So I finally got this car running, and the day after I got it home, I started it up and oil was gushing out of it from somewhere. I now know where it's coming from, but I'm not sure what it is exactly. There's a picture attached of where the oil is coming from. I looked through my shop manual and can't identify the part. The oil is coming from the seal in the picture. Thanks for any help.

 

it's an adapter for an oil cooler . should be an easy enough fix . remove oil filter , remove center bolt on housing , replace seal . good luck . good time to replace hoses and clamps also .

 

I had the filter off, and I saw the center bolt. So once that's off, the whole adaptor drops off of the block? That adaptor isn't stock, is it?

 

It could be stock. Its a 350 isn't it? Many 350's left the factory with an oil cooler.

 

What Tom said. That's the adapter for the oil cooler, it's probably stock. Just be sure that the leak is coming from that seal and not the sending unit above it before you go to all the trouble to remove the adapter.

 

Well, when I had the car in the air and started it, the oil was just hemhorraging out of the gap between the two, where the arrows are. I figured it was the seal. How would I tell if it's the seal or the sending unit? Also, I have been trying to find the seals to replace them, but I can only find a filter-to-adapter seal, not adapter-to-block seal. Does that seal come with a new adapter?

 

Sounds like you're already sure that it's coming from the seal. A "filter to adapter" seal? That sounds like what comes pre-attached to the oil filter.

The service manual calls it an "engine oil cooler gasket".

 

Now would also be a GREAT time to get rid of that orange thing you have on there that's not a filter, but rather just a "filter shaped object", before it comes apart and you have to clean all the pieces of it out of the oil passages in your block.

 

Well, I called the GM dealer to ask for a part #, he gave me one. I asked which one it was, and he said filter-to-adapter, which I guess would be redundant since the oil filter has it's own already. I think I may need to get a new adapter to get the upper seal...unless someone knows the part # for just the upper seal.

 

If you're referring to it being the short filter, I haven't been able to find the larger sized filter; part #? Or is it a brand thing?

 

Ha! Its a brand thing. Might want to step up to a quality oil filter. I personally prefer WIX or Mobil 1.

Dave

 

Right: it's the brand.

That brand is the LOWEST OF THE LOW as far as the build quality on the market. Far and away the loser of any comparison you can think of.

There are actually only a handful of mfrs of oil filters. Most of the parts-store brands and other such, are private-labelled Wix, Purolator, or Champion (not the spark plug company) products. IIRC the Mobil1 is a Champion product but I could be wrong about that. It's a re-brand, that's for sure; where they specified some synthetic filter medium. But all the other parts - end plate, bypass valve, shell, etc. - are the same as the others from that company.

Google "oil filter test" and see what you come up with. If that comes up with a site with "minimopar" in it, that's one you want to look at. You'll never put one of those orange things on your car again.

 

Thanks for the tips guys, never thought about it too much I guess. I've used Fram on other cars, but nothing with the same motor/power as the T/A. Advice well taken. About the larger filters though, the car had a larger NAPA on it, but I can't find them. Any benefits with the larger filters? If so, any brands/part # for me? The books all reference the shorter ones.

 

I beleive that NAPA uses Wix as their house brand.

 

Not only is that an oil cooler, it is an oil heater. When you first start, it helps bring the oil temp up to coolant temp. Helps with sludge and water.

It is a real good option for a DD.

 

So I pulled it apart today (in the middle of a snow storm) and it turns out the oil filter adapter is cracked...completely useless. Looks like the guy who had it before me over torqued the two bolts holding it in place. Also, the center nut/bolt that holds the cooler to the block was relatively loose. I think both contributed to the massive leak. Anyway, I'm waiting for the new adapter to arrive, but does anyone know the torque each bolt is supposed to be set to (center and two outer)? I browsed through my manuals and the internet and can't find those parts specifically listed. I don't want to have to do this again. Thanks.

 

Straight from my 90 Camaro FSM

Oil Filter Adapter Bolt - 18 lb ft
Engine Oil Cooler Retainer - 17 lb ft

 

Thanks alot.

 

Hey 87GTAj

I took a look at your photo - if you are doing adapter replacement
replace those two bulging rubber hoses as well. They look like that had a few miles on them and most likely they are made from a wrong material. I would get SAE 30R9 (or better) rated hose which can handle up 150 PSI. The stuff that you have there is probably is 30R7 which is only rated to 50 PSI. Add heat and near proximity to exhaust manifold - need I say more. Also, get EFI style clamps which will not dig into hose as regular ones do.

BTW this is a good read:

http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar...ers/index.html

//RF

 

Those hoses have coolant in them, not oil, so use a good radiator/heater hose.

At least mine does.

 

Right: the stock oil warmer in these cars, carries coolant to the filter adapter; not oil to some external device. Those hoses are basically the same thing as heater hoses.

 

Oups on my part - I was thinking of something else. Still having a coolunt leak next to NBO is not a good thing. NBO sprayed with anti freeze do not fare well.


//RF

 

Already checked that site out; picked up a Purolator Pure One. Never going Fram again, that's for sure.

Yep, found that out the hard way as I was taking it apart. I've got some Goodyear hose on them now.