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can anyone tall me about this block/ setup?

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Old Sep 29, 2009 | 04:14 PM
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From: Lyles, TN
Car: 84, 99 Trans Am
Engine: 305 G, LS1
can anyone tall me about this block/ setup?

Had the car checked out and it was said to be o.k. just timing changed bad. anyway, I was wondering if anyone could tell me about the setup I have. I don't know much about it. I was told it has a magnum block and I have the paperwork for it. said it has a RV cam with oversized valves. I have shorty headers and all new exhaust with dynomax muffler right now. Edelbrock 600 carb. no emissions. can anyone tell me anything about this setup I have? I can't find anything or any info on this type of block or performance I can expect out of it. The guy that put the engine in just said it should put out around 300 hp now. it's and 84 T/A that had the L69 G engine originally.

Last edited by 99transamgirl; Sep 30, 2009 at 08:49 PM. Reason: had car checked out
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Old Sep 30, 2009 | 08:51 PM
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From: Lyles, TN
Car: 84, 99 Trans Am
Engine: 305 G, LS1
Re: can anyone tall me about this block/ setup?

the guy said my valves etc. are fine. Just timing way off. can anyone tell me about my setup I have?
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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 10:49 AM
  #3  
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Re: can anyone tall me about this block/ setup?

You made a good effort to tell us all you could, but what we need is going to take a little more trouble. First, a "Magnum" engine is either a Mopar product, or some small rebuilder thought it would be a good name for his personal touch. I suspect the second possibility is what you have. So, we need some casting numbers. First, pop the valve covers and get us the casting numbers for the heads. New gaskets are just $10, and they come in pairs, so pop both covers to make sure both heads are the same. The casting number is usually 6 or 8 numbers long. You may need a small wire brush if there's much crud accumulated there. Also, are the valve covers the center bolt style, or the older style with perimeter bolts? There should be 4 bolts either way. You'll also get to see what you have in the way of valve springs and rocker arms. Next, we'll need the casting number for the block. It's a little challenging, but look down from above, just behind the driver's-side head. There should be an 8-digit number there, and if it's a later block, it should also say either 5.0LG or 5.7LG.
Also, check the intake manifold, and see if it has anything on it besides the cylinder numbering and firing order. That's the 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 that you should find on it.
If you can get us that information, we'll have a better shot at telling you more of what you want to know.
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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 02:15 PM
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From: Lyles, TN
Car: 84, 99 Trans Am
Engine: 305 G, LS1
Re: can anyone tall me about this block/ setup?

Here's some more info I didn't add. I still have my original head from my 305. not sure if they were bored out. I was told that the engine, before it went, had been bored out 30 over. my heads were in great shape so they sent them off to be redone and cleaned. my intake is also still stock. The block is from Grooms engines in Nashville TN. It is a new block. When I put in the part number it comes up as a magnum engine block for an 84 t/a as well as other cars. I knew the guy that put put the engine in said it was a magnum block but didn't know what that really meant other than he said yesterdya it's made to run harder and the car was built to drive harder than your normal t/a. He told me not to baby the car and really drive it. even though I only 5,000 miles on the engine it was already getting carbon build up. my valve cover bolt in 4 places on the outer edge of the covers.

as for my oil leak around the flywheel cover, whick we've had ever since the engine was put in, the guy said it was leaking oil b/c the carb was leaned out and colasping the pcv valve forcing oil out. he said it was my fault for tuning the screws on the carb. I didn't have the car leaned all the way out. I tuned it just like the Edelbrock dvd said to help save on gas but not run so lean it runs rough. It didn't look like he touched the crews either. If it was my fault for tuning the thing then how come it was leaking since day one of the engine. He told us, when we said it was leaking after the new engine that the rear main seal just needed to seat itself and it would stop but never has. It's not a bad leak just enough to annoy me. I know what I'm doing with the carb andhe seemed to treat me as if I was stupid and didn't know anything about cars. He was the one who didn't put a fuel filter in our line and said oh the carb. has one built in it. NOPE!!!! We had to buy an inline one just like the edelbrock manual says to do b/c we got crap in the carb within a few days and clogged it up. anyway just venting now. sorry
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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 04:30 PM
  #5  
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Re: can anyone tall me about this block/ setup?

