Ok it's time for an upgrade. I would honestly like to be in the low 12's. Right now I just have a bolt on L98. It has 70,xxx miles and runs great. I still have the 2.77 9 bolt rear (I know it has to go).

Anyway, I am just looking for a good combination I can slap on that I know is going to work well. My problem is, I would like to have a decent sized cam (I LOVE the sound of a cammed car). But after researching here (yes I searched ) it appears the larger the cam = the higher rpm HP. And we all know TPI doesn't like that.

So I was thinking of buying the BBK intake since it is a direct bolt on. I really don't want to bother modifying my stock fuel lines like I would have to with the HSR. But lets say the BBK intake isn't released by summer. Is there a combination that will work with the TPI (even though it may be pushing the limits of the TPI), and also work well with the BBK intake?


I was thinking AFR heads, but I've been hearing the stock valve covers will leak with them? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

I replaced my valve covers when I did the H/C swap and I have not had any leaks

 

low 12's and keeping the TPI is going to be challenging to say the least...you can get the best cam/head package in the world but the tpi induction is going to be a bottle neck when the motor wants to breathe.

 

Honestly man, from what I have come up with, Heads, mild cam, 1.6roller rockers, and the HSR intake, plus a good air filter and full exhaust. That's what I am going with.

 

Anyone have any head/cam combinations to suggest? I'm novice when it comes to picking these out. I don't want to go too big or small.

 

Keeping the TPI still?

 

I'm planning on keeping it until the BBK intake is released.

 

Shoot for 13's first. Heads and cam will not guarentee a 12 sec car. Best I've run was a 12.6 with 367RWHP in the Formula. When ya get 12's that gets boring as well. Trust me lol.

 

whats the rpm range of the bbk intake? is it to 5500 rpms?

maybe you could get away with getting some siamesed SLP runners for now and use that with your stock TPI base. Then when BBK is out, sell off the TPI stuff. You'll regain some of the money.

Like you know, TPI isnt a high rpm revver It doesnt need much of a cam, something like the comp 502 which is 218/224. With a good siamesed setup tho, you can get the bigger 503 grind. 503 grind will love a siamesed base/runner TPI setup. it will make power to 5200 and flatline that hp to 5500 with a siamesed setup givin you a wide powerband up top and ability to play with different shift points for best ET. Then when you go BBK, the extra breathing room will make big hp gains from 5200-5500+ with that 503 cam.

Plus it will give you some lope. if you want more, get it on a 110 lsa instead of a 112. It will require more time tuning the extra overlap but its very maneagble with MAF. It will sound bad ***, yet not be an over revver.

else you can try the 502 cam on a 110 or tighter LSA and give you lope yet only rev out to 5200 rpms. works great for stock TPI.

For heads, i'd go with something in the 180-190 range. i think AFR 195's would be abit much for a mild TPI and much better for HSR/BBK etc. siamesed setup with aftermarket or ported stock base could get away with the AFR 195 heads. As far as valve cover sealing...i mounted the valve covers to my AFR heads i got laying around and they seeem fine. I just ordered these heads a month ago so they are a fresh batch i guess. All the problems i have heard were from earlier productions like late 06-early 07 whenever the eliminators came out.

AFR180's are good heads for TPI since they keep port velocity up high. works better for smaller cams and long runner intakes like TPI. BBK/HSR could make good power with them too tho, so all in all, 180cc heads could be the ticket if your looking to keep a cam in the 218-224 duration range.

HSR fuel line mods are not hard to do. rather easy. Can be done for under 100 bucks. I can give you the parts and measurements for the stuff i used for my car. Just another option if you dont wanna wait for BBK.


You dont need a lot of power to go mid 12's or so. 300whp will do it if you have the gear/chassis/stall mods needed. I went 12.90's with HSR bolt on L98. stock heads/stock cam so it can be done. that was only 254 whp. 2800stall/3.42 gears and full bolt on suspension with adjustable shocks, adjustable torque arm and LCA brackets really help

 

Wanna go 12's??ATI procharger will do it on a stock engine with slicks, no problem........Mines not stock anymore at all, but does 10.60's with full street trim, aka...a/c, o/d trans, 3000 stall, stereo, no vehicle lightening at all.......This was on some of the first test & tunes and car should get better as we begin to dial it in this season. Just have to remember to shut off my a/c before a trip down the 1/4!!!!LOL!

 

just get a nice polished procharger, gears, stall, tranny kit. and the proper suspension and youll be loving 12's.
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oh, sorry i just noticed that you already have youre tranny done..

 

and dont forget headers.

 

Thanks for all the replies guys. Much appreciated!

"I think AFR 195's would be abit much for a mild TPI and much better for HSR/BBK etc."


I think I'm just going to suck it up and wait for the BBK or do the HSR. I think I'd rather do the intake/heads/cam all at once and do it right. What are some other things I would need to purchase when doing this?

 

Its easier that way. heads/intake/cam all at once makes the job that much easier.

Depending on what your budget is, you can get 12's with not much invested or you can spend alot more to get the same end means. 12 second slips can be had with under 300whp or upwards of 400whp, it just depends on the chassis mods and how well you launch.

A quick budget setup would be vortec heads, Lt4 hotcam you can get used for 100-130 bucks, vortec HSR. that will knock down mid 12's all day long with 2800 stall/3.27-3.70 gears.

Or go with a new custom grind cam, HSR/BBK, AFR/Trickflow heads or others in that 1200 up price range. You can get the same ends...12's.

Decide what you want to spend and go from there. Most aftermarket heads have springs which will control most cams. AFR valve springs are really decent springs. Trick flow's big dual spring is good too, i just like AFR's lighter smaller components for better high rpm stability

Other things to buy may include new pushrods, injectors, throttle body, possible new headers to better match port sizes (i sold my hooker 2055's for bigger longtubes because they dont match the AFR ports well enough for my tastes). Look into some good rocker arms, i like the Magnums by Comp. You may want more gear...3.27 or 3.70s.

