where the one kid said it was shiney....

 

Around the cam bore itself? No, that's the thrust face where the cam sprocket rides normally. It's flat, and the sprocket face is flat, so there's no noise coming from there.

 

o damn i was hoping that was it lol i seriously have no idea where the noise is coming from...........

 

Start putting it together a piece at a time.

 

the main annoying thing is i did that the frst time, o well i'll try again, I'm gonna lube everything up real good this time (better than last time) What can i use for a lube? i used all the install lube i got with the cam.....

 

You'll need to get some more.

 

The lube is only for startup. Once engine is running ,the engine oil takes over.
If you have a problem ( as you do ) extra lube is not going fix it.
As the man said above; one piece at a time until you identify what is making the noise.

 

its alot easier said than done, Summit told me the parts will tell of the noise, yea they would if any of them had marks on them! Nothing looks worn wrong to me, its so irritating.

 

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=faq&id=1

Note number 3 ? Could it be this that´s going on..?

 

its basically a gear that sits in between the timing gears, eliminating the need for a timing chain. when installed, they make a whining noise, similar to a supercharger. i was just kidding around with you.

Heres a pic:

 

I wouldn't think so because its a flat tappet, they are suppoesed to be self kept right? the lobes/lifters hold it in place while running.

 

Found out it sounds like its coming from the front of the block, i took it apart moved the crank gear a little forward and it still makes the same noise, its just so irritating!

 

the crank gear should be back as far as it can go.. the thing I was commenting on before is that in your picture it looked to me that the area that should be flush with the cam sprocket had a little gouge to it and looked like it had a small piece dangling off the top at almost the 12 o clock position, but if it's smooth in person it's just my imagination or the picture.

 

Its smooth, its just confusing, nothing is worn funny or eaten away, yet the noise is still there....

 

You moved the cam forward and then started it again? The lifters put a constant rearward force on the cam.

 

no just the crank gear, i thought it was rubbing or something but i guess not....

 

I have a question now, considering i have looked at everything and nothing seems wore wrong one of my friends told me to check the crank bearings, could the increased compression do to the Vortec heads do that?
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Also if i have to replace the crank and bearings if they have been eaten up should i go for a 383 stroker for a replacement or should i just buy a new OEM crank? (also if i do OEM crank should i buy new connecting rods and pistons or no?) Car will be a daily driver.

 

Or maybe a 355 stroker or 364 stroker?

 

well neither a 355 or 364 are strokers as far as sbc 350's are concerned.. but that's besides the point.. I doubt the slight increase in compression has anything to do with the noise..

 

Bearings won't make that kind of noise.

 

well its coming from the front of the motor, i havn't checked the crank yet but i will tommarow... well this site i looked on has 355 and 364 stroker kits. I didn't think it was eaither but its under their stroker kits page so idk.
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I have no idea what it is.... well something is putting metal shavings into the oil so it looks like metallic paint..... (not that bad but you can see the little bits)

 

Have you tried starting it without the timing cover on?

 

no i figured it would shoot oil everywhere......i didn't want that

 

I know this seems obvious but you have looked at the backside of the timing cover right?

 

yes i have its fine....

 

any ideas? i am in the process of checking crank bearings....

 

no, only that you're most likely looking in the wrong place, crank/rod bearings wouldn't make a noise like that and you'd notice a drop in oil pressure. If the noise wasn't there before the cam/head swap the problem almost has to be with something you changed.

 

well with me not finding ANYTHING to do with the cam or heads i'm going to check the crank anyways just to put me at peace of mind.

 

Looks like the cam gear is rubbing the block to me. I thought of a cam bearing spining, that usely makes the oil pressure jump up and down as the bearing turns in the bore.

 

That's what I thought too from the pic, but he said in person it's nice and smooth. Also he's had two different timing sets on it so one defective cam gear is ruled out unless it was actually a problem with the cam causing the gear to rub. A spun cam bearing also would have most likely left a mark on the cam. I wish I could see everything in person and hear it.. I feel for you man.. keep us updated with your progress.. you'll figure it out eventually.
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At this point before tearing the whole thing apart I think I would have tried a different cam (a cheap cam and lifter set from summit) just to see if the noise was still there.

 

Here are some pics of the bottom bearings/crank....















What do you guys think of these?

