Rocker Arms
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Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 365
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From: Winnipeg, MB, Canada
Car: 1984 Camaro Z28 T-tops
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Rocker Arms
I've pretty much narrowed my selections for heads and cams down to the Patriot Performance 190cc Freedom Series Heads and either the Comp Cams XS268S or XS282S mechanical flat tappet cams. The heads have 3/8 inch studs, can I use the stock stamp steel rockers until I can afford an aftermarket set or do I need an aftermarket set to go with them? If I need an aftermarket set, would these Comp Cams magnum roller rockers work well? http://store.summitracing.com/partde...6&autoview=sku If not, or if you prefer a different kind, please let me know. Keep in mind I'm already spending close to $2600 CAD on this engine this summer not including these rockers, so please don't try to guide towards $1000 all out race pieces.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 46
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
The XS268 would be shaky with stock stamped rockers. Figure on needing aftermarket for the XS282 (that's a pretty big spread in cam choices, BTW).
The Pro Magnums are an excellent choice.
The Pro Magnums are an excellent choice.
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Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 365
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From: Winnipeg, MB, Canada
Car: 1984 Camaro Z28 T-tops
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Rocker Arms
Yeah, I thought those cams might be a little too much for the stock rockers. As for the spread, I couldn't find one in the Xtreme Energy line that was between those two. If there was, I'd opt for the one between them, or the larger one, unless cautioned against them.
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 4,803
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 365
Likes: 0
From: Winnipeg, MB, Canada
Car: 1984 Camaro Z28 T-tops
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Rocker Arms
Ah, stupid me to have forgotten that one. I've got it on one of my lists. Yes, I'll probably go for the XS274S, thank you.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 365
Likes: 0
From: Winnipeg, MB, Canada
Car: 1984 Camaro Z28 T-tops
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Rocker Arms
One more question, do I require any other bits to make these rockers work? Would I just slip them over the studs and tighten up the poly locks to the proper lash?
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 684
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From: Mesa AZ
Car: 87 Firebird, 90 bird coming soon
Engine: 355 Chevy Vortec Heads TPI, LT1 inj
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 posi 9-bolt
Re: Rocker Arms
Proform makes good roller rockers too. They cost less than $200 for a set of 16 with poly locks. Pretty much slip them on and do the adjustments to get them all set correctly. Should be all you need.
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Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 365
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From: Winnipeg, MB, Canada
Car: 1984 Camaro Z28 T-tops
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Rocker Arms
Are these the ones? http://store.summitracing.com/partde...4&autoview=sku If so, they're $100 cheaper, but they look heavier.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 46
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Yes, you can basically bolt the Pro Magnums on.
The Pro Magnums will fit under baffled valve covers, while the Proforms will not. The Pro Magnums will be stiffer (less flex) while having less rotating mass.
It's not a good way to save $100.
The Pro Magnums will fit under baffled valve covers, while the Proforms will not. The Pro Magnums will be stiffer (less flex) while having less rotating mass.
It's not a good way to save $100.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 365
Likes: 0
From: Winnipeg, MB, Canada
Car: 1984 Camaro Z28 T-tops
Engine: 350
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Rocker Arms
I thought not, thanks for the confirmation. I've often found you get what you pay for, I'll go with the pro magnums. Thanks again.
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Joined: May 2008
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From: Calgary
Car: 86 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: 305 TPI (retrofit)
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: Crappy stock 10-bolt gears
Re: Rocker Arms
Just came across these, i have no experience with 'em, they look to be well made pro magnum style roller rockers. And at a damn decent price!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-C...Q5fAccessories
-Z
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-C...Q5fAccessories
-Z
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 9,067
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From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
Re: Rocker Arms
Get the Comp ProMagnums... BEST rockers out there IMO. I have a set on my 350 and I love them. I've seen many aluminum rockers fail, but I've never heard of a ProMag failing... and I drove mine everyday for 2 years, even when it was -50*C, with my ProMagnums and a Comp XE274.
The only 'quirk' of the ProMagnums is that because of the massive bearing in the center, you need longer rocker studs to have an adequate number of threads engaged on the polylocks for them to tighten properly. I used normal length studs at first and the set screws went down into the polylock really deep. A couple weeks later, a polylock came loose and broke the top off the stud because it didn't have enough threads engaged. All the rest were still tight. Its possible its just because they were cheap parts store studs that the machine shop put in too though. I've heard of it happening from time to time to other people with stock length studs though.
Replaced the studs with a set from ARP that are something like 1/8" or so longer, and that made the polylock thread onto the stud enough to not cause any problems. Since then, I've never had to adjust them. I check periodically, but never needed to adjust. That was 3 years ago now, and it was a daily driver for 2 or those 3.
Get the ProMagnums and the longer ARP studs, and you'll be basically set for life. The PM rockers are fully rebuildable too, unlike almost all the others out there, so you'll really never need to replace them.
The only 'quirk' of the ProMagnums is that because of the massive bearing in the center, you need longer rocker studs to have an adequate number of threads engaged on the polylocks for them to tighten properly. I used normal length studs at first and the set screws went down into the polylock really deep. A couple weeks later, a polylock came loose and broke the top off the stud because it didn't have enough threads engaged. All the rest were still tight. Its possible its just because they were cheap parts store studs that the machine shop put in too though. I've heard of it happening from time to time to other people with stock length studs though.
Replaced the studs with a set from ARP that are something like 1/8" or so longer, and that made the polylock thread onto the stud enough to not cause any problems. Since then, I've never had to adjust them. I check periodically, but never needed to adjust. That was 3 years ago now, and it was a daily driver for 2 or those 3.
Get the ProMagnums and the longer ARP studs, and you'll be basically set for life. The PM rockers are fully rebuildable too, unlike almost all the others out there, so you'll really never need to replace them.
Last edited by Air_Adam; Feb 28, 2009 at 05:44 PM.
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