Engine Rebuild
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Member
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 205
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From: Yakima,WA
Car: 1982 Camaro z-28
Engine: 307
Transmission: th-350 with stage 2 shift kit
Axle/Gears: stock
Engine Rebuild
I decide to just do a complete rebuild on my 1982 Z-28 Camaro 4 Speed Manual 305. I've never rebuilt a motor but I'm going to save money over the next few months. I found this rebuild kit from enginekits.com. I had one question should I dissemble the whole engine and take the block and crank shaft down to the mech. shop first before ordering any parts to find out if I can still use standard size.
Well, I bought the car for 350 bucks not know what was wrong with it, I towed the car to my house. I started the car but realizing a lot of white smoking coming out. I came to found that the car bad piston rings and bad valve steam seals. It will need a valve job done also. The car was seating for 7 years it probably needs new gaskets so that will be in my rebuild.
I'm going to take the block and crank shaft and the heads to the mech. shop and get them all cleaned and bore/shaved. I'm going to get new push rods, whole new valves rockers the whole deal. The carb also needs to be rebuild it also looks like it was drop or something, I'll just buy a new eldelbrock carb.
I just wanted to start this thread in case I came to a problem.
Here of tools that I need to buy-
Engine Hoist
Engine stand
Vice
A repair manual
Brass hammer
Valve pring compressor
Filler Gauge
A gringer for my new rings
Ring expander
Ring Compressor
Bearing Scarper - or a knife or something
Crank turning shocket
Oil Pump primer Rod
Harmonic Balancer install
Balancer Puller/Gear puller
I also need to buy a tray to organize tray too.
I will take picture of my whole rebuild so everyone can follow, I need to take photo anyways to keep track of everything. Wish me luck. Thank You for reading.
Well, I bought the car for 350 bucks not know what was wrong with it, I towed the car to my house. I started the car but realizing a lot of white smoking coming out. I came to found that the car bad piston rings and bad valve steam seals. It will need a valve job done also. The car was seating for 7 years it probably needs new gaskets so that will be in my rebuild.
I'm going to take the block and crank shaft and the heads to the mech. shop and get them all cleaned and bore/shaved. I'm going to get new push rods, whole new valves rockers the whole deal. The carb also needs to be rebuild it also looks like it was drop or something, I'll just buy a new eldelbrock carb.
I just wanted to start this thread in case I came to a problem.
Here of tools that I need to buy-
Engine Hoist
Engine stand
Vice
A repair manual
Brass hammer
Valve pring compressor
Filler Gauge
A gringer for my new rings
Ring expander
Ring Compressor
Bearing Scarper - or a knife or something
Crank turning shocket
Oil Pump primer Rod
Harmonic Balancer install
Balancer Puller/Gear puller
I also need to buy a tray to organize tray too.
I will take picture of my whole rebuild so everyone can follow, I need to take photo anyways to keep track of everything. Wish me luck. Thank You for reading.
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 614
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From: Memphis, TN
Car: 1992 z28 Purple Haze
Engine: 5.7L Tuned Port Injection
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 both spinning
Re: Engine Rebuild
I would definitely take it to a machine shop and have it checked before you buy anything.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,014
Likes: 0
From: Kempner,TX,
Car: 1996 Vette / 1992 GSX1100F Suzuki
Engine: 1996 Corvette Coupe 388 LT1 (+.060)
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.07
Re: Engine Rebuild
I decide to just do a complete rebuild on my 1982 Z-28 Camaro 4 Speed Manual 305. I've never rebuilt a motor but I'm going to save money over the next few months. I found this rebuild kit from enginekits.com. I had one question should I dissemble the whole engine and take the block and crank shaft down to the mech. shop first before ordering any parts to find out if I can still use standard size.
Well, I bought the car for 350 bucks not know what was wrong with it, I towed the car to my house. I started the car but realizing a lot of white smoking coming out. I came to found that the car bad piston rings and bad valve steam seals. It will need a valve job done also. The car was seating for 7 years it probably needs new gaskets so that will be in my rebuild.
I'm going to take the block and crank shaft and the heads to the mech. shop and get them all cleaned and bore/shaved. I'm going to get new push rods, whole new valves rockers the whole deal. The carb also needs to be rebuild it also looks like it was drop or something, I'll just buy a new eldelbrock carb.
I just wanted to start this thread in case I came to a problem.
Here of (ARE THE) tools that I need to buy-
Engine Hoist
Engine stand
Vice
A repair manual
Brass hammer
Valve pring compressor (SPRING COMPRESSOR IS NEEDED ONLY IF THE SHOP ISN'T INSTALLING THE SPRINGS
Filler Gauge (FEELER GAUGES)
A gringer for my new rings (RING GRINDER - ONLY IF YOU'RE BUYING .005OVER-SIZE RINGS)
Ring expander
Ring Compressor
Bearing Scarper - or a knife or something
Crank turning shocket SOCKET
Oil Pump primer Rod
Harmonic Balancer installER
Balancer Puller/Gear puller
I also need to buy a tray to organize tray (TOOLS) too.
I will take picture of my whole rebuild so everyone can follow, I need to take photo anyways to keep track of everything. Wish me luck. Thank You for reading.
Well, I bought the car for 350 bucks not know what was wrong with it, I towed the car to my house. I started the car but realizing a lot of white smoking coming out. I came to found that the car bad piston rings and bad valve steam seals. It will need a valve job done also. The car was seating for 7 years it probably needs new gaskets so that will be in my rebuild.
