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OK I got a knocking problem...

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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 05:26 AM
  #1  
86projectZ's Avatar
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From: Vancouver
Car: 86 Camaro Sport Coupe
Engine: 305 V8 4bbl
Transmission: AT/overdrive
Axle/Gears: stock
OK I got a knocking problem...

Ok Ill be honest I was hot rodding the camaro around the other night...and something bad happened....

After sliding around a few corners... something happened and this LOUD annoying knocking sound is coming from the engine-driver side. Is sounds like an engine does when its low on oil, but much louder. It starts ok, I got it home fine and no idling problems, but that annoying loud knock can't be good.

Whats goin on here? Valve? Pushrod? And can I do this myself, or is a shop gonna charge me a ton on this one? HELP????
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 03:00 PM
  #2  
onebad89RS's Avatar
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 186
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From: waterford, MI
Car: 89 RS
Engine: 305 carbed
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 auburn posi
Re: OK I got a knocking problem...

chances are bad rod bearing or main bearing. only one sure way to fin out is to pull the oil pan off and wiggle all the rod caps. there should be no play in them at all. as for cost yea your looking at big bucks if you have a shop repair it.
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Old Jan 10, 2008 | 07:56 PM
  #3  
ljnowell's Avatar
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Re: OK I got a knocking problem...

Originally Posted by onebad89RS
chances are bad rod bearing or main bearing. only one sure way to fin out is to pull the oil pan off and wiggle all the rod caps. there should be no play in them at all. as for cost yea your looking at big bucks if you have a shop repair it.
If it were me, i think I would use a stethoscope and pinpoint the noise as closely as possible. I would probably still take off the valve cover and inspect under it anyway. Both are much easier and faster than pulling the oil pan. Checking oil pressure is another good idea, as most bearing failures will affect it.
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Old Jan 11, 2008 | 01:32 AM
  #4  
86projectZ's Avatar
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From: Vancouver
Car: 86 Camaro Sport Coupe
Engine: 305 V8 4bbl
Transmission: AT/overdrive
Axle/Gears: stock
Re: OK I got a knocking problem...

Me and a buddy were thinkin it may be rod knock.... I can get to the pushrods underneath the valve covers right? Just take it off, remove the nut on top of the rocker, remove the arm and pull out the rod? Im asking cuz I usually don't have to deal with internal engine parts like this and am a lil unfamiliar
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Old Jan 11, 2008 | 04:58 AM
  #5  
Fldopp16's Avatar
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From: Cleveland, OH
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Re: OK I got a knocking problem...

My best honest advice to you is to just pull the engine and drop a new one.(used from boneyard) A rod knock is pretty much a death sentence for a motor, and unless you have the materials and knowhow to rebuild the thing, it's just a lot easier to drop another engine.

I know what you're thinking. It sounds like a tough job, and it can be, but if I can do it, ANYONE can. My IROC-Z developed a knock a couple months after I bought it, and I didn't know a damned thing about cars, mechanics, or even the tools I was about to use when I set out to do the job. I learned because I had to, and it didn't take long for me to become acclaimated. There are a lot of good people here on Thirdgen.org who would be willing to guide you through the process, and if you need a step-by-step instruction, I wouldn't mind helping you out with that.

Realistically speaking, the whole thing shouldn't cost you a whole lot. Most chevy 305's for our year cars go from about 250-400 dollars; the cheap ones are either high mileage or come in longblock form. Since you have an intake/fuel setup, there's no need to purchase that all again, so there's no reason you should have to pay over 350 bucks for a new engine. You'll also need an engine hoist, but those are pretty much a dime a dozen. I've seen them on craigslist for as low as 50 bucks at times. If you think this is costly, keep in mind what a mechanic would charge for this.


