Jokerslye

I just recently purchased a 1986 Z28 Yellow Camaro and I am having some problems with it


First problem - Speedometer Fiddles when driving , I have been told to just replaced the Speedo Cable and its a cheap fix is this true ? Anyone know how much It would cost to do this ?

Second problem - When I shift it from Park to Reverse or to Drive It will jerk a little bit , I was told It was probably my back brakes seeing the Back brakes are terrible . How would this cost to do this ?


Third Problem - I start it up and starts fine but when I leave it sit it dies down in rpms and then shoots back up , It sounds fine at 10-15rpm but when it goes lower it doesnt sound good at all and then eventually It just dies.


Forth Problem - I know old cars do this a little bit but not enough to make your eyes water or to make your entire Garage smell like Gas but when I get her going I mean it just reeks of gas and its from the exhaust , IT doesn't leak gas anywhere .


I would be more than appreciative if someone can finally help me finish this baby right .


Respond here or Aim - Jokerslye Yahoo - Jokerslyes@yahoo.com - MSN - Jokerslye@hotmail.com or My email - Jokerslye@gmail.com

impaled

a little bit more information from you would give everybody a chance to help you better...

305 or 350? carbed, TPI, or TBI?

issue #1... as far as the speedo issue, i would check to make sure the speedo gear isnt messed/chewed up first (as odd as that is, my neighbor's mustang had a similar issue and the gear looked like it had been partially stripped), then consider a new speedo cable. one of those two should fix that issue.

issue #2... what does it idle at? the reason i ask this is 87 had a simlar buck. i dropped the idle a little bit and it fixed that. but there definitely could be other issues.

issue #3... requires more information

issue #4... does it have a cat? cars without cats smell more gassy. i would also check for an exhaust leak, because that can make it worse.

Nasphreak29

#2, at high idle speeds your car "pulls faster" Mine idles at about 1500RPM parked and it jerks as well and the back brakes are perfect. Its just that your engine is already idling so high that when you put it into another drive it takes that and put it in motion. Its like tapping the gas real quick while still on the brake. Easily fixed my lowing the idle time. (my car will easily hit anywhere between 5-10MPG going from Park to drive with no stepping on the gas). So if it idles high thats your problem.

#3 sounds like timing, your car(if it idles high and if your not the only owner) sounds like it was tuned to idle high and run at higher RPMs, they may have messed with the timing so that it runs best at the higher RPMs but once it hits the lower once starts sounding like crap. My dad has a 73 Ford with a 302, with right at 100k miles on it that when he bought it sounded it crap with would make all kinds of noises and idled incredibly rough. However once one of his friends came and adjusted the timing it sounded perfect with that glass pak on there (i still tell him he should have bought a chevy though)

More info on both of them would help such as How high does it idle in park, and any past info you have on the car about modifications would help as well.

Jokerslye

Sorry I am new to the whole Car thing , It Is a 305 TPI 1986 ,
Question 2 - It stays at 5 but fights up to 15 and varies .

Question 3 - It starts up fine then It goes up to 15 and sounds nice and then drops down to 10 and then goes down to 5 or lower and then fights it way back up , It keeps doing this for a bit until it eventually just dies.

Question 4 - Whats a cat ?

Jokerslye

The first owner let it sit in the garage for like 15 years and the 2nd owner was a younger kid which sounded like he knew his stuff , He did this to it .

Parts Replaced

* new paint, 2006 corvette velocity yellow paint

*new water pump

*new gates upper and lower hoses

*new thermostat

*new superstart battery

*new ultima starter

*new cut to fit accell 8mm plug wires, autolite platnum plugs, and new cap and rotor button

*new gates belts

*new wiper blades

*flowmaster exhaust system

*unknown brand headers and y-pipe

*I replaced the fuel tank with a used one and installed a new sending unit and new fuel pump

*new fuel pump

*new brake pads and rotors on the front and all new inner and outer bearings and new seals, however the back brakes need to be done

*new borg warner throttle position and idle air control valve sensors

*replaced the fuel rail, all injectors, and the fuel pressure regulator

*new stp air filters and wix fuel filter

*HE pulled the entire interior and professionally cleaned it all. he also painted the plastics black and it all looks really good, he also recovered the headliner

*He just tore down the intake and I repainted the valve covers and the runners to match and I also installed all new intake gaskets and valve cover gaskets.

