Ok i have been thinking and i really dont know how much power will make me happy? I will be getting a 350 made into a 383 stroker. They start up at 400 hp with free dyno testing (at a local performance shop). So 400 will give me mid 300 to the rear.

But i want to smoke alot of them kids in their stupid cars with all them body kits and stuff. I want to be able to beat them off the line and beat them with top end.

So will 400 to the rear make me happy or more?

thanks
kevin

 

yes and no.becuase there will be the ocasianal "sleeper" but there are also the normal cars with a exhaust and the think they're quick.how else are you going to make those numbers.wat other mods are going to be done to the car?

 

400 at the tire is what i'm shooting for... thats a mid high 11 second car easily when setup right

that will smoke ALOT of cars on the street out there

I think anywhere from 350-400 at the wheels will be alot for you to handle and you will enjoy it

 

I guess it depends on who you want to smoke. Around here, 200 hp at the wheels is gonna kill 99% of the people that wanna try and race. A 383 in just about any trim is gonna smoke all but the most modified Civics, Corolla's, etc.

If your competition is modded Mustangs or something, then you've gotta get more serious. But yeah, 400 at the wheels is more than most people I think can simply afford. Some have 400 at the flywheel, but only those who really are into modding the engine, or payed tons of money for something really expensive are gonna be getting that to the road.

Also think about your tires and suspension. It'd be a sad waste to have 400 hp shredding your tires as you sit still, while a 120 hp Civic farts its way by you.

 

no amount of suspension and tire will tame 400whp on the street thats why roll racing was invented so you take traction out of the game.

 

After you get used to the 400 hp, you'll want 500 lol. Whatever my car is putting out has been pretty fun. I don't street race but do once in a while just have to get in front of the other guy before the lanes merge

 

Yes i would like to beat the Gto's the new Gts and even keep up with the gt 500 and mabey the corvetts. I will have a good built up trans, and also a 3:73 posi. Then yes all the suspension and everything will come to. But ya some of my freinds are like wow an evo 8 i'm like that looks like crap it might be quick but i hate it. So i want to beat the fast stuff to. So mid to high 400?
thanks
kevin

 

You need to figure out what you want and what you can live with. A 350 RWHP car is darn fast and is still very streeatable (Good gas mileage and good street manors). A 400 RWHP car is starting to get more race orientated and less streetable. A 450 to 500 RWHP car will be very unstreetable (you can drive it on the street but it will get poor milage and be very rough) How much money do you want to spend? With 350 RWHP you will be on the edge of breaking transmission and rear end but it will probably hold together if you do not hook it too hard. Once you get 400 to 500 RWHP none of the stock parts will hold together in the transmission or rear end and you will have to upgrade.

To get 350 RWHP you will have to have more then 400 engine HP on a dyno because the engine dyno will be a gross rating and and it will not make 400 HP when installed in the car.

 

i would focus a little less on power and work on some other aspects of racing, such as suspension and possibly weight reduction.

if you have 400 hp and cant get it to hook from a stop, there is no point of having that much power.

i would definitely argue that good suspension is far better than an extra 20-30 HP as far ET and MPH goes.

in reality i agree that with 200-300 hp will beat 99% imports on the street.

another thing is that the higher you shoot, the less streetable it becomes. if its a DD, i wouldnt shoot too far past 400 at the flywheel.

 

Ok i think if i get between 380-420 to the rear i think i will be happy. But will that be able to beat the new GT's, new GTO's?
Now as far as money goes the engines start at 400hp for 4000. They are built with very good quality and range from 9:1 to 13:1 compression.

My freinds are big in the tuners stuff and i hate it! I just want them to shut up a little bit. But i mean its like everyone is into that crap now.

So i want to be able to beat most cars on the road ranging from the little kids to some big dogs and i think i can hold my own with around 400 to the rear.

What do you guys think?

thanks
kevin
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Also what will might 1/4 mile time be around with that power i want at least a 12 flat car. Will this do that for me?

 

unless you build a big inch small block or LSx motor, 450-500+whp will be rough on the street. It is possible to have a very tame 408 inch LSx based motor making near 500whp

380-420 will kill GTO's and new mustangs. In a 3400-3500lb car with you in it, you will beat most cammed LS1 cars as well, atleast keep up with them

 

Ok that what i want. About trying to make that power they dont seem to have a big deal about making that kinda power. The engines they sell now is 400 hp to 475 hp. It is a 350 made into a 383 stroker.
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thanks

 

How much hp will i get at the crank if i have 400 to the rear? I want 400 b/c the 6.0 GTOs are runnin 350.

