important note: The engine is sitting in the middle of an ENTIRE garage of space. So i can get at it from any angle and its really very nice to work on. Only took an hour and change to slowly take it down to the block.


Today i stripped my engine (L98) down to the block, and lets first say that this is the cleanest 170k mile engine ive ever seen. Actually, It belonged to someone around here 2 owners ago. Anyone with a 88 GTA sell an engine with 166k miles a few years back?

Still though, it's a 170k mile engine. Though itd easily be safe to run another 10 grand on it, the timing chain should be replaced, and the main and rob bearings are starting to show some copper. Honestly, since its so easy to work on right now, it should have the gaskets and both bearings and timing chain replaced at the least. However, I am on a tight budget and this could run me up nearer to $200 for the good stuff IIRC. Not only that, but the cylinders are getting a ridge and some scarring that makes me think itll need bored to make good power and efficiency soon enough.

Now comes the tricky part. I had plans to make this a 383. This means the bore, all the bearings, the pistons, and anything that needs replaced except the chain would already be replaced. This is the cheapest and fastest way to do everything, and since the engine is in the middle of the garage, you just dont get easier than that. Saves pulling the engine out and dropping it in.

The problem? $$$. This paint ordeal is going to cut me anywhere from $1000 to nothing left. Its still hard to tell because we need to get the car inside and see just what needs painted and decide the color and crap like that. basically, $ is tight. Obviously if i had the dough, i'd drop it in as a 383 from the start. But i don't. So what do i do?

Rotating assembly. Since the engines apart and has basically infinite space to work with right now, dropping the 383 is ideal. However i will, even in the best case, not have the money for the top-of-the-line fully forged steel/aluminum parts. Forged crank, pistons, rods, flat top pistons, etc etc of the top kits run me between $1200 and $1600. BUT. I can get forged pistons and rods and a CAST steel crank for less. Between $600 and $1000. Obviously there is a strength lessening in the cast crank, but will it matter? Im looking at between 400 and 500 HP and 450 and 550 TQ at the crank. Is that enough to sheer a cast steel crank????? I know the blocks are good to roughly 750 - 800 HP before they crack, but i dont know how a good, balanced cast steel crank holds. I know the forged ones are good to insane numbers like 1300 HP, that ill never be running even if u handed me a million dollars, but the point was to make a bullet proof engine with no worries for the future. 1300HP safety is definitly safe.

So im just wondering what you guys think.

Cliffnotes
short on cash, cant waste $
engine torn to the block, needs some parts that will be close to $200
easy access to engine
How much HP can a cast steel crank handle?
Should i go for the cast crank and put it in now while its easy rather than waste the $200 and then go forged later???


also, key note, since the bearings and chain and such are $200, if i go with the cast crank, then thats at the highest price, about 1/4th of my 383 setup wasted.



VERY IMPORTANT QUESTION
Which is a better company for rotating assemblies, Eagle Specialty Products or Scat? Particularly their cast steel cranks.


note: do not count the machining neccessary for creating a 383 (30 over and some block machining for the 400 crank) as it is negligable with my fathers connections and favors owed.

Note2: Engine is a 1 piece rear main seal.


kit im seriously considering: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=ESP%2D13055L030&autoview=sku

also, im assuming cast steel > cast iron?