M1tch

I've been having problems with my engine stalling after stopping at traffic lights. it will randomly stall and i can usually tell before it happens by the engine rpm surging from 1000-500. most of the time i put it in neutral and give it some gas to stop it from doing so but its becoming a pain in the ***. im always paranoid at every traffic light.. and my headers make my starter too hot so im scared ill be broke down someday in traffic.. any ideas? I have a holley 650 with a #34 or 36 squirter for the primaries. I'm guessing its either too much fuel or the lack of it. it runs at a consistant 6-7 psi. my cams not that big its a comp xr 270 with .502 lift. any suggestions would be appreciated, thanks!

lunaticinaZ

a vacuum leak can cause the irratic idle like that. or the idle could be set to low.

BigKeg

Do you have a vacum can hooked to the brake boster? I had the same thing happen, but differnt car. You can find them in JEGS and Summit for about $50.. Just make sure the check valves that do in line are the right way.. What can I say I was young and dume at one point, but we all learn.. Have fun

Justin1989

Same exact symptoms mine had. Sounds like a bad fuel pump bud. Mine would be misfiring and chopping all over the place and die, but if I put it in neutral and got it up to 5k RPMS it would smoothen out a little. It will keep doing that until the pump will start quitting.

I don't know if it's happened to you yet, but basically mine eventually started to die for 10-30 minutes at a time and if I tried to start it, it would be choppy and die. Put a new fuel pump in and it ran like new. Let me know!

M1tch

I have a fuel pressure regulator with a guage on it that says its at 6-8 psi. ive checked the fuel bowls and they have always been fine also. So the vaccuum cannister slowly takes vaccum so it doesnt rob enough to stall the engine?

Manic Z

iTrader: (1)

How's your timing set?

da_jester

yeah im having this same issue but mines a 305 tbi and all my vacuum stuff is good but i know my timing is out of wack check that.

BigKeg

I had a astro with a 355 and a big cam. Everytime I came to a stop the rpm would drop and I would stall. I put a can in line with the brake booster and all was fine. Beating ruststangs in a van was fun.

88irocamaro

Hey did you ever get this problem solved? My 88 Iroc is doing this to me right now I thought it was maybe my air supply? I've replaced so far my IAC,TPS, O2 sensor and still it does this? Would appreciate any info.

88irocamaro

BigKeg I don't suppose you could give us alittle more info about the brake booster and stuff?

M1tch

I'm ordering some parts tomorrow and i will see if all is well. I'm going to by a Vacuum Reservoir along with some new antifreeze because i have a bad mixture, and im going to wrap my headers.

* what header wrap works the best? I need to know asap im ordering it tomorrow morning. thanks!

BigKeg

If you look at your brake booster, you will see it has a hose on it. That go's from the booster to the back of the the intake someplace. ( differnt intakes differnt spots carbs are on the back of the carb ) but any way. The can looks like a big coffee can. Depending on where you put the new can, depends on how much new hose you need............. OK look at the booster, see the hose on the booster. The hose is hooked to a check valve, the check valve is pluged in to the booster. ( you will need another check valve to do this ) The check valve is a one way door, but allso it is a way to hook the hose to the booster and you will need to put one on the new can. So take the new can with the new check valve and hook up the hose that comes off the back of the block. The can will have 3 holes one for the new check valve, one for a gauge and the other you need to go from new can to the old check valve on the booster. Have fun.....

TZFBird

I was stalling at lights when at operating temp. Just got the motor in with a cam that is even smaller than yours though. I added about 5 degrees around idle and that has slowed the rapid climbing temp as well as stalling. I've even picked up a bit of vacuum.
I'd double check that and make sure your advance is working correctly.

AKA Greg

Did you ever solve this problem? Our 89 Camaro is doing the exact same thing (stalls at traffic lights). We changed the fuel pump when it went bad, rebuilt the Throttle Body, changed the fuel filter, new plugs and wires, new distributor and coil, then timed, and O2 sensor. She runs great but still stalls at lights & quick stops. Any help???

TZFBird

I'm on a truck forum also and a guy on there has a similar problem and thinks it might be the ignition module because it is getting very hot. So, maybe pull it and take it in to be tested. Most parts stores have a test bench. I know Oreillys and Advance have them.

AKA Greg

Thanks for the info, but we changed the distributor and ignition module last year, along with the coil. We rebuilt the throttle body and replaced both injectors. We replaced several sensors including the O2 sensor. We had a new fuel pump installed. Also replaced all of the spark plugs and wires. And it is timed perfectly.
Someone told me it could be the torque converter in a transmission. If the torque converter is going bad, it could make it stall. Is that true? I've never experienced a bad torque converter.

~G

AKA Greg

Well, it warmed up here in Ohio during February and we put the new 2500 converter in the RS and adjusted the idle (along with front and back seals and new trans filter). What a difference! No stalling and the shifting is great. Can't wait until Summer!