any way to run dual oil pressure senders? i had my stock but pulled it out and replaced it with a stewart warner 100psi oil pressure gauge but now i have my stock oil pressure doing nothing and just taking up space. how can i get this to work? wat if hook it together? and run it off the stewart warner gauge or maybe if there is a TEE available that i can run 2 off the port in the rear of the engine block? any ideas are welcome

 

Running dual oil pressure senders doesn't accomplish anything.

 

umm could allow me to run 2 different oil pressure gauges which is the whole point of this thread.

 

If you want 2 gauges you need 2 senders.

 

i have the stock sender still for the stock gauge, and i have the stewart warner sender plugged into the stock location. i was just wondering if there was another place for the other sender? or if there is a TEE to use of the stock place so i could plug 2 senders into it for both gauges

 

You can use a tee.

 

do u have a part #? i have yet to find anything with the right threads on summit or jegs. i kno i could use a TEE but i just dont know where one is available.

 

Any parts store will have one.

 

Any hardware store will sell one.

 

really? havent found one yet, nothing on summit or jegs, wat TEE has a 1/8-27NPT fitting size that has 1 male and 2 female fittings that are all the same

 

what would be the point?
im just trying to figure out why you think you need two oil pressure guages.

 

Forget Summit, just go to Lowes/Home Depot/Napa/Autozone/Checker/Shucks/Pep Boys/Ace Hardware/whatever...

 

ive went to a local auto shop that i get my parts from and have yet to find it. i guess i'll have to look around.

red_dragon_85: i would say that i installed an stewart warner 100psi oil pressure gauge bc i wanted a more accurate oil pressure gauge than the stock, in order to do this u have to take out the stocks sending unit and replace it with the Stewart warner sending unit. this means your stock oil pressure gauge is usless and its just there doing nothing.(also wanted a 100psi bc i will be running a high pressure oil pump with new motor and for accuracy) so heres my gauge panel and basiacly the last whole 5" circle of my gauge panel (firebird) is absolutly useless bc i also took out my stock coolant temp gauge bc i replaced that with an Stewart warner guage that is more accurate. so i want to get these 2 working again bc they look stupid doing nothing. but i want to keep my stewart warner gauges bc they are more accurate and offer better looks etc.

soooo do u see why i want it to work? i will find a spot for my stock coolant temp gauge sender as well since i want that to work as well with my stewart warner gauge. just seems pointless to have the gauges there if there not working since its something easy as just finding a spot for the senders.

 

wait.
you got a replacement gauge that was more accurate but didn't put it in the gauge cluster.
so your solution is to re wire up your old in-accurate and out of range gauges because you want to have them working.

why not just put the stewart gauges in your dash where the old one was and put the original gauge in the trash where it belongs?

 

Because aftermarket gauges don't fit the stock cluster.

 

exactly the stock gauges are 5" and has 2 gauges within one circle. the aftermarkets are 2 1/16 and i already have a triple A pillar full of them as well as 3 more that i modded into the stock vent and radio trim seen in this link. u can see the oil pressure and water temp guages in the first link. these look exactly how u see them when the car is running. its annoying.

this is what i just fabbed up. for my extra gauges.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...255altered.jpg

this is my A pillar

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...118081552a.jpg

 

I have dual oil pressure guages on my car. I hooked them up behind the intake manifold useing a T and 2 male conntectors on each side. PLug both sending units in and both guages work great. I also couldnt stand the stock oil pressure gauge not working so i had to do it. All the parts can be found in the plumbing section at home depot or lowes. Next Im installing a 5" monster tach and both tachs will be working for sure. I think its just personal preference.

 

grrr, do u kno which it is? i dont want to have to take the sending unit there and fumble around for like 30min. so u got a brass T? and wat are the male connectors?

was the T the 1/8-27NPT? or was the T diff and u got 1/8-27NPT male fittings for the T? wish i had part numbers. or a pic of wat they look like

 

All the ports on the tee will be 1/8 NPT. Tees come in a variety of combinations of male and female ports, with names like "street tees" or "run tees" or "union tees" or "branch tees".

 

I just tied my ES gauage senderinto the old oil pressure port, put my old one into the oil port above the oil filter, i dont' run a oil cooler.

 

What you're looking for is an 1/8" female tee and an 1/8" hex nipple. You can get these in either brass or stainless steel. The 1/8" hex nipple is basiclly a very short piece of pipe that you'll thread into one side of the tee to then thread into the block. Be sure to use a thread sealant or teflon tape to prevent any leaks. Also, make sure you have enough clearance in the surrounding area for both sensors.

Like most people have posted, you'll find these parts available in any hardware store. I think most auto parts stores would have them, too. At least in brass.

 

thanks, im def gona have to go check around i guess. wish i had a pic tho so i knew wat to look for.esp the hex nipple thing. i think i have an idea of what it is tho. yea im def worried about there being enough clearance, i kno it was tight as is

 

The first image is what a tee and hex nipple looks like in brass. The tee could also have square sides instead of round - the function would be the same. If you're concerned about clearance, the hex nipple could be placed in any port of the tee if it helps solve the clearance issue.