*new gm front bumper cover

* I lowered the car and I just recently had the alignment done


*all new sway bar poly bushings and endlinks

Jokerslye

More info on both of them would help such as How high does it idle in park, and any past info you have on the car about modifications would help as well.[/quote]

When in park goes between 5rpms to 15rpms but usually stays around 5 and just sounds like its chuggin then it works itself back up .

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

Problem number 1 is normal. My car does it. The stall converters in these cars are really low, so just throwing it in gear at idle will start to flash it. I'd say it's ocmpletely normal as long as it's not too violent. It shouldn't jump 5 feet. But feeling a jolt is normal.

The speedometer jiggling a bit.... these cars are old man, it happens. I woudln't even worry about it. The fuel gauge is probably mostly useless also. How big of a jigglei s it and how constant is it? Honestly man, I'd just ignore it unless you couldnt tell how fast you were going at all.

Smelling like gas... is the catalytic converter removed/gutted? Does it smell like gas or does the exhaust just have a strong smell? Smelling like gas can be caused by a crack in the weld at the filler neck. The exhaust smelling strong is the cat, which is, again, not a big deal unless you have to deal with emissions testing or you're a big fan of the environment.

Jokerslye

eh dude the speedometer jiggling isn't normal and I am sorry but I will be getting that fixed and it comes from the exhaust .

impaled

i would also argue that the speedo jiggeling is semi-normal, although it is fixable, i would say that most people live with it.

a cat is a catalytic converter, it reduces harmful emissions from the exhaust. it is a decent sized steel round thing that would be on the y pipe, most likely if the y pipe was replaced, it doesnt have it. i havent owned a camaro yet that had a cat. they make the exhaust quieter and reduce flow, which means reduce power.

Jokerslye

what about the other stuff

Jokerslye

I just went outside and tried to start it back up , Won't start now , I turn the key tried to start then just has a crankin sound . Or it just sits there and turns over but doesnt start /

impaled

i will maybe save you from some searching for the no start...

an engine needs four things to run... air, fuel, compression, and spark at the right time (timing).

start narrowing it down... the odds are that you still have air and compression... so i would check to make sure that the injectors are firing, and also to make sure you have spark. if you have spark and fuel i would check the timing.

Jokerslye

How do I check the Fuel Injectors ?

SpitotRs305

first do you hear the fuel pump come one when you turn the key to the on position before cranking? if yes and it has started up recently i would say you have fuel to start the car...

so then you need air which the car having started recently obviously has...
next you need spark... which you obviously had recently but now dont... or atleast not at the right time... what did you touch? and if you did touch anything all of the above goes out the window and you are back at square one...

but about your high idle problems and the hunting idle... that sounds like a IAC and TPS sensor that was replace needs to be properly set... they have been covered here https://www.thirdgen.org/tpimod2

maroon88iroc

iTrader: (7)

this is my old car here is a picture and a video.





when i had the car it idled just fine, i built the whole car, it sat in a field for about 10 years and i went through and replaced everything. i only had one problem with it and i narrowed it down to a fuel issue. i had no pressure at the shrader, but i had plenty at the fuel filter. so i pulled the entire fuel rail and injectors off of my running iroc and put them on that car and the problem was solved, the car had bad gas in it for a little while so the only thing i can think is a piece of trash lodged its way in the fuel rail.

