Ok. So to clear things up. I had my timing set at 6* ATDC . It ran fine, not very powerful, but ran. It had a ping to it. So, I bought a timing light and set it to 6* BTDC and the ping went away. Seemed to idle good, at first. So i figured problem solved....WRONG. I give it a little gas and it starts popping and sputtering and won't go above 3,000 RPM without crapping out. Then I try setting the timing anywhere from 0-10* BTDC.....same thing, no change. And undriveable. So, I think screw it, I'll put it back where it was with the ping and just drive it until I can figure it out. Set it back to 6*ATDC , now it won't even stay running. So back to 6*BTDC. with the bypass wire unplugged it fires right up and stays idling. With it plugged in, it doesn't fire right up or stay running. I am at my wits end here.

BTW......New coil, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, and ignition control module.

 

I'd use a piston stop and a degree wheel to verify that your timing marks are correct. You could also have your distributor out a tooth if you've pulled the distributor recently. There's also a possibility that the roll pin for the distributor gear has sheared and the gear has turned on the shaft. The roll pin should be pointing in the same direction as the rotor.

 

when setting the timing did you idle it to get the engine to operating temperature then turn it off and set the timing, and remembering to disconnect the tan and black connector? then when its set start the car and make sure its correct

 

No. I got it to operating temp, unplugged the bypass wire, and then set the timing when it was running.
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I don't have a piston stop or a degree wheel . I have never removed the dizzy. So should I pull the dizzy and check the pin? This JUST started after I set the timing right.
Thanks 4 the replies!!!!

 

Unplug the bypass wire, start the engine, set the timing, turn off engine, replug the bypass wire.

 

Ok, I just tried that. When I plug the bypass wire back in and try to start it, it won't start. And IF it does is runs for like a second and shuts off. But, with the bypass wire unplugged and timing set, it fires right up and idles good, just can't give it any gas. Or else the thing starts shaking and popping. Even smoke comes out of the pipes.

 

Turn the distributor with the wire unplugged until the engine starts. The timing is too far off.

You changed the plug wires. Double check to make sure the firing order is correct. It's easy to mix up #5 and #7. Firing order is in clockwise rotation. 18436572. Maybe you started #1 on #8 and the timing is off by one cylinder.

 

The engine fires right up and idles fine with the bypass unplugged! I checked the wires and they are good. So, I just read a code 42. My neighbor had a reader. Does that sound right? The EST system?

 

Unplugged the ECU and reset the code. No more code 42. Just code 12. I am at a loss here!!! Could it be MAP related? When I try to start it with the bypass wire hooked up, it will not stay running. Have to pump gas, and it doesnt' even rev up, like something is plugged up or something. Going Crazy here!!!!! Could it be the computer itself?

 

IF the computer is bad, would it even throw a code 12? I can't believe I am getting no other codes! Timing is dead on. But something in that bypass plug, electronic spark control, or the computer itself. I just don't have the money right now to throw all the stuff in just to see if it works. The only other vehicle I have is a motorcycle.

 

did u check the ignition components? spark plugs? rotor? cap? after a while i drove my car with advanced timing i found some things wrong with the car like the rotor, and the contacts, but that might just be cuz i never changed them

 

Code 12 isn't a fault. It's a flash code to indicate the beginning of the codes.

Check the firing order of the plug wires.

Did you install the correct ignition module and are the plugs properly installed on it? If in doubt, reinstall the old one.

 

I just replaced the cap, rotor, ignition module, and coil within the last week. Spark plugs and wires last month.

 

I know code 12 isn''t a fault. I just figured with the way it runs with the bypass wire plugged in, it would flash some other code.
I have double and triple checked the the firing order and plug wires, they are all good.
I don't know how to check the ignition module? I just installed the one they gave me for my application.
Like I said, the thing fires right up and idles fine WITH THE BYPASS WIRE UNPLUGGED. It just starts missing and shaking after 2800 RPM. Now with the bypass wire PLUGGED, it doesn't run at all.