well on new years eve, i decided to take the car out for a spin before i left for college.. i wanted to paint the road with tire marks but ended up painting it with oil instead.. threw out the # 5 and 6 rods.. motor tapped the rev limiter at 6900 a couple times and it just gave up.. done this many times before but i guess it just ran out of life.. all forged rotating assembly, gone... "new" 010 nickel block, gone.. brodix racerite heads, gone or at least damaged.. so its time to save up for the new bullet..


i have spare 350 blocks so:
another 383
AFR 210 eliminators
super victor
Prosystems 950 HP
Lunati Voodoo Solid roller or custom cam
Comp Cams endure-X solid roller lifters
Comp Cams Hi-Tech Stainless rockers 1.6 or possibly T&D shaft
Stud Girdle
forged crank
Pro comp forged i-beams (lighter)
Mahle pistons ~ 11.5:1
Clevite H-bearings
Main Studs
Head Studs

last motor was probably barely pushing near 400rwhp.. i'll be looking for 500+rwhp with this.. and around 10.50's on pumpgas.. i figure about $6000 for all this plus machine work.. and i should be able to rev past 7000 without a even thinking about it.. so i might need to upgrade other things.. but thats when they do break.. and so the saving begins..

 

What rods and bolts were you using with the old engine?

You expect a vital component such as rods made by Pro Comp to make it bullet-proof?

 

these were the rods i had.. https://shop.enginekits.com/osb/itemdetails.cfm?ID=133

the pro-comp rods say they can handle 1000hp so idk.. they look good for now.. but this build is probably gonna take 2 years to complete so i really havent been looking at stuff yet.. http://www.jegs.com/p/Procomp+Electr...43352/10002/-1

what would you recommend for good rods??

 

Stick to a REAL rod company. Scat, Eagle. Or one up on that, Manley, Oliver, Lentz, etc. Pro Comp, like their heads and everything else they make, shady casting quality. The rods you used were probably from the same casting house as Pro Comp. And trust only ARP hardware on critical stuff like rod bolts.

 

these look pretty good..

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...8&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...D&autoview=sku

 

I'm not buying that a $265 set of rods is good to 700 HP. That's barely more than twice the price of what a good set of rod bolts costs.

The Eagles are one of the best deals for the price.

 

If money were not an option, I would do the first 2 over the second 2. Personal preference. Give me an H beam though.

 

i guess those manley's look pretty good at a tick under 600..

what would you use for a crank??

 

You'd be alright with an Eagle or Scat 4340. To satisfy your own curiousity, though, look at companies like Lunati, Crower (they make good rods, too), Cola (if they're still around - used to make great cranks). But Eagle or Scat would be fine.

 

I've had small issues with the machining and balance on a couple of Scat cranks, but nothing that couldn't be fixed if you weren't watching for it.

 

How about Howards? Haven't heard a lot of people using their stuff, the local people I've talked to talk like they're the Cadillac.

 

I'd get the motor apart and try to figure out what happened before I started deciding on parts for the next one. 6900 on a 383 is tight, but not crazy tight. Sounds like possibly something else was wrong. Maybe oiling, or assembly, or maybe even lean/detonation. I'd make sure before I knew what happened before I threw a lot of money into another motor and possibly carry over a problem or repeat an error. Just my 2 cents

 

It was cheap rods.

 

five7kid, i've heard of howards but never seen anyone use them.. did a small search and i came across this.. has pretty much what i want.. Mahle pistons, howards forged rods, 4340 crank, clevite h-series for 1599...

http://www.competitionproducts.com/p...?number=PP383F

redliterunner, oiling was fine, i had a solid flat that lived rather well.. oil was valvoline NSL(not street legal) racing 20w50, high volume pump, 7 qt pan, wix filter.. my A/F readings were in the 13's.. did a couple days racing at 14.6:1 just fine so it wasnt that.. and my cranking compression is in the 160's.. nowhere near detonation for 92 octane.. so yes, it most definitely was the rods.. i only paid 299 for them at the time.. well hopefully i can reuse the crank.. that would be nice.. pistons are probably toast..

oh and i did all the assembly.. rotating was balanced by a shop in honolulu, hi.. at the previous oil change, oil was nice and clean too..

 

OK, just a thought. Stock rods will go 7k in a short stroke motor, so I thought...you know...maybe...

 

They'll go that speed in a long stroke engine too, or even higher, but don't count on them doing it for very long at any stroke.

 

Of course nothing lasts forever, but I had a stock bottom end 327 in my 69 camaro street racer/bracket car several years ago. Shifted at 7000 with a 4-gear for half a season while I built another 350. Went 7500+ once in a while when I'd miss a gear (cringe). Later that motor went in a friend's monte carlo. Might still be there.

Anyway, I'm off topic. Sorry.

 

now i know to never but crap.. this motor should be the last i ever buy.. *knock on wood*

i had all the angles figured out except the rods.. pistons were kinda on edge with probe srs.. but nonetheless you would think i could spin to at least 7k with forged h-beam rods.. i've duplicated that run many times before.. get rolling in 1st, floor it, on the limiter, powershift 2nd, still on the limiter till the tires catch up at the limiter, powershift 3rd, healthy chirp and pull to 6500 at about 90 and drop it in 5th.. this was my normal "fun run".. i guess it was just time..

well a 327 has only a 3.25" stroke.. i have a 3.75" much larger..

 

Those weren't rods though, they're rod-shaped objects.

 

HAHAHA i have to agree.. but they held up decently for what i paid for it.. got me into the 11's.. *shrug* with a better exhaust, i could have gone low 11's.. AFR heads would have pushed me near the 10's..

 

Good luck with that build, it should be very strong with the 210 AFR's and a solid roller.

Look into callies compstar stuff too if your in the market for rods/crank. They make some good stuff. Then run ARP 2000 bolts. SHould be damn near bullet proof, good to 1000hp for sure.

I run eagle H beams with arp 8470 bolts and they held great for me at 400whp and 6500 plus rpm. Held great on 520ish whp at same rpm. I"m now going boost and plan to make 700-750whp with arp 2000 bolts on these same rods. Still running eagle forged crank. It all should hold well.

run 6" rod, that will keep piston weight down and allow you to run some rpms