Again, the "Magnum" designation has NOTHING to do with our cars or our engines. Mopar used it. And you sure didn't put 305 heads on a Mopar block. Now, it's still not clear if you actually have a 350 or if you're just running a rebuilt 305. If it's a rebuilt 305, it'll never impress anyone, and is not worth spending any money on. Your stock intake manifold is a serious choker. Even on a stock L69, an Edelbrock Performer EGR #3701 is worth 25 HP by 5000 rpm.
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Old Oct 1, 2009 | 04:51 PM
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From: Lyles, TN
Car: 84, 99 Trans Am
Engine: 305 G, LS1
Re: can anyone tall me about this block/ setup?

I'll see what I can find on it. The intake is our next step so we don't have to have a spacer between the carb. It is a 305. all I know right now is that everything is new internally and externally except our heads and intake. heads were redone and put on new block. I'll see if I can find some numbers. Thanks
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Old Oct 2, 2009 | 10:24 PM
  #7  
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Re: can anyone tall me about this block/ setup?

Originally Posted by 99transamgirl
It is a new block. When I put in the part number it comes up as a magnum engine block for an 84 t/a as well as other cars.
Highly unlikely it is a new block;
most likely a rebuild using a old 305 block
What is the magnum number you refer to?

Last edited by vetteoz; Oct 2, 2009 at 10:28 PM.
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Old Oct 3, 2009 | 12:03 AM
  #8  
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From: Lyles, TN
Car: 84, 99 Trans Am
Engine: 305 G, LS1
Re: can anyone tall me about this block/ setup?

It is C 305M-2-3M-L off my warranty paper says this is the part number and when I type it into the Grooms Engine website that's what pulls up.
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Old Oct 3, 2009 | 12:21 AM
  #9  
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Re: can anyone tall me about this block/ setup?

Originally Posted by 99transamgirl
It is C 305M-2-3M-L off my warranty paper says this is the part number and when I type it into the Grooms Engine website that's what pulls up.
They are engine rebuilders so block is used not new.
Site doesn't give any information abouut engine; cam specs etc.
"Magnum" is their own in house name , nothing to do with GM
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Old Oct 3, 2009 | 10:30 AM
  #10  
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From: Lyles, TN
Car: 84, 99 Trans Am
Engine: 305 G, LS1
Re: can anyone tall me about this block/ setup?

Thanks, I was going by the guy that built our engine. he told us the block was new and he was the one who built the engine.
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Old Oct 3, 2009 | 12:49 PM
  #11  
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Re: can anyone tall me about this block/ setup?

Originally Posted by 99transamgirl
It is C 305M-2-3M-L off my warranty paper says this is the part number and when I type it into the Grooms Engine website that's what pulls up.
so it's just a lame 305. there's nothing about it worthy of any interesting name like Magnum.
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Old Oct 3, 2009 | 01:32 PM
  #12  
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Re: can anyone tall me about this block/ setup?