I wouldn't waste my time trying to find out what went wrong, because odds are that your engine is destroyed. Check your oil for metal flakes and make CERTAIN that it is, indeed, a rod knock. Also keep in mind that even repairing the bearing won't do you any good if the cylinder walls have been torn up, or if you've mangled up your crankshaft, or if you've caused any other kind of collateral damage. Don't fear the engine swap, it's one of the best ways to learn about these cars.
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Old Jan 11, 2008 | 12:52 PM
  #6  
IROC212's Avatar
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From: New York City
Car: 1986 IROC
Engine: 355 Tpi
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 3.27
Re: OK I got a knocking problem...

Agreed, if it's a loud heavy knocking sound, the engine is kicked. It's not very hard to do, just time consuming. In my opinion, it's almost easier to pull the motor, than trying to pull the oil pan with the motor in the car.
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Old Jan 12, 2008 | 01:20 AM
  #7  
86projectZ's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 36
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From: Vancouver
Car: 86 Camaro Sport Coupe
Engine: 305 V8 4bbl
Transmission: AT/overdrive
Axle/Gears: stock
Re: OK I got a knocking problem...

Yea you guys were right-

I had a Chevy dealership run a diagnostic on it just to make sure.. and it IS a rod knock. Internal engine problem, and basically NO OIL PRESSURE! The
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Yea you guys were right-

I had a Chevy dealership run a diagnostic on it just to make sure.. and it IS a rod knock. Internal engine problem, and basically NO OIL PRESSURE! The engine's toast. They want about $5000 to fix it-and since I bought the car for just over $1500, theres no way Im gonna have them repair it. Well Im gonna go out and get me a new truck(like I been wanting...silverado probably) and keep the camaro as a project because I dont see a dealership giving me hardly anything for a car with the engine about to die. Im thinkin Ill drop a 350 crate into her, and build it from there.


Damn Im gonna miss that thing....my first car was an 89RS camaro, so an 86 isn't much different-it feels the same as when I first got my license drivin around at 16....I dont care Ill try to keep it around THIRD GENS KICK ***!

Last edited by 86projectZ; Jan 12, 2008 at 01:25 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Jan 12, 2008 | 08:32 AM
  #8  
82Five-O's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 291
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From: Fort Worth, TX
Car: 82 Sport coupe
Engine: 355 semi roller
Transmission: TH-350 B&M ratchet shifter
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Eaton Posi
Re: OK I got a knocking problem...

Originally Posted by 86projectZ
Me and a buddy were thinkin it may be rod knock.... I can get to the pushrods underneath the valve covers right? Just take it off, remove the nut on top of the rocker, remove the arm and pull out the rod? Im asking cuz I usually don't have to deal with internal engine parts like this and am a lil unfamiliar
Wrong rods pal... sorry
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Old Jan 12, 2008 | 10:13 PM
  #9  
86projectZ's Avatar
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Junior Member
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 36
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From: Vancouver
Car: 86 Camaro Sport Coupe
Engine: 305 V8 4bbl
Transmission: AT/overdrive
Axle/Gears: stock
Re: OK I got a knocking problem...

Yeah I figured that out at the dealership diagnostic center. What made me think it was that was that it had the same rythem as a low-oil tick from a lifer(?)... but a connecting rod probably would too. Well damn Ill probably keep it as a project and do a 350 crate... but not sure yet. just gotta get another car- im thinkin a silverado
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Old Mar 8, 2013 | 03:29 PM
  #10  
ChiCamaro86's Avatar
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Re: OK I got a knocking problem...

I am having similar issues on my 86. I bought it for 1500 from a younger guy and it was running fine for a few weeks too what sold me is that he claimed it as a 1970 LT1 which are few and far between so I bought it out of impulse but upon taking it to a local mechanic who specializes in muscle cars he had told me the engine is completely shot and it will cost me 3000 to rebuild it. is it even worth it or do I cut my losses and sell it as a project to someone? I have been looking for new motors on craigslist they arent that expensive but would be very time consuming especially considering I have never done such a job and wouldnt want to mess it up help me out guys! should i sell it as is? buy a used motor? or just rebuild the current supposed LT1?
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