I have 3 clyinders left to do, Getting the valve stem O rings to sit in that 2nd groove is becomming more and more trouble some, I have the Valves up using the TDC method, if you want to call it that. Everytime I compress the spring, if use the O rings, the valve wants to move down and I cant get the keepers on even if the Spring is Squshed almost as much as it wants to compress. (Is that bad BTW? A spring has to compress! )

If I dont use the O rings, Would that have any ill effects?

Im using the felpro valve stem seals btw I forget the # off hand. Im using them on both the intake and exhaust.

LMK if anyone is running w.o the o rings.. Thanks.

 

Old engines (pre-65) didn't use them and adding a quart of oil every 300 miles was normal.
That was the reason that the gas station attendant popped your hood and checked your oil when you pulled in for a fill-up.
Well, that was a long time ago and your car shouldn't travel back in time unless it's a DeLorean.
You could use the "rope trick" if you're using the TDC method. (I use air method)
The rope trick:
Lower piston down from TDC.
Get some 1/4" nylon rope and feed about 3' into the sparkplug hole.
Turn the piston back up towards TDC until it binds the rope up into the valves.
Change seals.
Turn crank backward down away from TDC. (don't forget to do this)
Pull the rope out of the hole.

 

Yea. but arent the felpro postive seals so the O ring really isnt that important?

 

I thought orings were all you were using, like stock.
You're driving the felpro seals onto the valve guides, right?
Nobody uses orings any more.
They're discussed in this THREAD.

 

Yea man! Im using the blue viton Felpros on the valve guides.. They fit TIGHT!

Stock I had umbrellas on the exhaust w/ o rings, Postives on the intake w/ o rings.. Both crumbled in my hand, The O rings were just about missing. L03 BTW

Screw it! the remaining 3 clyinders wont get the O rings and Ill knock it out in 10x quicker than trying to get those things in the retainer.

Im also using the Intake seals on the exhaust side.

 

Ughh.. Well it seems that now this 305 will smoke when its started, Warm, Cold, Dont matter. Sometimes it does it, sometimes it does not..

What happened! Are these felpros junk? With my dried out seals it only smoked and ran rough when it was stone cold.

Im using 5w-40 Rotella T synthetic oil. I lubed all the valve seals in some left over Mobil 1 oil, Used the plastis sleave for the keeper grooves when installing, I even wacked all of them down lightly with a 13mm stocket

There is NO WAY the valve spring could be compressed so that It could hit the seal right?

 

If I were you, i'd remove the valve covers and see if you can see anything obvious. Rotate the engine over by hand a bit so you can see in all the springs. See if something is *amiss*.

If nothing obvious: I'd pull all the plugs. Any look different from the rest? If not, i'd clean them all, then put them in. Start the car, let it smoke. Rev it once or twice. Shut it off. Pull the plugs and find the oily ones. All 8, or only certain ones?
Go from there.

 

actually, I take it back. First thing i'd do is give it 3-4 days. You can't tell much from the first time you do anything, it might just be "seating in". I wouldn't make any rash decisions just yet. If it's doing the same thing in a few days i'd start troubleshooting.

 

Okay will do. I got about 50 miles on it now. Same deal. No smoke when driving, Just that 1 light puff when its warm. Not when its cold.

Thanks for the tips. It sucks that I have dampner springs so its a pain to see inside the springs.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku If I find out the seals are not working, Would those seals work on L03 heads? They are made for Vortec/Iron LT1 heads. Im not sure if the guide size is the same.. If anyone knows if they are. LMK

These SS72527 seals had to of been installed right, on straight, seated all the way. I have no idea what could of went wrong.