Originally Posted by 99transamgirl
as for my oil leak around the flywheel cover, whick we've had ever since the engine was put in, the guy said it was leaking oil b/c the carb was leaned out and colasping the pcv valve forcing oil out. he said it was my fault for tuning the screws on the carb. I didn't have the car leaned all the way out. I tuned it just like the Edelbrock dvd said to help save on gas but not run so lean it runs rough. It didn't look like he touched the crews either. If it was my fault for tuning the thing then how come it was leaking since day one of the engine. He told us, when we said it was leaking after the new engine that the rear main seal just needed to seat itself and it would stop but never has. It's not a bad leak just enough to annoy me. I know what I'm doing with the carb andhe seemed to treat me as if I was stupid and didn't know anything about cars. He was the one who didn't put a fuel filter in our line and said oh the carb. has one built in it. NOPE!!!! We had to buy an inline one just like the edelbrock manual says to do b/c we got crap in the carb within a few days and clogged it up. anyway just venting now. sorry
Yea that business on the PVC valve is bs. Maybe im missreading it or maybe he miss spoke but the PVC dosnt work based on a AF ratio. It works on the pressure differential of the crank case vs the vacuum line going to the PVC valve. Engine vacuum is related to the AF ratio but it would have to be way out of whack to cause a PVC system to fail completely and even then if the pressure inside the motor built up enough to push oil out past a seal it would have overcome the PVC valve first. Also even on cars where the PVC valve is working there are situations where the PVC valve can be overwhelmed such as full throttle. This is why on many systems the breathers are vented into the air cleaner. The breather not only is designed to allow fresh air in but also in the event that too many blow by gasses build up in the crank case allows them to vent out. Thats why later modle engines breathers are vented into the intake so even in the event of blow by gasses blowing out the breather it overflow into the intake and is burnt anyways. So basically oil leaks dont happen as result of too much pressure in the crank case because a PVC valve failed as the crank case should be vented anyways. If it is leaking as result of too much crank case pressure the motor was not built right either allowing far too much blow by gasses by poorly seated rings or the PVC/breather system is not set up correctly. I mean it dosnt even make sence there are a lot of cars that run lean due to failure or improper tuning and they dont just start leaking all over the place. As for the fuel filter in the carb some factory carbs are like that. I dont know of any aftermarket carbs that are and for someone who builds high performance "magnum" motors they really should have known that edelbrocks dont have an internal filter. Course again he may have been confused ad talking about the wrong carb. Course he may not have a clue what hes talking about either. If the motors leaking and under warranty take it back and cram it down his throte because whenever you try to claim warranty work they will find a reason to deny you you just have to argue enough. Be courteous but dont take no for an answer. I cant stand it when buisnesses try to dodge their obligations. Especially when they give a bogus reason like that.
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Old Oct 4, 2009 | 12:10 AM
  #13  
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Re: can anyone tall me about this block/ setup?

The rear main seal does not need to "seat". That's some bullshit.

You paid for a fresh motor, it should NOT leak. And the pcv valve has nothing to do with that.

http://www.groomsengines.com/

These are the *******s blaming you for their shitty craftsmanship right? Claiming that it's a "new" block? What a bunch of douches.

Here's the page on the motor he has:

http://grooms.mycarparts.com/products/170

Beside it, it lists "C305M-2-3M-L Engine Long Block GMC C1500 Suburban (Truck) 1981 5.0L V8 305 CID; Chevrolet Version; VIN G; Right Dipstick. "Magnum" Engine. May require aftermarket computer chip."

And right here is a list of all the cars they think the engine should go into:

http://grooms.mycarparts.com/products/170/buyersguides

And of course they all say "magnum" like it's something official. This particular one just seems like a low compression 305 from a truck.

Last edited by InfernalVortex; Oct 4, 2009 at 12:17 AM.
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Old Oct 4, 2009 | 08:45 AM
  #14  
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Re: can anyone tall me about this block/ setup?

Hmmmm. Leaning the idle screws on the carb caused the rear main seal to fail???? Hey, this guy wasn't trying to sell you any real estate or anything too, was he???? A rear seal leaks either because something is machined improperly or the seal was installed improperly!!!!

I really hate it when clowns like this alleged engine guy take advantage of people!!! As others have said, this guy is really talking some bs trying to shift the blame from him for shoddy worksmanship on the engine.... I sure do know where I'd like to stick the old seal when I changed it!!!!!
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Old Oct 4, 2009 | 12:35 PM
  #15  
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From: Lyles, TN
Car: 84, 99 Trans Am
Engine: 305 G, LS1
Re: can anyone tall me about this block/ setup?

thanks for the info on the oil leak guys. I really appreciate it. We do have higher oil pressure than we use to. we have 10w-30 oil in it and it runs around 75 for about 10 minutes then drops to 60 for the rest of the time. Not sure what our pressure should be but that's where it stays when it's in drive. in park I think it's around 40.
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Old Oct 4, 2009 | 02:07 PM
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Re: can anyone tall me about this block/ setup?

the PCV valve help to vent crankcase pressure and burn off buildup of fumes inside the engine that can cause deterioration to engine parts and seals.

If the PCV is not operational, over a long period of time it can cause oil leaks. If the engine is newish, that shouldn't be an issue.

your pressure is fine, if you are reading that from the factory guage, it doesnt mean much, the factory guages are not know for their accuracy. The guage will only really tell you when you have oil, and when you dont.
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