Any ideas why? It was running a month ago (fresh rebuild) but I hadn't started it since I had to fix some electrical issues.

The only thing I did was re-lash the passenger side valves since I think two were ticking. I pulled the dizzy to move it for the vacuum advance canister clearance (hitting the RPM Air-Gap) but I've double checked it and it is installed correctly.

I will try to re-lash all the valves again but something else has to be going on here...starter not spinning fast enough? (I doubt it...)

 

It sounds like the timing is off. Turn the engine over by hand with #1 plug out to find out compression stroke, then put narrow screwdriver in plug hole and watch it go up and down til you find TDC.

 

fuel and spark is all you need to fire a engine. if you have the timing right then fuel or spark is missing.

 

Generally speaking you should look back at the repair that spawned the issue. You pulled the distributor and now it wont start. Will it hit at all? I would guess timing.

 

You have more car issues than humanly possible. Don't blink, your alternator might fall off.

 

Tell me about it [again]

Every once in a while it will cough and spin faster for just a split second like it wants to hit. My buddy thinks since everything else in in check, the lash is too tight keeping the valves open and not building any compression. I know its sparking because the timing light is flashing.

I've checked the dizzy and its stabbed right. I tried the entire range from 0* up to over 20* advanced and she still won't fire. I readjusted the lifters on the passenger bank per spec previously and don't see how they could all tighten up from sitting...

 

Dizzy is stabbed right..as in, you brought a cylinder up to TDC firing and the rotor points to that cylinder?

 

Yup....brought up #1 until the paper towel popped out of the plug hole (coming up on #1 firing). Set the dampener to 12* and stabbed the dizzy so the rotor lines up exactly with the #1 terminal. Now, I've played around with the timing trying to get it to fire but you get the idea.

 

How did you verify fuel? Have you tried spraying starting fluid down the throat to see if it sputters?

 

Well I can see fuel spraying out of the carb when I depress the linkage...no starting fluid on hand but didn't think it was even needed.

It ran fine (well not fine but it started at least) before it went back under the knife to solve some voltage issues (yea, still). I re-did my main power and starter feeds, new mini, high tq starter, move the dizzy to clear the intake, and re-lash the passenger valves.

A friend seems to think its still not spinning over fast enough (which I doubt since the stock starter spun even slower and still got it to start) or the valves are too tight and its not building compression. I just don't see how the valves could be too tight now and were fine previously.

 

A compression test would quickly determine if your buddy was right. But knowing how many times you've done lash on that thing (probably as many times as I've done mine...), you're lash setting is probably alright.

Have you pulled a plug and looked at the strength of spark?

 

Thought about the compression test but it would be faster to just lash the valves again. Some pushrods had become very difficult to spin at TDC but that should just be the oil pumping up the lifter.

I havn't examined the spark itself but I hope to mess around with the thing tomorrow before work. I'll try to see how substantial the spark is before lashing the valves again but I don't know how I can compare my results with a control...

 

does your 383 have an ignition control module under the dizzy?

 

Yes it is a [el cheapo] Pro Comp large cap HEI dizzy.

 

Check your spark with a spark plug tester, if your not getting the spark, ICM could be out. "seems like thats all i been posting lately, ICM problems, but it is that time of year where moisture hangs around"

 

It should start easily at 0° TDC. If you're sure it isn't a wiring problem I'd check compression regardless of how new the rebuild. 80psi is needed for combustion.
Where is the mark on the dampener when the paper plug pops out, on left, or right side of timing tab?

 

Its a Fluidampner...no tab, just pointer. I've tried everywhere between 0* and 20* advanced with no fire. As stated, the motor ran a month ago and I let her sit so I could iron out some wiring to try and solve a voltage drop and install a new adequate starter.
I'm getting spark but it appears to be weak. I cannot say for sure because I have nothing to compare to, however.

What could cause I weak spark?

Also, I had some serious condensdation on the outside (and am sure the inside) of the motor when the temperature went from 30* to 60* overnight. Could this have led to rust in the walls or rings causing issues...or worse, a crank somewhere??

 

People:
I have the same problem but with a TPI . I have done nothing but changing my fuel pump (in the tank). I didn't start the car for about two years. I checked the timing and it's alright. The only strange thing is that the pump still sound 7-10 seconds after taking out the key from the switch.

Please help!

 

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NINA...how inexpensive are we talking? I'm am running late for work so cannot research them at them moment.

It just confuses me that one month ago it ran fine and now it won't even start...



Maybe the humidity/condensation hurt the module as stated allowing it to spark but not to its full running potential?

 

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Well I do have a spark tester but to my knowledge it merely shows if a spark is being conducted.

Looks like this...




So if it was indeed a weak spark I have to find out why it changed when I redid some wiring that should have, if anything, made a better voltage signal. The positive (pink) wire to the dizzy shows 12v with key on and 9.5v under cranking (just like the rest of the car).
Is there a dizzy module issue here?


The #2 cylinder tested at 180 psi on the compression test and while I did not test the others I feel strongly this is not a compression issue.
I also readjusted the lash very loosely on the passenger side head to no avail.

 

Have you checked all plugs for fouling? cold starts and rich condition will foul plugs.

Disable ECM timing control and check base timing while cranking.

 

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Plugs are good.

The car is carburated......

 

sounds like your 180 out on timing

 

I will certainly triple check that, however it looked good when I double checked it.