hey guys.
i've got an 84 t/a L69 HO. can u tell me what accel dist i need. i just want a stock replacement,but i want to get an accel. what do i have??
thanks.
jay.

 

59109, I think. Any particular reason you want Accel? They don't have the greatest reputation.

 

Also, DUI - p/n 12600, $285. http://www.performancedistributors.c...mputerdist.htm

Another question: Why do you think you need a different distributor? Aftermarket module and coil, along with new cap & rotor, will do the same thing.

 

i'm not stuck on accel. this motor will stay stock for awhile,so i wouldn't want to do anything less the A.C delco but i don't want to spend 300 on it when the h/p doesn't justify it.

what i want is a full tune up. plugs,wires, and i was just goin to get a cap and rotor but i saw on summit was a complete distr with coil. i want to advance my timming when i get my exhaust done. but i don't know anything about what this thing has.

can u guys tell me what i should get

 

Then you DEFINITELY don't want an Accel. Let alone a Summit branded one (which I'm not sure who makes it and puts the Summit name on it for them... I'd FOR SURE find that out before buying one).

I'd second the DUI recommendation, if you've just got to get another one. www.performancedistributors.com

A motor's HP output has NOTHING to do with how much its distributor costs. A better decision-making concern is why you wouldn't want to spend more to get one that won't leave you sitting by the side of the road.

Trust us, you do not want a cheeeeep distributor. Not a good idea to buy those from the low bidder. Kind of like what scares me about how nuclear power plants are bought... I think I'd want to use some other criterion as my "critical" decision parameter, besides "who's the cheeeeeepest".

I think we're all having trouble figuring out why you would want to just up and change the whole thing, if it's not broke. That won't really accomplish anything.

Change out the cap & rotor; leave the rest of it alone. If you REALLY REALLY REALLY want to change out other parts, get the better module and coil from the source above.

You advance the timing by loosening the bolt, turning the dist body SLIGHTLY CCW, and re-tightening the bolt. Pretty trivial. Nothing to get all worked up about "how" to do it, or waiting until you "get exhaust done".

What's wrong with the one that's there now?

 

ok. first off the one i was looking at is on summits site,not a summit brand. it was an accel. i don't always take the cheap way out. i believe in u get what u pay for.

and i don't even know how u got "a motor sout put has nothing to do with the cost of its distr." huh??? i don't want a cheap distr. thats why to me stock would be Bosh or A.C delco. i just said i didn't want to spend 300. or more at this point b/c its a stock motor.

i agree that changing the whole thing wouldn't accomplish much.
so i will just get a new cap,rotor,plugs and wires. i just wanted to know what u guys thought about it. thank you all.

i wasn't getting worked up about changing the timming. i can do that in my sleep. not sure how u got that i had a fear with that.

What's wrong with the one that's there now?[/QUOTE]
do u mean the exhaust??

the thing that is wrong with it, is that it is stock and sounds like shlt. i have hkr headers 2055 and a magnaflow cat with an slp test pipe so i can get rid of my cat. it will sound sweet.

so with that said. can i use an MSD cap and rotor in my stock distributor? also is this an H.E.I comp controlled car. thats what i'm not sure of.

 

I got it like this:If I missed something there, I apologize. But for some reason, this looks like you're proposing that there's some form of linkage between a motor's power output and the value/price of a distributor; which I was pointing out, is a fallacy. My bad.

Likewise, I failed to see a connection here:but I will FREELY admit I'm an idiot and a moron, so maybe I read too much into that? Sorry if I can't understand whatever was meant, I can only respond to the words that are written, I apologize for you if the words you wrote don't say what you meant but rather mean something else. I merely pointed out that (a) you can advance the timing any time you want, no need to wait, it's real easy; and (b) there's no linkage between exhaust and ignition timing (just like, there's none between between HP and dist price). That's all. I'm not trying to argue, just responding directly to the words you wrote.

Anyway, yeah, changing out the whole dist is not a real good bang-for-the-$$$ kind of proposition, on a stock motor. While a dist CAN go bad, by things like the bushings wearing out and such as that, that tends to produce noticeable symptoms, which if you don't have them, it's probably best to just change the "wear" parts like cap, rotor, plug wires, etc. If you're interested in a "hotter" ignition, then the aftermarket module & coil such as from Perf Dist will help. But for a stock motor, there's not alot of benefit there, unless you're having to buy one anyway because your existing one broke; in that case, then step up to a better one.

Yes you can use a MSD cap & rotor; that'd be a good choice in fact. Any cap & rotor with good quality insulating material, brass terminals, and a longer rotor tip than stock, would be good.Yes, it is. If you decide to change the module, it needs to be the 7-pin flavor (not the 4-pin).