i know the car and in my opinion the thing you need to look at is the idle air control valve, or atleast reset it using the instructions on this site. i think that is the idle problem and why it is hunting for the idle. i never had that problem here in GA but yalls air up there could be messing with the puter. there is no catalitic converter on the car that is probably why you are getting the smell. the back brakes need to be replaced, i would put money on that being 80% of the jerk issue. the other % is the hunting idle if you put it into gear as it is hunting high it is going to jerk also. the speedometer wobble i am along with infernalvortex, my iroc does the same exact thing it is an old car it is normal but like they said it possibly can be fixed.

i hate you are having the problems with the idle i had all the bugs worked out when it left my house and it idled just fine. everything on the car has been replaced so i dont know what the problem could be other than the iac. i think you should have a mechanic look at it, he can tell you better what it is when he can look at the car personally and see what it is doing. troubleshooting problems over a forum can sometimes help because of a second opinion but most of the time its just guesses, but thats all they can do is guess they dont have anything to look at and asses.

btw how are you liking the car?

Jokerslye

I have had a Mechanic look at it and so far this is what he has found wrong with it .

1.When you put the tires on you must of not double checked because you can hear a rod beating noise and well the left front wheel was about to fall off.

2.Square gaskets instead of circle , round headers burned them right out .

3. Who ever put the exhaust did a crappy job cause its leaking all over and apparently didn't weld it good enough. So they dropped the exhaust down and moved it down an inch right against the frame.

4. Rear end seal pinion seal is bad, oil running right out of it .

5. Motor and Radiator filled with rust - Flushing it out was nothing but a Rust Paint looking substance.

6. Only the outside headlights worked and brights didn't even work and the cause of that was the wiring on it was cut on both sides.

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Replacing the back brakes was told it fixed most of the jerk so far , Haven't heard anything about the speedometer cable yet and the engine idling they are still having problems trying to keep it at the right idle , They said something to do with it having a Cam or something and the computer is hard to set ?

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SpitotRs305

yep another shop that doesnt have a clue...

Jokerslye

What do you mean another shop that doesn't have a clue ?

SpitotRs305

I have had a Mechanic look at it and so far this is what he has found wrong with it .

1.When you put the tires on you must of not double checked "because you can hear a rod beating noise" and well the left front wheel was about to fall off. [/qoute]
so either you mean rod bearing noise or you do mean rod beating noise... probably has nothing to do with the tires.... and everything to do with the engine... and probably not a good thing


2.Square gaskets instead of circle , round headers burned them right out .


burning header gaskets has absolutly nothing to do with the shape missmatch
more to do with improper tourqing of the header bolts.


3. Who ever put the exhaust did a crappy job cause its leaking all over and apparently didn't weld it good enough. So they dropped the exhaust down and moved it down an inch right against the frame. [/qoute]

who moved it down so it would rest on the frame and why?



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Replacing the back brakes was told it fixed most of the jerk so far , Haven't heard anything about the speedometer cable yet and the engine idling they are still having problems trying to keep it at the right idle , They said something to do with it having a Cam or something and the computer is hard to set ?

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yes the car has a cam all pushrod V8s have a cam and the computer isnt something you are gonna just reset and all your problems will go away...
if in fact it does have a cam that is preventing it from idling properly there is absolutly nothing a plain old mechanic can do... however a tuner might be able to help if infact that is the problem... and in order to know that for sure you will need to go through the car completely and have every possible cause tested or replaced... or pull out the cam and have a look for part #s or grind #s then we could tell you if that cam would cause a significant problem with the ECM

most everyday joe-fix-it mechanics have no clue half the time they sorta just stumble through hoping to shotgun fix thing by throwing parts at it... its how they make their money...as it is very hard to know enough about any car that might be pulled in the garage that day...

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

It's an old car. Looks like you guys are desperate to find any and everything you can that you can claim is wrong wit hit.

Header gasket port shape is mostly irrelevant.

The rear brakes on 88 and earlier cars are practically useless anyway. You have to use the e-brake every time you turn the car off to get the calipers properly adjusted. Most of them never worked at all. Unless the parts are in bad shape, I'd leave it alone - it wont do you any good.

