Chipped block where the starter bolts go!!
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Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 91
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From: Kingsport, TN
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 342 Posi
Chipped block where the starter bolts go!!
I just got my new motor in and was trying to get it broke in and had it started once. The second time it sounded like the starter wasnt hitting the fly wheel good. I checked and the starter was flexing some when u would try to start it. On the block where one of the bolts go it is chipped off a little ways up and the bolt dont get to thread really good. Any suggestions r ideas on how to get it strengthend up so it want flex and my car will start. Would longer bolts help that? Thanks and any help r ideas r appreciated. Thanks Jeff
Re: Chipped block where the starter bolts go!!
It can be welded but its not that easy. I just had my block welded b/c i broke the corner bolt where the bell housing mounts to. My buddy filled around it with cast steel. Held real good but was a PITA to tap b.c that steal is so much harder. If you can run a bolt straight through it might work just use some washers on each side to try not and crack it any farther. Talk to a local mechanic it can be welded but get somebody that knows what their doing!!! welding cast iron is alot different the regular steel welding
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,763
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Re: Chipped block where the starter bolts go!!
I had a crack going along there. I had to use that bolt hole as the alignment so I could drill the inner hole too...
You need to pull the engine, and put it on a stand.
Here's what I did:
Use a propane torch to heat the area. It's a nice ear, so it works pretty easily. Weld it up with an arc welder, and some nickel rod meant for cast iron. Machinable stuff. I bought 2 rods ($5 each) and used one for practice on scrap, then one on the block. Then filed it down, and re-tapped. Also, I have since used alloy ready rod, rather than a bolt. Less stress in that area in the future.
You need to pull the engine, and put it on a stand.
Here's what I did:
Use a propane torch to heat the area. It's a nice ear, so it works pretty easily. Weld it up with an arc welder, and some nickel rod meant for cast iron. Machinable stuff. I bought 2 rods ($5 each) and used one for practice on scrap, then one on the block. Then filed it down, and re-tapped. Also, I have since used alloy ready rod, rather than a bolt. Less stress in that area in the future.
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