The second image is of a hydraulic hose assembly that you could use to locate the tee to a more convenient location. The hose assembly would take the place of the hex nipple. Depending on exactly where the hose screws into the block, you may want to use a street elbow (3rd image - this is the square side version) to keep the hose assembly closer to the block and away from things like the exhaust.

If you can get the fittings in stainless, I'd recommend using that over brass. I had a brass fitting crack once for an oil pressure sending unit and it caused a big mess, to say nothing of the potential damage to the engine had I not caught it in time.

Note: The images are not all the same scale, but you can get all these items in an 1/8" thread.

 

Another option to relocate the tee is compression fittings and tubing. Although copper tubing is common and relatively inexpensive, I don't really recommend it b/c it gets brittle w/ age and vibration may cause it to crack. But, you can find other materials such as aluminum, steel (brake lines), or even nylon that may work depending where you need to route it. Just like the hydraulic hose, this takes the place of the hex nipple. You'll need two compression fittings, one for each end of the tubing. One will go into the block (or street elbow) and the other into the tee.

 

wow thanks 89irocz28. thats wat i was looking for. now say i wanted to route the second sender to a different place... i have tons of brake tubing, even 3/16 stainless tubing. i would need to just flare the tubing and get fittings for the TEE correct? now say i run this line and connect the sending unit remotly. this line is now filled with oil correct? will this affect oil flow/pressure at all?

i would rather connect the second sender remotly cuz i kno theres like no room behind the motor. even for the one sender.

these fittings are at home depot? lol i could check that out. thanks again guys

 

You're welcome.

If you go the hose or tubing route, you could put both sensors in the remote location. You'll just need to run the existing sensor wiring to the remote location.

The tubing fitting in the image above doesn't require flaring, it uses a ferrule (the small tapered brass ring near the end of the tubing) to create the seal. The 'nut' crushes the ferrule around the tubing and between the nut & the fitting. As you said, there are fittings available that require flaring just like fuel & brake lines. You could use that type of fitting as well.

I recommend filling the hose or tubing w/ oil. This will result in a more accurate reading.

Just so you don't go through too much trouble w/ hard steel lines, a mechanical oil pressure gauge I ran years ago on a '68 Roadrunner came w/ nylon tubing & brass fittings (come to think of it, these never broke). Just keep the tubing away from anything hot enough the melt it - primarily the exhaust.

The attached picture is from an Autometer gauge installation kit.

 

yea i kno that it crushes, i just call them crush fittings. i really dont trust them that much lol. so it would give me piece of mind if i had a flare fitting. i wouldnt mind bending sum stainless 3/16 brake line for the remote senders.... hmmm sounds like a plan. yea i dont trust the nylon tubing either and stainless looks good so i'll prob do that. so i should fill the tube with oil before i install it??? wouldnt it fill up with oil when the motors running? thanks again. how i just need to find the darn fittings lol

 

If you run the line to anything other than another part of the engine, remember to allow for flexing. Otherwise, anything other than hose or nylon tubing will eventually fail.

After you get everything installed, you can start the engine and crack open the line at the tee or even loosen one of the sensors until you get some oil. That'll make sure there isn't any air in the line.

 

yea i wouldnt have it run off the engine. i would attach it sumhow to the head or soemthing, or make a mount for it maybe by the valve cover.

lol id be too afraid to crack something open and get oil all over my new intake/heads/valvecovers, fresh paint firewall, and block etc....

 

there is no problem with compression fitting, chances are your toilet ,bathroom sink and kitchen sick lines all have em and been on there for years, , but you are really making too much work for yourself, just put the stock sending unit, back in its place and run the aftermarket sender to the side of the oil filter houseing, and you do not need a high pressure oil pump. A new stock one works perfect, chances are with a high pressure of high volume pump you will suck the oil pan dry and ruin the engine, Seen whay to maky folks do that. If you have low oil pressure, you need to step up to the next grade of oil. and if that doesn't work , you just need to plan on putting in some bearings.

 

the sending unit that fits above the oil filter is the oil pressure switch.... not gona take that out. im prob just gona run stainless line to an open area on the engine.... maybe down there by the oil filter .... hmmm.

yea i kno the highvolume oil pumps can suck the pan dry... well if ur using a stock pan. but the high pressure ones dont consume more oil than the stockers.... they just have a corvette spring in them that increased pressure... and i just want to make sure oil is getting to the lifters etc. im using a stock pan hopefully so i figured that in when i picked the pump. the engine that i toook out was 136,000 miles and had 10psi oil pressure at idle and 20psi driving around no matter the RPM. im sure it was the bearings and or pump.

new engine this high pressure pump is going in will be BRAND NEWW!! yay! fresh machined block, new bearings, and new stroker assembly. the only thing im using that was original was the block. so i got the high pressure cuz im sick of low oil pressure on my gauge and i dont want that in the new motor lol