The wheels not being on tight? It was trailered up there right? You should have double-checked that when you got it.

The goofy y-pipe is, again, irrelevant and has NOTHING to do with any of your problems.

How much is hte pinion seal leaking? I've seen this on lots of 10-bolts. It just means that it leaks, not that the rear end is about to fail. It's annoying maybe, but again, it has nothing to do with any of your problems.

Motor radiator filled with rust? That's a slight concern, yes, worst case scenario you may want to change the coolant out and maybe replace the radiator just to be thorough, but beyond that it's jut somethign that happens with older engines. That motor has been around likely since 1985 collecting rust. But again, it has nothig to do with any of your problems.

Stop looking for problems, and start diagnosing the searching idle condition. That is, as far as I can tell, the only real problem you have. The speedometer fluctuations probably have something to do with either hte gauge, the cable, or the speedo gear assembly. It's just a mechanically driven piece that's either got too much slack or is binding too much somewhere.

Is the car throwing a Service Engine Soon light with the serching idle? If so, pull the codes yourself with a paperclip and tell us what you get. If not, I would start searching for vacuum leaks.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Probably so. Check the following link for more info, especially cleaning and lubing:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/inte...eedo-woes.html

JamesC

ssean92

iTrader: (10)

First off why did you buy a old car when you have no clue how to work on them. Second any shop you bring a car to, and you dont have the slightest clue will take advantage of you. Looks like they are finding every little thing to fix, so they can charge you more. Instead of fixing the real issue, and to tell you the truth I will almost bet it is the IAC. I can tell you this car didn't have a cam in it so that isnt the issue.

Jokerslye

Ahh listen to all of you filled with joy and assuming you know it all .

First of all the problems I listed we're the problems that I noticed , I am no mechanic and Second off you morons sitting here saying oh this mechanic is just trying to screw you over yadd yadda . Think before you speak , This is my old mechanic when I used to sell cars , known for a good 3-4 years and he is probably the cheapest mechanic out there that I know hence why I goto him and he gets the job done . As for the retard who said well uhh durrr why did you buy a car if you do not know how to work on it dur rudrrr , Use your head you moron I bought the car because its my dream car and I will learn about cars as I go for I am very interested .

The motor idling is the Cam and he has a computer that should set it right so there fixes one of my problems huh ?

The jerk from shifting from Reverse to Park to Drive was fixed with back brakes so there fixes another problem huh ?

Replacing the speedo cable fixed the other problem huh ?

The AC I knew didn't work but was fixed and so was the windshield wiper washers .

I bought the car from MaroonIroc88 who said that everything was fine on the vehcile well when I got it , I had nothing but problems. So the engine was idling funny , and the 2 other problems I listed which have been fixed.

He found the other stuff giving it a full check up , This isn't a mechanic who is going to find every problem with it , If theres a problem I want it fixed for the original owner never brought any of these problems to my attention .

Jokerslye

gosh Ssean .. Every little problem ? They spent 150-200$ in parts and maybe 200 in labor I think thats pretty cheap to make it a full working running car . But you keep talking .

ssean92

iTrader: (10)

First off I had seen this car in person and it was fine when I saw it.....You come on here calling people MORONS HUMMM lets see who is the moron. You come on here complaining about a car you bought off ebay that was running well when it left I can vouch for that!!!!!! And another thing this car does NOT have a cam there moron! so go ahead and spend money you dont need to there BUD!!!!!! This issue could have been fixed with a IAC, so go ahead and keep spending that cash on crap you dont need. Watch who you call a moron A$$hole. I have been working on these cars for awhile, and was trying to help you out, and yes I did ask why you would buy a car that you have no clue about. If you want to learn that is cool, but dont start calling people morons for asking questions. Let your mechanic fix it and move on!
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Im done with this, good luck with this......

urbanhunter44

iTrader: (3)

Wow guys settle down lol

ssean92

iTrader: (10)

I dont appriciate being called a moron!!!!!!!!!!!!