With the right combo tho, you can get 12's with 2.77's, just gonna be abit harder and require more hp, better parts, etc. Need a good converter. I'd say atleast 2800 stall for most combos for 12's. some may want 3200 or so.

HSR stuff will require you to delete emissions aka EGR. Burn a chip for that to disable when you get it tuned or if you do the tuning yourself. Other than custom fuel lines for it, which is easy, thats about all the extra parts you will need.

Suspension mods/chassis mods will be needed for best drag racing performance off the line. good sticky tires too... drag radials or slicks/DOT slicks

Cam swap will need new timing chain. Inspect your roller lifters for wear, but at that mileage and if it was well kept which looks like it since your car is soooo clean, they should be fine. Can reuse stock timing chain cover if you want. Can reuse stock balancer too or else get a fresh stock style replacement.

If you do the swap yourself you will need some special tools, mainly a balancer puller that you can rent at Autozone or buy for like 15 bucks at most auto shops. Then you will need the balancer installer. You should degree the cam when you install it but you can get away without doing so. Timing crank gear puller/installer too when you put on a new timing set.

may look into getting new head bolts but not always necessary. get a crank snout socket so you can rotate the motor to get the timing dots aligned.





I think thats all you'll really need to do a intake/heads/cam swap.


Another thing to look into is most L98 blocks have the pistons .025" below engine deck surface. with aluminum heads and standard .039-.040" gaskets, the compression ratio will remain around 9-9.3 to 1 which is rather low. A small cam and small intake runner head like the AFR 180 will like that. But bigger cams with bigger heads will have problems, mainly lack of torque production down low. You should look into getting heads milled alittle bit, say 60 cc and run a thin gasket like the felpro 1010 i think it is which is rubber coated shim, or mr gasket .028" head gasket. that will seal well, and give you good quench height and decent compression

 

Hey, I really appreciate the time you're taking to help. I do have some suspension mods. Nitto 555r's (not on yet), LCA arms and relocation brackets. I see how your saying you can run 12's with 300 or 400 hp. But I'd rather do it with a higher trap (you never know when your going to run into those hondas on the highway ). But of course I still want plenty of torque.

I think I'm going to do the BBK intake. With the heads, I always heard good things about the AFR 195's. I see they are normally 65cc. Would I have to get the trickflows milled down also? Is there a certain part # I should be looking at for the trickflows?

I'd imagine the BBK is going to be good to around 5500. Any cam suggestions for that?

To be honest, I graduated last year and just landed a really good job. I'd have no problem dumping $3,000 into the car. But I think that's going to add up real fast with little things like timing chain, push rods, injectors (necessary?), rocker arms..etc Not to mention the bigger stuff, stall and gears. But I'm going to research and most likely buy what you guys suggest.

 

Do your research. I've been doing the same the last 2-3 months, designing/building every aspect of my 383 build. I'm going thru every little thing i can and acquiring parts as i go. I'm doing this build right and not trying to cut any corners. I'm goin custom grind billet core cam something i proby wont need but will make every last bit of hp and torque i can over off the shelf grinds. AFR elminators, fully forged shortblock, its gonna haul some tail but take some time to get the cash for at the moment

with that BBK intake it looks like it will support a 350 to 5500-5800 rpms or so. thats a good rpm range for a 224-ish duration cam like the comp 503, or GM/Crane 846 grind. There are many cams that will work tho.

I like AFR's over the trickflows at the moment as both are about the same price, but AFR has nicer features and probly flow more. AFR's use LS1 technology with lighter 8mm valve stems, smaller diameter valve springs that have high spring rates/pressure to control aggressive cams over 6000rpms. they are lighter to so it will help the motor rev and control the valves efficiently. You can run the modern high tech lobes like the XFI grinds from comp which are notorious for valve float. AFR's upgrade spring will handle it and i'm running them for my aggressive custom grind that i will be getting somewhat soon.

Trickflow is nice too tho, quality components but they have the larger dual spring, 1.437 diameter as opposed to AFR's 1.29's or 1.27's. Not a big deal if you run a cam like the 503 cam or GM846 grinds and dont rev too much over 5800 where i think you may shift at depending on the cam and how that intake performs.

Either way its up to you on the heads. Personally i'd run AFR's with a new style cam like the XFI 218/224 or custom select the lobes and run the 224/230 combo. Lift is up near .570 which is where AFR/Trickflow heads like to flow. This is where AFR valve springs have an advantage in controlling that high lift with its great pressure and lighter components.

that 218 XFI cam is a hot combo right now. great match for AFR heads and 5500 rpm intakes like fully modded TPI or superram/BBK. even LT1 cars used it and made big numbers. it will work ok with low compression too. It will idle fairly stock tame like so thats a bummer, but it will make 340-350whp depending on tune/exhaust setup and get you down in the mid lower 12's.

But yeah cam and heads with the intake are the biggest price factors and then you need to add up all the little stuff.

 

Hate to bring this back from the dead, but I've been trying to pick out tires and the 16 inch selection is getting slim.One of my choices is the nitto's 555r but was wondering how they perform on upstate NY roads (if you have them on yet),also did you order them on line or get them locale and if you did get them from around here what did you pay if you don't mind me asking? And on your 12 second car what about spray?

 

I don't have them yet, but I know plenty of people that do. They all say it's a great street tire, but not the greatest at the track. But I'm sure it's better than any normal street tire at the track. As long as there is decent tread on the tire, I'm told they do fine in the rain.


Still waiting on that BBK intake...