I just finished the installation of a fresh built 383 stroker into my 87 camaro. The guy that rebuilt the engine replaced the stock flexplate (153 tooth) with a brand new 168 tooth, which caused me some difficulty finding a starter that would work with it. After researching the archives here, l found someone who reccomended a starter for a similar build-up. l went ahead and purchased that starter, it seemed to bolt up properly, it engages well, but will not disengage. l added the shims that came with the starter, but it wouldn't help the problem at all. Am l using the wrong bolts? l'm using the bolts that cam in the little "HELP!" package. The starter will disengage when l drop it about a half-inch away from the block. is there a spacer/shim that l could use? the engine will be fairly high-compression, so l want to be sure the starter will engage the flexplate properly. Any input at all would be much appreciated and if it would help any of you, l could get the part number off the starter. Sorry for making it so long, and thanks in advance!

 

Need to pull the inspection cover and check the starter gear to flywheel clearance. Pull the starter gear out with a screw driver until it engages the flywheel. You should have 030 clearances between the top of the teeth and the bottom of the teeth. A large paper clip will have 030 wire in it but you need to measure it to be sure. Starter shims will pull the starter away from the flywheel and give you more clearance. Removing shims will bring the stater closer to the flywheel. I have seen starters that had to have the mounting surface milled down to tighten the clearance up. I don't think you will need to do this. If more shims are needed they can be found in the help section where you found the bolts at the parts store.

 

Made a little progress with the starter problem. Once the starter engages, it will atleast disengages after turning the flywheel 2 or 3 teeth...I tried just about every single position possible with this starter. Worked with it almost all day and still can't get the started to disengage the flywheel.
Tried adding shims on either and both sides; going from 1-3 shims, as well as adding countless different combinations of washers. l discovered that the solenoid case was coming into contact with the header, and even after l ground the case down to clear the header, I've still been having the same problems. Could l be using the wrong bolts, might l have damaged the block bolting the starter up against the header? Is there a problem with the starter itself? It seems to have a bunch of spring pressure. (The setup that seems to be working the best so far is no shims/washers added)

 

Check your bolts before you take any more drastic action. Starter bolts are unique in a few ways. Take the starter out and push a bolt through it. Look at the threads sticking through the other side. You should see ALL the threads PLUS ABOUT 1/4" OF THE BOLT'S SHANK. The holes in the block match this- the threads don't start until about 3/8" into the hole. This allows the bolts to act as a locating dowel AND a bolt all at the same time. Helps keep the starter from twisting/walking around on it's pad.

Are the teeth on the starter or flexplate/flywheel chewed up?

Beyond that, does it actually start the engine?

 

Thanks for the input guys. To answer your question damon, the starter and the flexplate are both brand new, no nicks, mars, or chipped teeth at all. The starter is also out-of-the-box remanufactured, new pinion and all. The starter engages the flexplate perfectly, turns the engine well, but will not disengage once its done turning. If I turn the engine manually by the crankshaft bolt, the starter will disengage, after about 5 or 6 teeth. I would assume once the engine fires it would disengage; but I also don't want to rely on this assumption. The threads on the starter bolts do pass through the starter mounting brackets with a little of the cross-hatched part of the bolt showing as well.

 

The pinion will disengage once the engine starts but you will hear a grinding noise before it does.
I'm having the same problem with one of mine. Even my aftermarket adjustable mini starter doesn't have enough adjustment to make up for a 168 tooth flexplate.
I've even looked into truck starters but haven't jumped into that pool as of yet.

 

May have to go to a mini starter. Sounds like the sarter is in a bind with the headers.

 

I had to grind off about a 1/4 inch off the mount block so my starter would sit right. I have a 385 with a 168 tooth flex plate and a th350. The header was contacting the block alittle but I never tried to start it that way so it might not be your problem.

I have one of the summit mini starters.

By the way you should invest in a flywheel turning tool. TRurning the motor by the crank bolt is a bad idea. They have been known to break off in the crank. They make tools to attach to the balancer to turn but I just use a flywheel/flexplate turning tool.

 

I turn mine by sticking a flatblade screwdriver in the slots behind where the flexplate bolts to the converter.

 

Do a mini starter and you will have no issues, most come drilled for either 153 or 168 tooth. Your problem will be solved, I just put one up for sale in the classifieds.