 

i usually figure 20% lost with a automatic. 400hp gto will put down 330-340 at the wheels with a manual, which i like to say around 15% lost. 340whp on 400 hp ls2 is 15 % lost. So to make 400 you'll need close to 500hp on motor

if they can build a 383, get the best flowing heads you can get, a good intake and a fairly stout cam and it should make 475-500 hp and get you in the 380-400whp range

 

Thats what i want. Now they sell 400 hp for 4,000 how do you think they will sell what i want. Also is any of them parts that they are using bad?
thanks
kevin

 

dont use the iron eagle heads. you want something like Dart Pro 1's 200cc or Trickflow 195's or better yet, AFR 195's

 

I heard that they were pretty good set of heads what dont you like about them?
kevin

 

If you want that much power, why not just build a big block? If you want 400-450rwhp+ then don't f*ck around with little small blocks... go find yourself a 454, stroke it to a 496, and build that. That would be an EASY 400rwhp with just a mild cam and good compression ratio. Stock 781 large oval castings are cheap, and flow as well as the best aftermarket small block heads, and mild port work will make them MILES better than any SBC heads. It would still be fairly streetable too, much more so than any small block will be.

At that power level, a big block will also probably cost you less to build in the end, as cubic inches are the cheapest 'power adder' there is, so get as many as you can while you are still deciding what to build.

 

Yes i would like a big block but i would have to switch engine mounts and that crap. Now with the small block i can use the same water pump and just little stuff like that.
kevin

 

even 300 rwhp is prolli enuff to smoke pretty much everything on road

 

Iron eagles dont flow well for the port size. The price aint that much better than aluminum Pro 1's so you might as well upgrade to the better/lighter heads

 

Actually thats the beauty of the BBC... alot of the SBC stuff is the same, and just swaps right over... carb, engine mounts, distributor, accessories (ie. alt, PS, etc etc), transmission, and various other parts that don't immediately come to mind. Water pumps are cheap, like $30, which is nothing.

The only main issue for the BBC swap is the exhaust really, as its a tight fit and you need a set of headers for a BBC specifically for a 3rdgen chassis. There are sets out there though, Hooker and others make them. Everything else is fairly straightforward if you are already starting with a V8 car.

 

Man big block dose sound good but i can get a good deal with these guys just b/c they did my dads engine up big time so they said they will give me a good price. Thats cool that everything switches over i never knew that. Let me ask you how much hp will be good? I want like 380 to the rear so i'v been told by them you lose like 40 hp from the crank to the wheels. That would make 420 to the crank. Then i want enough power to also run a 11 sec 1/4 i dont care if its an 11.99 i just want to say i got an 11sec car.
thanks
kevin

 

Its not so much one set HP 'loss' number... its a percentage deal. The more your engine makes, the more you lose by the time it hits the street... with an automatic, typically 20-22% loss between the crank and tires. Manual trans is typically around 15%.

So.... 380 at the wheels is roughly 500-550 crank HP. Realistically, you could pretty easily do that with a stock rebuilt 454, with just a nice compression boost (up to about 9.5:1 or so), and a better intake/cam/exhaust. Stock crank, rods, heads, smaller 750cfm Holley or stock Qjet, and just basic cleanup machining on the block, crank and rods.

Why do these guys have to build a small block to give you a good deal? Can't give you the same break if you unload a big block for them?

That would cost less to build than any equally powerful 383 - in the end it would probably even out since you'd need swap headers and some other things - but then you have a big block in your car for the same money it would have cost you to build a hot 383.

380 at the wheels is more than enough power to get a good driver deep into the 11's no problem. Friend of mine has an '86 TA dyno'd at around 370rwhp and he runs mid 11's quite consistently.

I still say go big block.

 

I'll look more into the big block. Thats good that i'll have an 11 sec car i like that. I didnt know that high 300 hp would do that i though you would need alot more power.
thanks
kevin

 

Have you considered building a cheaper engine, maybe 300rwh, and then spraying a largish shot of nitrous? This way you can have an engine that is nicer, and more steet able than the 400rwh alternative, you will be able to beat almost any ***** no problem, and then for the vetts and the GT500 you push a button and leave them behind AFTER you have traction. This gives you the best of both worlds.

Also, ya'll are talking about bolting a big block in, I thought that involved modification to the transmision and everything? Or is it just bolt her in, hook up your trans, and plug in the driveshaft?

I could have sworn there was ALOT more to the challanges than just the exhaust....

 

I see a minimum $10,000-$15,000 project here....good luck.

 

No, big block is really not particularly difficult. The transmission bolt pattern is the same as the small block, so any SBC trans will bolt up. The motor mounts are the same and in the same location, so that works too. Distributor and carbs are the same. Rad is the same (though you'd want a high-perf rad for that, or even a hot small block - stock is barely adequate for a stock engine). Most of the accessories are the same, just require moutning brackets for a BBC. All the sensors, like temp and oil pressure, are the same. The only major complication is the exhaust system, which has been covered many times before.

 

With the big block the guy told me it bolts strait up no problem so idk.

10,000-15,000 no man i can get the engine with 450 at the crank installed for 6,500.

The nos thing i dont want to that just b/c i want my engine to last as long as possible. Then i kinda think of nos as cheating in a race but thats just me.

thanks
kevin