cams I suggested and work with it.
Why not try the 246-246-.510-.510 hyd cam you have now? Then you'll have some base line to compare against a "nitrous cam" to see if its working better for you.
If you want to make your present cam more "nitrous friendly", and see how that works by testing at the track, you can degree the cam and advance it a bit to a 102 deg intake C/L. This changes the valve timing events. Advancing the cam in the motor a bit more causes the exhaust valve to open sooner which helps get the extra amount of exhaust gas out of the motor when on the juice.
By experimenting withe the cam advance and testing while running on the bottle you'll optimize the performance of the combo you have now and get a good idea of what the motor responds to. The ET slip(s) will clearly indicate when you've made a tuning improvement. try it.
Last edited by F-BIRD'88; Jan 6, 2008 at 04:01 AM.
Re: Cam advice..help
Would make a good N/A bracket racing, hot street strip cam, but the tight LSA is not the best for enhancing power while on the juice.
Is this a used cam that is "up for sale"? If so, buy a new cam and lifters for your motor like one of the ones I recomended. Reusing a used flat tappet cam
is a very risky thing only the cam came out of your motor and you kept the lifters in exact order and all the lobes and lifters show no wear.
Buy a new cam and lifter set for your motor. Pick one of cams I suggested and work with it.
Why not try the 246-246-.510-.510 hyd cam you have now? Then you'll have some base line to compare against a "nitrous cam" to see if its working better for you.
Is this a used cam that is "up for sale"? If so, buy a new cam and lifters for your motor like one of the ones I recomended. Reusing a used flat tappet cam
is a very risky thing only the cam came out of your motor and you kept the lifters in exact order and all the lobes and lifters show no wear.
Buy a new cam and lifter set for your motor. Pick one of cams I suggested and work with it.
Why not try the 246-246-.510-.510 hyd cam you have now? Then you'll have some base line to compare against a "nitrous cam" to see if its working better for you.
thnx alot guys
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