I'm thinking of going old school with this engine rebuild. I'll be keeping the 305 and bore, balance, blueprint, then taking the crank from the old 265ci (if that works) or just going and having a new crank made that's lighter and shallower than the 305 crank. Now, with this, what valve train would be the best suggestion to use, and cam, and so on and so forth for the rest of the engine. Or if anyone has any other ideas on what else I could do to the original 305 block. I have been thinking about stroking it to. I personally think destroking it would be better off, but any and all input on the matter would be great. Thanks.

 

Chevy already beat you to it with the gen II 4.3L L99 v8. It used a 305 bore with a 3 inch stroke. they used 5.94 inch rods so that they would not have to move piston pin location, therefore being able to use 305 pistons for the motor.

 

ok knowing this how much does this engine cost? plus i love getting my hands dirty or would it just be cheaper for me to do all the work?

 

L99 swap is exactly the same as an LT1 swap - its a Gen II engine.

 

It sounds like you would just be making the 305 even crappier, unless you just want a cheap motor that will rev to a billion RPM. If you really want to use a 305 block, IMO the obvious thing to do is stroke it.
You couldn't use a 265 crank, or any pre-'68 SBC crank, since they have smaller rod and main journals. You would need bearing spacers or adapter bearings.
Anyways, why a 305 block? Do you already have one, or...???? A 350 can be built for the same cost as a 305, and you'll make more power.

 

Yeah....why in the world would you want to do this? Sounds like a horrible waste of money.

 

I want to try and keep it as original as I can. A 350 may come into play later on down the road since the 92s did come with them. i've seen in a gm high tech perf. magazine that they had a 500hp 305 on pump gas. that's what i hope to accomplish with this one. my wife gave me the green light to. i am able to to put about 25000 into the car. and i want the engine to prove it. any other ideas for a built to the hilt 305?

 

Ideas? Smallblock? 25G?!?!?!?!?!?!!?!??!?
Maybe some stuff like this:
http://summitracing.com/parts/AFR-1121/
http://www.sdparts.com/product/CAJ11...rankshaft.aspx
Possibly:
http://summitracing.com/parts/VOR-4GF218-068SQ/
With $25,000, 500hp should be no problem.

 

Id like to see that article.

Truth is, 500 hp is a stretch for a 383 on pump gas, much less a 305. You can make decent power from a 305 but you will need to keep your expectations realistic.

 

if i had that kind of money to dump, it'd have a big block or a really nasty LSx motor

 

you can put the L99 crank and rods in any '87-up block, so your project is feasible. However, this crank is cast or nodular, so 500 hp n/a is unlikely because that crank won't take many trips past 6500 rpm. The L99 rods are fine past 7000 with ARP bolts in them, especially since smaller-bore pistons are lighter. But if you're gonna buy lightweight pistons, you may as well go to 6.25" rods then use pistons for a 6" rod in a 305.

 

Stroking a 305 is pearls on a swine.

Destroking a 305 is turning an already 98-pound weakling SBC into a eunuch.

Neither one meets your goal of keeping the car "original", so why are you even considering these options? A built 350 looks just like a built 305.

I've seen 400 HP 305, but never 500 NA. It would be a street pig and would get its head handed to it on the track.

Not sure what your real goals are, but everything you've mentioned as a possible plan is in direct contradiction to your stated goal.

If you've got $25k and want to build something to the hilt, put in an LSx. IF you want to get your money's worth, anyway.

For the record, a 265 crank is 2-piece rear main seal and small journal (would require special main bearings, old rods, rear main seal adapter, and the harmonic damper would probably be a challenge).

 

Here is Five7's explanation in pictures:

What you want to build with this project -



What you will end up with -




I'm not trying to make fun, just being realistic here. I agree totally with Five7.

 

That was good, Adam. That was good.

 

Can't polish a turd unless you are on MythBusters.

 

+stroke it

 

I lol'd

And another vote for what five7 said.

 

i agree, stroke the 305, dont de stroke it, youll only end up with a 4 thousand dollar paperweight. i suggest stroking it or just getting a 350 and stroking that.

 

ok. since everyone seems to agree that the destroke and the stroking of the 305 is pretty much worthless, what is this LSx engine i've heard about? any links i can go see to take a look?

 

LS engines are the new small blocks.

 

First hit when "ls1 engine" Googled:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_LS_engine

 

we have a complete sub forum in the engine swap section on LSx swapping. even a 5.3 with an LS6 manifold and thunder or texas speed 220 or 224 cam would be a blast.

 

so having 25k at my disposal....what LS engine would everyone recommend? keep in mind i want to do the suspension and other fun stuff.

 

An LS3 with at least a 220/232 duration cam, pushrods, and COMP 26918 springs will easily exceed 600 HP, and still exceed 20 mpg. It really wants 1.875" headers, but we're stuck with 1.75". Oh well, close enough.

