i went by my local race engine builder today to take a peek at how my motor was coming and i noticed he was using canfield heads, so i came home and started doing my research on them. i found a couple articles on different sites that mentioned special headers were required due to raised exhaust ports. i had decided on hooker 2210's but with this bit of doubt as to whether they will work, i figured i would turn to ya'll for a little advise.

 

I would say yes, I run 2210's on my edelbrocks with .100" raised exhaust runners.

I believe the canfields are the same? even if it were .250" raised, I could see room still, I have brand new motor mounts and all, my headers still have clearance under the car and against the engine and whatnot.

 

did your 2210's fit without any mods or did you have to do the typical notching the k-member, changing out starters, etc. that people have posted in the past when u do a search on this site

 

Can't really say, I started with a spohn k member and mini starter already, so those were issues I did not have to worry about.
I do think a mini starter regardless will help tremendously in an install however. I can see how a normal starter can interfere and be a pain.

I jacked up my car real high and slid them both in from underneath.

 

i wish i had a spohn k-member but i got to looking at what i would have to pull off to get that thing in and i'm not confident that i would be able to get it all back together, did u install yours or was it already there. would be nice, but looks complicated.

 

Everything I have done on my car has been done myself. A k-member is real easy with no motor in the car. The hardest part is the spring removal/install. Get a buddy to help you out and things can go real easy.
Only a few bolts from right under the car and that thing drops right down.

 

i am changing the original v6 with a 383, if i'm not mistaken don't the front springs need to be changed due to the weight difference. do you or anyone else reading this have any advise on replacement springs and struts for the change over. i dont want to lower the car any because i dont want any ground clearance issues, thanks.

 

I did v6-v8 on my 87. With the v6 springs installed in the front you couldnt even get a jack under the k member.

 

You could just purchase stock replacements from your local auto parts store for a z28.

 

yep the hookers will bolt to those heads and should cover up the exhaust ports.

Raise runner ports tho can create some clearance problems but sometimes can clear up some clearances The headers being raised up alittle may clear the k member better but maybe not...it will depend on the mounts you use and other little factors.

 

I thought the problem here was the same as the later bowtie heads, in that the mounting bolts were still in the same place, but the exhaust port has a higher roof, making it hard to cover. I may be mistaken though, I thought that was the problem here too.

 

there is no problem yet, i was just making sure there wasn't any problems before i buy them(headers), talking about springs and struts again, do you have to change out both the springs and the struts, or just one or the other to get the height back up to normal with the extra weight of the engine.

 

I would do both since your under their already.

 

I'm not so sure the Canfield's have raised exhaust ports. Where did you read that? I'm not saying they're not, I just haven't seen it anywhere. If you go to their website, go to the size heads you have, and click on 'instructions.'
I'll copy and paste a little bit off that page....

"Exhaust ports are in stock location. Heads are machined for standard bolt pattern. Use Fel-Pro # 1406 or comparable gaskets."

It looks like the Ford heads have raised exhaust ports though.

 

why would they raise the port but not the bolt holes? i dont know anyone making headers for that style

I know my AFR's have a raised exhaust port but the mounting holes are also raised up, so the headers bolt on just fine

 

i'll be damned, i went back into my history file to see what sites i had visited looking at canfield info and it was a canfield head for a ford that they were talking about on that site, good call iceman02.

quick question off subect: bought 8 point roll bar, had a friend that was gonna weld it for me and now he is backing out, what would yall think a decent labor wage would be for this at a typical weld shop(car completely gutted)

 

i was quoted 700$ for a complete install with the car gutted

 

man i was hoping to hear something a little less than that, what is md(maryland)? your above that invisible line that separates the yankees from the southerners, maybe it cost more up there- i hope.

 

if you deliver the car gutted, my shops around me do that for 300 bucks

generally a whole cage is 100 bucks a point for them to MAKE one and install it. Thats 800 bucks for a installed custom made 8pt cage

I would NEVER pay 700 for a weld job, but 700 would be great price for a custom fabricated and installed 8pt cage

 

now that's what i'm talking about, i'm towing the car over tomorrow to the same weld shop that did the rack for plumbing truck, i figure if i'm gonna catch a break from anyone it's gonna be him, i would be very pleased if he only charged 300-400 dollars.

 

Hey Jeff, are you using the Canfield 220s or 195s? Just curious. I still haven't installed my 195's I bought from TraviZ. How about the angle plugs with the 2210s? I sold my SLP headers because they wouldn't fit my canfield angle plugs.

 

Hey iceman, Havnt installed them yet eh?
should PM me your engine build, I would like to know how it goes.

 

yea, i meant withe the cage being hand made for 700$ , i missed the part that you already had an 8pt cage, i would think 300$-400$ to just weld it