Was driving and ended up between gas stations on empty...I thought I had incredible luck because the car started to sputter and a gas station had just appeared and I thought if I can just make it...well I sputtered into the gas station way below empty and thought, "that was lucky". I started the car after filling and noticed it was still missing and although it was idling (at first) when I gave it the gas it missed as if it were not getting any fuel...this went on for a few minutes. Then I shut the car off and restarted and it did the same thing...choppy idle..and acted like it was going to die if I gave it the gas but would return to idling choppy. I then turned it off one more time and it wouldn't start..and hasn't since.

I can't hear the fuel pump priming anymore at all. Normally every time I cycle the key on and off I can hear the fuel pump charge and prime for a few seconds...now there is silence.

Suspect a dead fuel pump but just want to ask if the fuel pump relay would cause this or be a suspect too????

Thanks

 

Yes, relay could be the culprit - swap it with the cooling fan relay and see if that works - then you'll know you need another relay.

Also, check the fuse that is tucked in the fenderwell behind/beside the battery - it controls fuel pump functions as well.

Might need to look into a new fuel filter as well - if you let it go empty, and there was trash in the tank (older car means likely trash), then you could have a larger chunk blocking fuel in the filter.

And make a sig or update your data so we know what year/model/engine/induction you have - makes it easier to help you with things.

 

Thanks I have been reading your posts and it seems that I have the same issue. I am going to do the relay swap and see if there is any pressure at the rail. My car is a 91 with 50K original miles on it...only owner. Everything is pretty cherry as it has been garaged since 1994.

Pretty sure it is the fuel pump as there is no noise...but I will jumper out the OPSU as you outlined to see if it triggers the pump on. I have replaced the fuel pump in my 2000 camaro by cutting an access door from the trunk area...I will not go that route with this car as I have not changed anything on it except for the muffler...so I will do it the right way.

 

If you put 12 volts to the pump, go to the back of the car and unplug the fuel pump connector to verify you have 12 volts (or near that) at the fuel pump body connector. I just went throught this on sunday. Had voltage everywhere, no pump. Replaced the pump and she started right up.

 

Where is the fuel pump connector? Normally they are on top of the fuel pump which in this case would be inaccessible until I drop the tank...right?

 

Crawl underneath and look. It's right in front of the tank. You do not have to pull the tank to disconnect it and check voltage. I would never tell you to do this if you had to drop the tank first to check voltage.

 

No problem I just didn't know where it was at...no need to crawl I have a lift. So I will check as you suggested and report back on my findings. I plan on troubleshooting the problem this weekend.

I will use my multimeter vs. a test light. Did you go pin to pin on the connector (assuming it's a two pin connector type) or did you go pin to another ground source? I am thinking it should be 12vdc pin to pin as would normally send and return in the circuit but when connected it obviously would go through the pump?

right?

 

It's a 3 pin connector. I jumpered the aldl connector with 12 volts, then went back and checked til I found the pin with voltage. I used an external ground source.

 

Is the aldl connector that you are referencing the OPSU connector? Trying to figure out what to jumper in the engine bay so that I get the 12vdc back at the fuel pump connector. Thanks for the info too.

 

It's the "Assembly Line Diagnostic Link' connector where you plug in to scan and check codes. Bottom left pin you apply 12 volts to. You can do it from the engine bay also. Was just easier and quicker for me to do it from the ALDL connector.

 

Oh so it is the OBD I port, got it. Did you just run a wire from the battery over to the bottom wire (L) of the OBD I port?

 

Yes that's exactly what I did. But wasn't just a wire, and a 10 amp fuse in line just in case.

 

OK here is what I did so far.

I can hear the fuel pump relay clicking, I also swapped the relays as suggested and both of them click. So the relays are working.

My ALDL does not have a lower left pin it is empty. I did however jumper the two top right pins and read the codes. I get a code 46 which I see is VATS but I don't think it is a VATs issue as I had been driving the car for an hour when the car start to sputter and die...and as I mentioned it was below E and I thought I was out of gas. It was after I filled up and it still acted the same that I started thinking it was the fuel pump.

What I do know is that the Fuel Pump is not priming at all...there is no sound.

I tried running a 12vdc Hot Wire to the ALDL connector and when I stuck it in the far pin connector on the right...I did this thinking that maybe you were looking at the connecector upside down and thought it was the lower left since it was the top right...and the hot lead turned bright red instantly and obviously it was a ground...a little smoke puffed for a few seconds but I didn't see any melted wires...so hopefully I didn't "F" up anything.

I did find the fuel pump connector and tried putting the hot lead to one of the pins and the most voltage I got at the fuel pump connector as I went across the connector pins was 6 vdc on the middle pin of the fuel pump connector.

I jumpered two pins on the OPSU connector while it was disconnected (down by the oil filter) the jumper paper clip read 12vdc across but I didn't get 12vdc on the fuel pump connector....I need to know safely which pin to apply the 12vdc to on the ALDL to get power on the FP connector as I only could get 6vdc.

I still think it is the fuel pump as it was going bad as I was driving and then only started one time after before never starting again and then not priming.

Still looking for answers...I also get oil pressure on the guage when I crank so I don't think it is an OPSU. The Code 46 kind of threw me for a loop...but how could the VATS go bad while driving and cause the issue?