I've been having trouble getting my car started and I've checked everything from wiring to timing to shims, bought a new starter, and I realized that it's because the outboard bolt hole is cracked. I didn't think that was the problem because the crack is small, but now I know that has to be it.

I was wondering what I could do to have this repaired. I don't have much money to spare right now so I hope the solution to this problem doesn't cost much. Does anyone have an idea on how to repair this?

 

Is the hole in the starter or the threaded hole in the block that's cracked?

If it's the starter that's cracked, you can just replace the "nose" piece.

 

What is it doing exactly?

 

It's the threaded hole in the block that's cracked. I had an old starter on it at first. I had to put a shim on it to start up or else it would grind. Then, after a few times I had to put another shim...and so on. I bought a new starter and the same thing happened. I put one shim, it started fine 2 or 3 times, then I had to repeat the process.

 

If the block side is cracked, I think you're SOL. I don't think there's a good way to repair this. Grinding, welding, re-drilling and tapping might work, but it's a dicey proposition welding cast iron, IIRC. Got to find a real competent welder.

 

Mine cracked.
I posted pictures on the forum when I was fixing mine. Vader gave me some advice.
I had my engine disassembled on a stand though, that makes things easier.

I grinded a V, then pre-heated, then welded with high nickel rod.
You can braze it shut as an alternative as well.

One other tip I used, is to use a stud instead of a bolt there. This reduces stress on the block threads. Red loctite in a piece of grade 8 ready-rod, then put on the starter, line it up very very carefully, and tighten it down.

 

It can be a difficult repair if done in place. A stud might work.

The problem was common on '70s high core shift blocks:




Cleaning and nickel welding the failed area, then shot peining can solve the problem:




Scrape or machine the pad flat, and you're all set:

 

jb weld you a stud in there! Will work I promise, been there and done that. And the 70s block are notorius for it, this is so TRUE