Ok, so now that the transmission is all set, I have an engine related question.

The car runs great now when first started, fixed the 34 code, bad connection at MAF. Once the car heats up, and sounds like it hits closed loop (rpm drop from 1000 or so down to 5-600,) the car starts to sound like it stumbles some and has more cam than it really does. It then stumbles more like it has no gas, then shuts off. Restarts, lightly press the accelerator, will not go up in RPMS, car shuts off. I can then restart it again, stumbles and shuts off.

Ok, any idea? Bad gas that has sat in there for a few months? Cylinder missing in closed loop? Injectors? Point me in the right direction and I'll do the work ) I did some searches and read about scanning, logging, fuel injectors, bad O2 sensors. I should note the 02 sensor in terms of miles is new, the connection looks sketchy, a bit melted but still connected. If the suggestion is to log, where would you suggest is the best place $ wise to get a cable and d.l. software?

Thanks Guys! You're the best, I refuse to junk this car c

 

Ok I need to edit up a bit.
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With the Maf unplugged, the car runs fine, the idle is off a bit and it runs rich but it can drive and does not try to shut off at all and throws the 34 code. Now, with the Maf plugged in, the car does not want to stay on, it has a baaad idle, try to give a bit of gas and shuts off, stalls right out.

Now, with the Maf plugged in, when I put the jumper in the A+B to see if there are codes, the check engine light does not blink the 12 or anything else, doesn't even light the C.E. at all. If I pull the Maf harness, it will at least give the 12 and the 34 as normal.

Sometimes even plugged in I know the harness/plug would get loose and I would have to push on the harness into the Maf plug, and push the wires in a bit, could this be my problem? I looked over my lines and I dont see any problems with the vacuum lines, plenty of gas in the car. I should note, car has always ran fine w/out a vats key. It has the column from a 85 camaro non vats. Last column was broken and could start it with no key at all, turned right over. I thought I read something about air getting in somewhere after the Maf, but it is pretty tight, I can't hear any air leaks.

Not many things could make me cry, but she might be able to. I just want to drive it with the th350 full manual. I haven't driven an Iroc Camaro since October of 2002.

Thank you everyone!

 

Sounds like you need a new MAF. Knew a guy in tech. school who's car wouldn't start at all. Checked filter made sure we had fuel at injectors, checked spark, etc. Got it to start if pedal was held to floor and made it to the auto shop (would die if it got below 1500rpm I think). After about 10 minutes of looking they unplugged the MAF and it fired right up. That would be the first thing I would look at replacing.

You might also want to check the IAC. If that is stuck(carbon buildup) and will not open far enough you wont have any air for startup or idle.

 

Afraid of that, I was wondering if it could be a Maf not throwing codes, or an o2 sensor that is not throwing codes but could still be bad. Can someone key me in on which cable to buy and what software to buy so that I can do a diagnostic check and see what everything is at voltage and whatnot? I never had much success with a volt meter probing the Maf or the TPS sensor. I figure software on a laptop and a cable should do the same thing right?

If the Maf tests bad, I think I'll have to look at going to speed density, I don't like the maf sensor up front there anyway, would give me some freedom for some things I want to do.

 

Well, I was bored today waiting for my chem lab so I decided to call Advance Auto, and I ordered a Micro-Tech MAF, non programmable (after reading feedback on it). Can't go wrong with a life-time warranty! As long as the company is still around I can replace it for freeeee. Sounds good. Well, we'll see if that helps, and I will let you all know how it goes.

 

Well, even though only one person responded, just want to say thank you; affirmed, supported what I thought and it was it. Put the new Micro-Tech MAF in, and the car started up no problem and idles great. I just need to set the idle now and get her set. I'll be doing that all tomorrow, buffing the paint out and hopefully registering next week )

I hope the previous owner who died while in the process of putting her back together can see how much work I've done. It means a lot to me to finally be able to put this car on the road and to go for a cruise (I hope.) I bought it from an estate sale for $400 back in 99/2000.

The guy owned a body shop in Charlotte/Rochester NY. I saw his work and I was thoroughly impressed. Its not perfect, but I hope if he can see, that he gets a smile out of it. I took the rebuilt engine/trans/rearend/dash/ and such from an 88 hard top that was too rusted for my taste that I bought for $1800 and put that all in the 85 w/ttops. Did a bunch of welding, boxing in suspension parts and engine porting to fit my tastes and keeping it functional. A few grand later in parts and paint and while its not a LS 4th gen, it'll be fun.

Thanks to everyone over the years who has helped, I'm sure I'll have a few more questions, but it looks like (fingers crossed) that I'm on the home stretch. Can't decide between painted aluminum door skins or the stock door panels. Hmmm. May go painted aluminum, I just put sheet panels over the holes left from removing the AC/Heat