Jokerslye

Uhm so you're a friend of his lol , He checked the IAC bright one its completely fine , You sitting here saying the car was completely fine is Bull crap, What you think I made up these problems ? You want pictures of everything he fixed ? Ill be glad to send you them ? Not to mention None of these problems when on ebay we're displayed and I have alrdy talked to Ebay and paypal , Ihave every right to return vehicle seeing the stuff that was wrong with it wwas never mentioned. You're friend clearly states - This car is in perfect running and was tuned up and ready to go .

You think about it spending 5250$ and he says it runs and everything is working great and I get it and its completely the opposite .

ssean92

iTrader: (10)

well like I said good luck with it!!!!!!!

Jokerslye

Eh well If Michael doesn't respond ill be opening up a dispute with paypal , anyway you have a good one .

Darkshot

iTrader: (4)

It's an 86 IROC my friend what were you expecting? Welcome to the world of cars, if you don't like it you picked the WRONG dream car. Sounds like you need to start saving for a nice plush brand new BMW.

And if your intent was to learn about this stuff you should have purchased the Helm manual and started doing some homework instead of taking it to a mechanic.

This is how it is when you buy an older car. Unless it's practically new with very low miles on it, the fact is you're going to have to go through it and fix all the little BS left over from previous owners. NOTHING you described is major and in all honestly it's all stuff you should have expected.

Have you done a full tune up yet? Cap, rotor, wires, plugs, fuel filter, O2 sensor?

Jokerslye

Oh gosh I am not complaining about having to put money into it sport, I am complaining that the owner never clearly said anything about any of the things that we're found wrong with it and its an 86 Z28. As for saving for a nice plush Brand new BMW , Its a Plush Brand 2008 STS Caddy.

Why would i purchase the manual , My mechanic has been very good to me , He was my mechanic at my Car lot and still kicking. I know how it is when you buy an older car I have a garage full of them and it does have a good 36k on it . As for you saying nothing I descrived is major and in all honestly I should have expected well was a little hard when the car over in Georgia and the owner clearly states all these things were checked out and fine which later on we're not .

If you can't sit here and understand my frustration then I don't know apparently you have never bought an old car before. If the person states before oh this is wrong ect ect and this then sure all fair game but the fact is he said everything was in well working condition and ready to go besides a few things he states such as Back Brakes, A/C , Windshield Washer Fluid pump . Everything else he clearly forgot to mention .

As for MaroonIroc88 if he doesn't wanna respond thats fine , He can either respond to me by email and work this out or he can fork over the 5300 and some which was all ready agreed upon from ebay . Choice is his.


This is how it is when you buy an older car. Unless it's practically new with very low miles on it, the fact is you're going to have to go through it and fix all the little BS left over from previous owners. NOTHING you described is major and in all honestly it's all stuff you should have expected.

Have you done a full tune up yet? Cap, rotor, wires, plugs, fuel filter, O2 sensor?[/quote]

87350IROC

iTrader: (2)

Joker,

I've had my share of problems with thirdgens. I can look at my IROC the wrong way and something will break. Its entirely possible that the car was fine when it left maroon88iroc and broken when it got to you. Oh course I have no idea if this is the case, I have never met maroon88iroc. However be prepared to constantly fix this car, thats just the way these cars are.

SpitotRs305

so this mechanic that you have know for 3-4 years... used to do work for you when you sold cars?... but you own a...i assume used car dealership?

so you should be extremely familiar with the conditions of most trade-ins... for you to have expected anything other than those EXTREMELY MINOR problems only leads me to believe you are more ignorant than you have already proven or a liar...

and dont expect us to just believe your cocknbull story about ebay saying you have every right to bring it back because he stated that Back Brakes, A/C , Windshield Washer Fluid pump needed to be worked on... that looks like what you spend money on NO? fixing the rear drums to stop the jerk?
the a/c and washer fluid pump...you fixed so you are stuck with a slightly moist pinion seal which you would really have to prove he knew about and that you didnt do it... and an hunting idle which could be any number of things now that you have had JOE-HAMFIST mechanic work on it basically you wouldnt have a leg to stand on with fleabay

but then you claim to be a used car salesman and we all know how they are...
but yeah...."eh dude whats a cat..." what are you really 16-17y/o

89RsPower!