 

Those distributors you were looking at in Summit were not computer HEI. The chances something is wrong with your current distributor that would require changing it are slim to none if the engine is in good shape - in other words, if the car has been neglected to the point the distributor needs to be replaced, the engine itself is going to be in much worse shape than the distributor.

 

thanks kid.
igot it cpu hei

 

i guess all this could have been avoided if i had said that i haven't had this that long. this my preventative maintanance routine of when i buy a car.
sorry for the confusion.
yeah,what i meant by spending $300. on an ignition its that it would make no sense to me to this hot a$$ ignition and a stock motor. that is something i would do if i had heads,cam,and intake.
and the only reason i stated waiting to do the timming when i do the exhaust had no real meaning,i was just thinking of it while i was writing.
so my bad on that. i didn't mean to make it confusing for either 1 of us. lol.

i want to advance the the timming. we have established that.lol but i want the motor running in tip-top shape. so a full tune up is def needed. the car needs it b/c i don't know when the last time it was that it had a tune up. so for me this is just what i do when i buy a used car. tune-up,belts,fluids,brakes,etc. it runs really smooth except for the massive exhaust leak comming out of my cat flange. the car has its original exhaust on it. so i figured what the hell,i'm gonna get a new exhaust.and while i'm at it i'll tune it up,bump the timming... yeah then she'llrun real nice. thats how it all came blurting out in my original post.
sorry man for all this b/s. i just missundrstood u and it was b/c of my own mis-typing.

 

Hi , I have GM computer controlled distributor with Accel super coil that was working fine and came out of my 85 trans-am LG4 engine after a swap if you're interested .

 

Replacing the distributor is kind of above and beyond preventative maintenance. The stock distributor is a mechanically robust piece, a new cap, coil, rotor and module are cheaper than a new distributor, and are all you should ever really need. If you feel like it, you could even shim the end-play out of it as an "upgrade".

 

thanks man. so,
what would shimming the end play out of do? where is it located and how do u do it. do u man the brass part on the rotor??
i found this msd coil cover at summit racing. is moving the coil from under the cap better for the HEI like they advertise? or is it bull *****?
what is the best coil,plugs,wires and size of wires, (ie- 8mm,8.5mm) for my current set-up,wich is no set-up,its a stock motor adn it will stay that way for now. so please help me all u O-B-ones.LOL
thanks again.
jay.

 

The shim would go at the bottom, between the gear and the housing.

Moving the coil isn't really of any benefit with the stock system, because the module doesn't drive the coil in such a way as to overheat it. An aftermarket box driving a stock coil is a different matter though; it's pretty easy to fry one that way. That's really what those "relocation" kits are good for.

For plugs, regular AC Delco ones are fine; or if you want to REALLY bite off, use the Rapid Fire ones. They won't really work any better but they will tend to last longer. Avoid the "gimmick" plugs like Split-Fire, multiplt-electrodes, etc; no benefit there.

I use the Taylor wires such as these. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rt=TAY%2D73051

 

In a stock distributor, there's a ton of slack between the distributor gear and the housing that lets the shaft move up and down. Because of the helical cut of the gears, as the shaft moves up and down, the timing can change by about 1 degree for every .010" or so of movement. On a stock distributor with about 1/6" of clearance, that's about 6 degrees of variability in timing. A set of shims is less than $10, and you stack them between the gear and housing until you've got between .010" and .020" of clearance.

 

cool.
thanks guys. can u guys tell me what is the most i can advance timming in this l69 motor. i would be switching to premium fuel. the best we have around here is 93 -94 octaine
also what kind of h/p gain is usually achieved when combined with a full exhaust? short tube header and 3" c/b with magnaflow muffler, k&n drop in filter.

plugs. i was gonna run bosch + 4's or delco's. the boschs' are only 5 buck each,so they are no to bad.
msd cap and rotor.
taylor wires. i've always like them for my harley.
thanks again,jay.

 

The best way to figure out how much advance you can run is by experimentation. Don't bother with premium, you don't have enough compression to need it. Stay away from the Bosch +4's too, they're nothing but trouble.

 

ok
i'll just run the AC delco plugs. i kind of figured it would be a trial and era for the timming. i'll find a sweet spot for it.
thanks.

 

Personally I spent 200$ at checkers today for MSD coil, MSD wires, some plugs and a MSD cap n rotor. The MSD wire set was fun setting up cuz I got to cut and install my own wires. Took about 2 hours. Performance boost was very noticable. I previously had Accel wires/capnrotor and a stock coil. Really better all around performance I'm STOKED!

 

i have decided since all this was discussed last that i am goin with all msd. i will be modding the motor some so i will do the ignition the way i want it.
thanks for the reply man.