My 91 RS has been starting intermittently. When it does start it fires right up, when it doesn't get one single click (solenoid?). The "Security" light in the instrumnet cluster comes on when I turn the key. Can't remember if it used to come on with the other idiot lights or not. I think I may have a VATS problem. Anyone know what my next step is?

 

If the "security" light comes on for a couple of seconds when you first turn the key on, then goes off, it's functioning normally. If it comes on and stays on, then you have a VATS problem. The most common VATS problem is the 2 little wires running to the key cylinder in the column start to break inside the insulation since they rotate slightly every time the key cylinder is turned. This will cause intermittent starts since it interrupts the voltage signal running to the VATS decoder box. The cheapest and easiest solution to this problem is to remove the original VATS cylinder from the steering column, repair the wires, shove your original key with the chip back in it, plug it back in at the base of the steering column, and just tuck it up under the driver's side hush panel somewhere. Then go to the parts store and buy a much cheaper, non-VATS key cylinder to put back in the column. If you ask them for an 88 or older key cylinder, it should be non-VATS, and they fit right in place of the original one. I tried repairing the wires on mine and putting it back in the column, and they ended up breaking again in less than a month. You can also buy a VATS bypass module from tpiparts.net for about $40, but replacing the VATS cylinder with a standard one only cost me about $12 at the local parts store, and I haven't had a problem with it since.

 

I just bought an 88 Firebird and I'm having the loose steering column problem. While I was tearing the column down I noticed mine was unplugged, and in the underdash wiring there is a resistor soldered in. I also noticed that the ignition wires for the VATS are severely damaged (but the car runs). The guy I bought it from mentioned some VATS issues, so I did some research. Do a search for VATS bypass on thirdgen and a tech article pops up first. Looks like if you can use a multi-meter and have a soldering iron you could bypass it for about 35 cents and a trip to radioshack.

 

had similar problems in a 92, soldered a variable resistor across the two wires, problem solved, I used a variable so it would exact match the key. if you use a non variable use a gold stripe limit tolerance problems with temperature. and if you suspect your key has a problem, then measure it then use the closest value from the vats table instead of the key value, also worst case scenario you could try all the vats values but that would take some time as the security does time lockouts i belive

 

I already fixed this about two weeks ago. The tech article about using a resistor worked exactly as advertised. I used no variable resistor, 4 of the in series to get teh exact value. Are you saying you had problems with the bypass not working in some temp condition. Is that when it was hot or cold out?

 

resistors lose value with the heat they produce, its either a 5% loss or a 10% loss depending on the value of the resistor you purchased, you know loss value based on the last color band, so on a really hot day, depending where you live, and considering its under that dash you just never know, i went with one low loss variable just to elimate any problems. however your vats system has a tolerence value built in as this is know as how resistors work.

 

My VATS stopped working last summer, got worse and worse.

I just put a resistor in line with the circuit - no more problems, and I havent had any since. At least with the VATS anyway.

 

Today I got my new ignition lock cylinder with VATS and new keys.
Will change them today and see if it starts better...

When I turn the key the starter clicks one (1) time and the security light is OFF so the vats is working (but there may be an mad ignition cylinder)...

If I jiggle the key back and forth it will start so It has to be the ignition lock cylinder.. or what to you guys think ?

 

Couldnt change the ignition lock cylinder today, have to order an Steering wheel disambly tool... for $12..

Will get back with some info about my change and see if it gets any better..

EDIT: Is there any other tool I need ? in the haynes manual it says I need an lock plate depressor tool is that tool really necessary ?! because I dont think I can get it in Sweden... And the car has to be ready in about ~10days..

Will I do fine with only the puller tool (Steering wheel disambly tool).
Please help me out.

 

you can do it without the lock plate tool, but it isn't as easy.
you'll need to push the lock plate down & hold it down. a long screw driver against your chest & the lock plate will do that. while your holding the plate down, you remove the retaining clip. a small pick & a small flat head screw driver is what i use.

in the third picture here,
http://www.chevyasylum.com/column/tiltcol.html
it shows the lock plate & the retainer laying on the table.
the second picture shows the tool for depressing the lock plate.

 

That lockplate tool is worth every penny. Before I bought one, my thumbs would be completely white from holding the plate down while I fought with the snap ring. It's a cinch to do with the tool. I got mine at Harbor Freight for like 5 or 6 bucks.

 

Maybe I need to search even more for that tool over here then. It look real hard to remove it without the lockplate tool.. Thanks for the response will call some more stores at monday when they open again.

Thanks again.

 

Hee, hee. I feel your pain. I've never used the tool. Does anybody have the part number for new thumbs?

Here's a suggestion: Let's not pull the wheel but once.
If it's a tilt wheel, check the other wear items while you're in there. Like the "my headlights won't dim when the wheel is down" problem and turn signal won't cancel sometimes problem.
Your problem sounds like it may be the ignition switch or wear in the rod that activates it.

 

Ive already changed my Ignition switch, I changed it in febraury.. and I can see that the metalpin is moving good and making contact... the connecting rod looked real good when I changed the ignition switch.

But if I jiggle the key the buzzer stops beeping because its loosing connection, the hole ignition lock is loose I can jiggle it up and down like 3-4mm... It seems like it done...

My turning signal, warningligt and so works fine, never had a problem with thoose things, just the starting part in the end..

Will go to the garage now, will get back later with info from tonight..