I have a 1983 Camaro Z28 with Cross Fire Injection. Rebuilt a 1987 305 block, bored 30 over with double hump heads, rebuilt the trans with a shift kit, have a super coil and new distributor that came off an LT1 (have had same problem with the stock coil and distributor set up prior), have already replaced the Idle Air controls, the sensor on the side of the throttle body (tired and can't think of which dang sensor it is right now, but all sensors were replaced on the block also) plugs and wires again, cant figure out what to do next. When I set the timing it runs good until it gets hot and then stalls out. It will jerk and act up and if I give it gas I can keep it from stalling out until some slow poke gets in front of me and I have to let up and then it dies. I can't figure out what to do next????

 

Distributor off of an LT1???

 

Coil I should say and keep in mind I have replaced the original coil, rotor and distributor 2 times previously with stock and it has made no difference. The problem has been consistent no matter what all I have done so I haven't figured out exactly what to replace or set different yet. This super coil came off an LT1 motor, out of a corvette, and again, has made no difference. I am wondering if it is the ECM or maybe the injectors since I have read someone else found that if the injectors don't test at 11 ohms they were having stalling problems but they had a different car so not sure...I have cross fire injection and from what I have learned they are pretty unique. Already replaced the Throttle position sensor, it tests on the low end of the exceptable range and I can't bring it up to the higher end. Replaced the Idle air controls, they were pretty trashed. It ran good for a few days and then back to the same problem...some of this problem has to be due to the build up caused by bad fuel and air mix. Just can't figure out what is causing that. Thanks!

 

This ended up being the electrical connection to the heat sensor, located on the top front of the engine. This was due to a defect in the design since the connection was not made for high heat and has a reputation for melting and causing the stalling problem. I also found out that these cars were designed with a "limp home mode" programmed into the ECM to allow you to run the vehicle until a certain temperature and then it would cut off to protect the motor. You can restart and "limp home" this way. Now I desperately need help with hooking up the EGR and MAP sensors properly, diagrams haven't helped because what's under the hood is different, 83 car to an 87 motor and the EGR can has different connections than what diagrams show and there is no EGR solenoid but there is a place for one. Any advise would be good, thanks!