Does anyone know where I can get my TPI throttle body re-bushed?
It's got a lot of slop in it, and idling strange.

 

Just go buy a Holley, or a BBK. I love my BBK, I had to port my plenum to make it fit, but it is so nice.

 

It's a lowly little LB9. Got to be a stock TB.
Great idea though.
Ron

 

If you have a bench vise handy, you can re-bush it yourself. It's really no different than the shaft on a carburetor throttle body.

 

Does anyone sell a bushing kit, or would you try to fab a bigger shaft?
Thanks,
Ron

 

am I missing something here? that looks like a TBI plate. Or can you do the tpi shaft like that?

 

That's a quadrajet base.
They were the world's worst carb to wear out shaft.

 

Anybody know source for the bushings?

 

I have two stock throttle bodies that stick open. There's nothing like tpi torque to overpower your brakes. I used stock style carb springs to return the throttle on mine. I hooked one end on the a/c bracket and the other on the cruise tab. The throttle shaft has to come out to put new bushings in. There's more involed than a carb. One side has the tps arm. The other has the tv and throttle linkage. I was wondering if you could just tighen the spring by moving it another turn. I think TPIS, Turbocity, or other companies that mod stock throttle body do it. Summit has throttle bodies from 250. I was waiting to see if I go single plate or hsr before buying a throttle body.

 

The bushings are usually not a problem. They can be found even at better stocked hardware stores. The bigger challenge is finding an appropriate bushing driver. If you have access to a lathe, it's easy enough to make one. If not, there may be a bit more searching. The bushings can be 0.500 x 0.375 (1/2" x 3/8" and about 1/2" long. The worn hole would be sequentially drilled up to about 29/64", making sure you maintain the proper center (to prevent throttle shaft binding), then reamed to 0.500". The bushings are cut to length, driven into place, then finish reamed to 0.375" (3/8").

The TB shaft can be removed from the belcrank end, but you'll have to remove the TPS, then remove the clip from the shaft at that end. Pay attention to the spring arrangement on the bellcrank. If the shaft is slightly worn, it may have to be turned as it is removed. Just remove the throttle plate screws and slide the shaft out. Be very careful removing these screws, since they are lightly staked on the rear side to prevent them from falling out if they get loose (a screw in a cylinder would not be a good thing). Work the screws loose and lubricate them to prevent damage to the shaft. LocTite the screws and/or stake them back into place upon assembly, but only after the plates are properly aligned. Normally, bushing only the bellcrank end is sufficient, and sometimes both ends. The center bore typically doesn't require a bushing.