Solidium Rectifier
Thread Starter
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Car: '87 Iroc camaro
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Solidium Rectifier
My car was running kind of rough and wouldnt start at times. I changed the Solidium Rectifier to see if it would help. I dont know what to do now it won't start at all. I put the old one back in and it still didnt run. Would appreciate some advice.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,091
Likes: 1
From: West Central Ohio
Car: 86 vette
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.07
Re: Solidium Rectifier
Solidium Rectifier? What is this and where did you find it?
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,801
Likes: 21
From: Rochester NY
Car: 1984 z28
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: Moser 9" 4.11
Re: Solidium Rectifier
Are you sure you bought a camamro from earth ?? Maybe you need to check the antigravity device on top of the motor and see if thats working.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Car: '87 Iroc camaro
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Re: Solidium Rectifier
alright well ya see the Solidium Rectifier is a special sensor. i dont know wat it does but i know its a sensor. my local mechanic told me to get an old one from my tv...Solidium Rectifier is used on tvs...there is not such thing on a camaro...any car. i jus had to see the replys i would get. Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,141
Likes: 2
From: MA
Car: '87 IROC/'68 SS
Engine: 5.7L/350
Transmission: 700R4/Muncie 4-spd
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt / 3.31 12 bolt
Re: Solidium Rectifier
It's a selenium rectifier. The precursor to the modern silicon rectifier that's in your alternator among other places. :-)
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 45
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Hopefully you used a left handed screwdriver and metric crescent wrench to change it; standard tools can damage it during installation. Better keep a wire stretcher handy as well in case the new one doesn't line up exactly like the original.
Be aware that when this thing goes bad it can take the muffler bearing with it, so keep an eye out on it so you don't get stranded when least convenient.
Electronics run on smoke, which can be intimidating to the uninitiated. But, as long as you don't let the smoke out, you can expect many happy motoring miles.
Be aware that when this thing goes bad it can take the muffler bearing with it, so keep an eye out on it so you don't get stranded when least convenient.
Electronics run on smoke, which can be intimidating to the uninitiated. But, as long as you don't let the smoke out, you can expect many happy motoring miles.
Trending Topics
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,763
Likes: 4
From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Re: Solidium Rectifier
I love this forum so much.
While on the topic, your powerband might be bad, try to pick one up from a 'vette, they're faster.
Blinker fluid can be getting low, and check the piston return springs while you've got it apart
While on the topic, your powerband might be bad, try to pick one up from a 'vette, they're faster.
Blinker fluid can be getting low, and check the piston return springs while you've got it apart
Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 442
Likes: 0
From: oxford n.c.
Car: 1991 transam
Engine: 305 30 over long tubes into 3" y
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 4:10
Re: Solidium Rectifier
yeah, also you need a sky hook to gently lower it into place as not to touch the waddling pin or cannoodling valves,also put a dab of plutonium on the bottom to keep it from shorting out,laterjimmy
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,091
Likes: 1
From: West Central Ohio
Car: 86 vette
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.07
Re: Solidium Rectifier
Hopefully you used a left handed screwdriver and metric crescent wrench to change it; standard tools can damage it during installation. Better keep a wire stretcher handy as well in case the new one doesn't line up exactly like the original.
Be aware that when this thing goes bad it can take the muffler bearing with it, so keep an eye out on it so you don't get stranded when least convenient.
Electronics run on smoke, which can be intimidating to the uninitiated. But, as long as you don't let the smoke out, you can expect many happy motoring miles.
Be aware that when this thing goes bad it can take the muffler bearing with it, so keep an eye out on it so you don't get stranded when least convenient.
Electronics run on smoke, which can be intimidating to the uninitiated. But, as long as you don't let the smoke out, you can expect many happy motoring miles.
I have used the wire stretcher to build an intake fence, really helps with the #9 wire. Or just replace it all with a wing wassail.
But what about the floor mat clamp, that holds the muffler bearing in place, till the chow line can be stretched long enough to hold it?
As for the smoke, smoke testing is done all the time, but the older electric/electronics have more smoke in them then the new.
Also smoke testing gets used as a 1/4 mile performance indicator, but is not easily calibrated. When not properly calibrated the smoke test soon leads to knock sensor overload which requires a Ben Franklin upload to cure.
The real test, is of the "Blue Flame Generators".
This sometimes happens when parts pitching but practice makes perfect. (see upload above)
And everybody has lots of photon generators in their cars.
Can you figure out the agricultural conversation in all this.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post