 

ok. are there any possibilities of boring the LS3 or getting new heads and intakes and things like that. i want all natural aspiration. so anything to get that hp out and on the road will help

 

no really please don't send him our way.

a fool and his money are soon parted.
You have a 4thgen lt1 and yet you never even heard of an ls1?
let's be honest. ls1 swap>then your ability

For 25K you can ship your car stateside and I'll swap it in for you and send it back.

 

go to ls1tech and do some...make that a sh!tload of reading. they have a huge pool of information that you can hopefully tap into. then once you've figured out what you need for a motor and have much further educated yourself then you'll be able to come back over and start looking into how to make the ls motor fit into your third gen. good luck to you

 

Okay. first of all i know what the LS motors are. I just thought the LSX was something else i didn't realize at first that the X stood for a number but now i see it does. a while ago. also for your information I have plenty of ability. A few frame of restorations with 60s cars random other car ****. I did all the work on my 4th gen myself. I'm just looking for information on where to start smart ***.

 

Please don't read my very detailed write up on ls1 swaps that's found in the sticky at the top of the forum labeled ltx and lsx lest you gain some knowledge from a smart ***

 

Very well, my bad. I usually don't look around for the answers right away. I just make a thread and hope to get answers. Thanks Aaron.

 

25k to spend? Get an LS7... 7.0L of LSx engine fury!

 

another quick question. with the LSx engines. are all the blocks the same size just bored out and stuff like that or is it the actual block that gets bigger as the liters go higher?

 

OK i have a bored and stroked 305 with nice cam roller rockers and ported and polished HO 305 heads with larger valves put in there. on the desktop dyno it says i am around 340 hp and 360 tq, and it will launch my 84 TA down the quarter in -+ 13.75. if you destroked a 305 your torque would fall through the floor, and you would have to rev it up to 6000+ rpm to make any horse power, at that rate you would be rebuilding it every couple of years or sooner depend on how often you launch hard

If any thing destroke a 350 to 327 still has a 4" bore, and 3.25" stroke instead of a 3.48

 

Depends if it is a big block or small block

the only difference in a 305 vs 350 is the bore size 305 has 3.75" i believe, and a 350 has a 4" and to answer your question yes they pretty much are identical on the outside

and it is the same for the LSx engines

 

$21 grand will buy you an LS9 from GM, the last four would get it installed.

 

I would have to say that that's a bit extravagant for me. but that would be badass. So I'm guessing that an LS engine would be my best bet? or should i still go for the boring and stroking of my 305 and so on.

 

Big block/small block doesn't apply, since he's asking specifically about LSx series engines (LSx engines are called the Gen III/IV small block, technically)

To answer your question, the external dimentions of the block to not change. Just the bore and stroke changes, though they do use different blocks for different bore sizes (for example, a 5.3L block cannot be bored to the stock bore size of a 6.0L, as the 6.0L is cast with a bigger casting core for the cylinders, even though the external dimentions remain the same.)

Build an LS motor - you can get regular ones like the 5.3L and the iron block 6.0L for very cheap, and both have LOTS of performance potential. The iron block engines typically cost less than the aluminum block engines like the LS1 and LS2 engines, but there is absolutely no drawback to using the iron blocks, except for a few pounds of extra weight.

Go to a salvage yard and get a 6.0L truck engine, and add and LS1 or LS6 intake manifold and F-body throttle body and exhaust manifolds and you'd have a pretty healthy setup. Even with their small cams, the stock 6.0L truck engines were advertised at 340hp/380ft-lbs IIRC. That wouldn't really change with the LS1/LS6 intake, but you need that manifold to fit it under the stock hood. Truck intake is good, but too tall.

 

Thanks Adam for going into a more detailed response I got called to a fire and didn't get to go over older big blocks or Ls engines

 

what's the cost for the 6.0L truck engine at a junk yard. is it safe to say that it's about 2000 or where abouts?

 

You know, I've thought just for giggles about building up a Baby Lt1 and slapping a turbo on it to spin the **** out of it. I can pick up one complete around here for 150 bucks. Hell or even putting a regular 305/350 crank and making a 5.0 LT1. I know it wouldn't make a boatload of power but it would be a fun project in a light weight vehicle.

 

I browsed through real quick and didn't see anyone mention building a modern day 302? Use the L99 crank and rods in a 350 block with 4.0" bore, you have yourself a 1-pc rear main seal 302, alot cheaper than an original chevy 302 at that. This is going to be my engine route for my 68' down the line. On the 25K route, instead of buying an expensive LS engine stock, just build a 6.0 liter, turbocharged etc, make more power, less money.

 

For engine, transmission, PCM, harness, et al, maybe. The engine alone will go for a lot less.

 

Shoot, even out here in California you can pick up 6.0's for around $600 including wiring. five7kid has it right that with EVERYTHING, maybe 2 grand but I'm sure you could find a better deal.