can any one give me some info on changing the oil pan can it be done with engine and box in the car, i heard u have to set timing mark up?

car was jacked up and jack sank over night resting the engine on a axel stand which put a dent in the sump, its not bad but its where the oil pump is so worried to leave it

It can be done. You'll have to lift the engine off the chassis mounts to get clearance, which usually means it's a good idea to take the distributor cap off first. You need to turn the crank to a point where the front of the pan can get by the crank throws & counterweights.

idea, cheers ill have a go

That point is achieved when the timing mark on the balancer is in the 6 o'clock position.

ideal, ive just got the gasket kit, can i just change the sump gasket i dont need to change any other seals? as the kits got lots of gaskets in it

could you post a pic of just how bad things look

an oil pan is not a very hard job to do

if you are already there with the pan off go ahead and change the rear main seal if its a 2 piece seal on late model blocks

change the pump as well

its a 88 engine im just gonna change the pan gasket shurely it does not need the main oil seal changing

Let us know exactly what all you had to do to change the pan.

Sometimes it helps to unbolt the engine mounts, but only lift it on one side. The slight tilt can help with wiggling it out between the frame and crank weights.

just had to change the front main and rear main in my 91 both were leaking

unless the rear main seal and pump are less than 10,000 miles I would replace

after you see the amount of work you have to do in order to get the pan down you wont want to do it again

I would go ahead and change the chain as well

dont get me wrong I just like to replace as much of the wear out items as possible

not a fix it as it breaks kind of guy

He has a one piece rear main seal. a decent amount of work to change the seal over just an oil pan. Same for the timing set. Why take off all the accesories and whatnot to change a timing chain thats ok? Personally, i would turn it over and seeif anything is rubbing, then start it up and check the oil pressure. If it had adequate pressure, and kept it during acceleration like normal, I wouldnt mess with any of it. Its a dent, big deal.

i think its probably ok its not a huge dent but its where the oil pump is so would like to check it out.

this is a second hand engine ive put in that im gradually getting sorted, i turned it over by hand a couple times today its definatly not catching the sump.

the engines been sat a long time and its got no dizzy or inlet manifold on at the mo, should i be able to feel much compression when turned over by hand? it feels smooth i guess when its together and i go to start it, it will build up compression

pics

all I have to say is that I dont like to be in the same place twice

I like to build cars not take the pan off time and agian

While I understand what you're saying, changing the rms requires separation of engine and trans and removal of the flexplate.
The front seal and timing set requires the removal of the gear on the crank. To do this you need a puller. I don't know if there are smaller ones out there but my puller wouldn't fit unless I remove the radiator.
Lots of extra work.

im just gonna change the pan today, as ive never heard this engine run so, im thinking do the minimum untill i know everythings good