I'm going to take the block and crank shaft and the heads to the mech. shop and get them all cleaned and bore/shaved. I'm going to get new push rods, whole new valves rockers the whole deal. The carb also needs to be rebuild it also looks like it was drop or something, I'll just buy a new eldelbrock carb.
I just wanted to start this thread in case I came to a problem.
Here of (ARE THE) tools that I need to buy-
Engine Hoist
Engine stand
Vice
A repair manual
Brass hammer
Valve pring compressor (SPRING COMPRESSOR IS NEEDED ONLY IF THE SHOP ISN'T INSTALLING THE SPRINGS
Filler Gauge (FEELER GAUGES)
A gringer for my new rings (RING GRINDER - ONLY IF YOU'RE BUYING .005OVER-SIZE RINGS)
Ring expander
Ring Compressor
Bearing Scarper - or a knife or something
Crank turning shocket SOCKET
Oil Pump primer Rod
Harmonic Balancer installER
Balancer Puller/Gear puller
I also need to buy a tray to organize tray (TOOLS) too.
I will take picture of my whole rebuild so everyone can follow, I need to take photo anyways to keep track of everything. Wish me luck. Thank You for reading.
Pay EXTREME ATTENTION TO DETAIL. That's what's CRITICAL in building an engine.
NEVER ASSUME! CHECK EVERYTHING!
Lesson numbers one, two and three. Since you've never built one before, now's the perfect time to learn those.
Jake
Re: Engine Rebuild
I wouldn't worry about buying a valve spring compressor. The machine shop can worry about that when they disassemble the heads to freshen everything up, and I'm sure they'll recommend new springs since the originals are probably worn out. And yeah, it's best to wait until the machine shop has inspected everything before ordering the pistons, rod and main bearings. As a general rule of thumb, the block is usually bored .030" over, and the crank turned .010" on the rods and mains. So if you wanted to order the parts beforehand, I'd get .030" oversized pistons and .010" oversized bearings. If you happen to have a really low mileage motor, you MIGHT get away with being able to use standard sized pistons and bearings for the rebuild, but that's not very common.
Supreme Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,176
Likes: 4
From: Moneta, VA
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: WC T5
Axle/Gears: BW 9-bolt 3.27 posi
Re: Engine Rebuild
The danger in ordering parts before the machine shop checks the block, crank, and heads, especially in a car this age, is that they may already have been machined once, and might need to be done again.
Besides, you could have a cracked head or block, or your block may be only slightly worn, and thus you may be able to get away with going with .010" or .020" overbore. I would never order parts until I knew what I had.
BTW, ymenic, gaskets are a no-brainer when you take an engine apart. You don't re-use the old gaskets.
Besides, you could have a cracked head or block, or your block may be only slightly worn, and thus you may be able to get away with going with .010" or .020" overbore. I would never order parts until I knew what I had.
BTW, ymenic, gaskets are a no-brainer when you take an engine apart. You don't re-use the old gaskets.
Re: Engine Rebuild
Actually I totally agree with what you posted. The only reason I threw out the .030" bore size is that's the standard overbore most machine shops usually do, and the .030 pistons are usually quite a bit cheaper than .010 or .020. But you're right, if it's been rebuilt/machined before, it may require different sized replacement stuff. I really shouldn't have even posted the part where I said "if you did want to order parts before it's checked out", because you're absolutely correct, it's never wise to order that stuff until the machine shop has a chance to inspect everything! Supreme Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,176
Likes: 4
From: Moneta, VA
Car: 88 GTA
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: WC T5
Axle/Gears: BW 9-bolt 3.27 posi
Re: Engine Rebuild
Well, I was definitely not trying to be a 'flamer'... you and I understand this process, but I was afraid a newbie would spend money first and ask questions later.
Just as an example, the engine in my son's bird had a cracked block when we bought it. I nearly missed it, but the machine shop would have caught it if I hadn't. We bought a used engine from a junkyard, that we stripped down and rebuilt. As it happens, that one had previously been rebuilt by one of those engine rebuilding mills, and (probably unnecessarily) had been bored out .040 -- simply because it's easier to bore them all out to one size instead of measuring and changing tools. Lucky for us, the cylinders had virtually no wear, so we got away with replacing pistons and rings at .040, on the machine shop's recommendation. They told us that if we had gone to .060, we would have had problems with the engine running hot.
The other problem we had was that each engine had one cracked head. Had I known all of this would happen, I'd have done a V8 swap (the car is a V6).
Anyway, thanks for clarifying.
Just as an example, the engine in my son's bird had a cracked block when we bought it. I nearly missed it, but the machine shop would have caught it if I hadn't. We bought a used engine from a junkyard, that we stripped down and rebuilt. As it happens, that one had previously been rebuilt by one of those engine rebuilding mills, and (probably unnecessarily) had been bored out .040 -- simply because it's easier to bore them all out to one size instead of measuring and changing tools. Lucky for us, the cylinders had virtually no wear, so we got away with replacing pistons and rings at .040, on the machine shop's recommendation. They told us that if we had gone to .060, we would have had problems with the engine running hot.
The other problem we had was that each engine had one cracked head. Had I known all of this would happen, I'd have done a V8 swap (the car is a V6).
Anyway, thanks for clarifying.
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Re: Engine Rebuild
Oh yeah, no worries there. I didn't get the impression at all that you were "flaming". I replied back for the same reason you did, being that a newbie might jump the gun and order the parts beforehand. When a block is bored .060, they can run the risk of overheating, besides the fact that you can't bore them out anymore after that size, so I'd also only go .040 if that cleaned up the cylinders sufficiently. .060 is a last resort. Of course there's also sleeving, but that's so expensive it's only worth it if you're doing a numbers matching resto on a classic car.
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