 

As expecting, nothing there that could explain your noise. Now that you've got it apart that far, it'd be silly not to put new bearings in. If you're doing that, you might as well put new rings in, too.

Unfortunately finding the problem is just going to involve lots of trial and inspection. The rest of us can sit here and guess, but you've got the engine right there in front of you.

 

I agree with Apeiron - At least do the bearings now - The copper is showing in them, they're well worn. And for $130 (including a ring compressor and degalzer) you can do your rings.

Just have to do lots of trial and error =( Keep us up-to date though =)

 

I see on the list of upgrades you did, a new summit intake? I'm assuming you went with a carb intake and have a carb to tbi adapter on there? When you tighten down the bolts for the tbi unit into the adapter it probably feels like they hit something right? Try taking some of the metal off the manifold (b/c there should be some in the way if you look down the throttle bores on the tbi unit due to the tbi unit having round holes while the carb intake just has rectangular holes). After that, piece everything back together using a little sealant between just about everything (use 2 throttle body gaskets though to take up some of the bolts extra length). What I'm betting is happening is the bolts for the tbi feel like they hit something, that's when they push the adapter off the manifold a tiny bit (due to no extra clearance between the adapter and manifold with how long the tbi bolts are). When the car starts and air is introduced, air is going through that tiny gap hence the squeal or high pitched whistle noise. None of this is helped by the fact that the metal from the manifold is interrupting air flow down the tbi bores. Try that and lemme know how it works for ya.

 

hmm didn't see him say anything about a new intake.. I know what you mean though, a bad throttle body gasket can make one hell of a loud high pitched squeeling noise, but it would be so obvious in person I can't imagine him mistaking it for having anything to do with the cam. That is a good question though.. I have no idea if this thing is carbed or injected... I'd like to listen to that video again to see if it sounds like a bad tb gasket but the video is gone.. It's the kind of thing you wish you could see and hear in person because it would probably be really easy to figure out due to how loud it is.. but trying to diagnose it from across the internet makes it one heck of a challenge.. you are right though, a leak directly under a tb can make a very loud squeeling noise similiar to what I think his sounded like (I saw the video a week or two ago) it's just that it would be so easy to diagnose in person that I wouldn't think it could possibly be the problem.. that and he would have had it off and replaced the gasket quite a few times in the process of doing this.
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If this were the problem it would be better fixed by simply using the correct length bolts instead of using an extra gasket and sealant.

 

You never know, lol and yes, correct length bolts would work better.

 

OMG you fixed the problem! holy ****! i never thought of that at all!!! Thank you so much dude! I was never able to look at the motor with the sqeuul cause it was too loud and i thought i was gonna ruin something so i never let it idle get out and look/listen. I am using the original size bolts which are too long for the carb to tbi adapter... Thanks a million dude!!!!! ANd thank you to all of you who gave me ideas on what to look for in this hellish ordeal

 

glad ya got it figured out

 

o hell yea! it was killing me i wanted her back! lol

 

Never would have guessed that in a thousand years. It didn't sound anything like air whistling in the recording.

 

i know it sounded like a freakin die grinder lol Thanks alot though.

 

it sounded just like a bad throttle body gasket on an old tbi truck I had, just never would have thought of it because nothing was ever mentioned about a new intake/tb adaptor being used... All I thought was new heads and a cam were swapped on using the existing induction system.. in the future give us ALL the information and we can avoid all the assembly and dissassembly.. on the other hand I bet your getting real good at doing cams..
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goes to show ya how disgnosing things on the internet goes.. thats the type of thing that takes a few seconds to diagnose in person.. about as long as it takes to spray some starting fluid or equiv. around the base of the tb..

 

well for one, i said vortec heads which require a new intake (that should already be known) and i forgot the mention the adaptor b/c i didn't think it was a problem.

 

When you have it running, have you ever had your head under the hood to tell what "area" of the motor its coming from, it might help to give you a general idea, hows the idle? Is it really rough, boggin out? Hard to get RPM's up? From my experience with a blown out bearing, is more of a howling noise, not a squeel. But they may be right, it could be MANY things though, try listening to the engine the best you can, keep it at low RPM's and shove your ear in there.. I mean it could literally be something as stupid as a belt just being a little to tight/lose, whatever. Or... a water pump bearing? I mean leave all options open, don't pin point one thing until you try diagnosing everything else that you possibly can, just my 2 cents?