Now I'm confused seeing as how you have a car lot and all.. yet your new to the whole car thing.. anyway find a mechanic that knows his **** from his ***, those are all very minor easy to fix problems..
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Curious here, did he sell it with a warranty? If not you have 30 days from the purchase date under the lemon law I believe..

SpitotRs305

A TID BIT TAKEN FROM ONE OF GENIUSES FIRST POSTS...
First Problem - "She starts up fine and used to be sort of fine I guess and I'd drive it but now I am too scared too" . Due to the fact when I start it , it starts to chug and goes between 2rpms and 5pms and sometimes it will get up to 10-15 and sound how its supposed to sound but just die and come back and die and then completely die . (Main Problem need help please!)

so it clearly states that the car used to be "fine" start up "fine" and of course you were DRIVING IT... so what did YOU touch what did YOU play with?

oh i do love the search by poster feature....

Jokerslye

New and Used Dealer ship , See this is my point and If you arent going to read all of the messages then just do not bother posting. At the lot we do minor fixes on cars , These minor fixes involve brakes , tune ups , oil changes , A/C , little electrical stuff , tires ect ect . The customer would ask for a car fax or we even let a Mechanic completely check the car out to make sure everything is fine and ready to roll of the lot .

The point is that this guy told me in his exact words * HE CHECKED EVERYTHING and EVERYTHING WAS ALL PERFECT AND GOOD TO GO! I wont have to spend any money on it but the minor things he did mention - Back Brakes - AC - Windshield Wiper pipe . That all that he mentioned everything else you are telling me from loading up on the car and the 20 hours It took to get here everything else just happened riight .. I couldn't even enjoy the car or drive it but once .


SoitotRs305 see you obviously didn't read any of the post you sit here calling me Ignorant and or a Liar when I know what trade ins are and you have to do some fixing on it , for if you wipe the grease all over your thick glasses you still haven't got the point .

Are you a ****ing moron ? The AC- Windshield Washer FLuid Pump and back brakes was the only thing said you ****ing retard. You must be another one of MaroonIroc88 friend of course saying oh the car perfect just like him. The slightly moist pinion seal ? You wanna see the ****ing picture and video the thing is ****ing leaking all over the place you ****ing retard. Oh as me doing and not him right ? I'd have to drive it to do it huh .

Lol yes a Joe Schmoe mechanic lol , What mechanics cost this guy will be half as cheap as more you moron this Joe Schmoe knows his stuff but you keep talking kid .
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Okay listen bright one , I sell the cars , I don't work on them , I admit I have much to learn from on the inside of the car but I know the basics about cars , to sell a car you do not have to be a mechanic . But apparently you know this .
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You have got to be the dumbest ****ing person I have seen post on this site yet . The first time I started it you ****ing moron is when it got here and the first time It stalled which the delivery guy saw and noted . But you know everything and you can sit here till your blue in the face If I want my money back I'd easily get it back and I will get it back if he doesn't respond soon .

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Quarrelsome, abusive, antagonistic.

JamesC

Darkshot

iTrader: (4)

You seriously cannot be any older than 16 or 17. You're making a complete fool.



Hope you enjoyed your stay, we didn't!

88KARRV6

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, that's a good way to act, start insulting people when they are tying to assist you with your car.

This is poor behavior, I'm sure many members myself included have had similar issues with their cars at one point or another, heck these cars are over 20 years old, it's to be expected.

I'm sure no one will be inclined to lend a hand after reading that because insults are uncalled for and very immature.
that kind of stuff usually gets people here.

this thread should be locked.