Somehow I missed this when you posted last week. Good to see it's going back together.

Having a background in metallurgy and failure analysis, I would love to get my hand on those rod pieces.

About the Dodge - trying to get yourself banned???

 

what dodge? all i see is a box of tools to fix his engine. Glad to hear all is going back together.

 

EXACTLY! - darkhorse91 called it right on! Just showing off my tools and the old Haynes manual so everyone knows I'm assembling this engine right!

 

Engine is ready to drop in now. Should have it running next week!

 

About how much power are you making with that MP122? I've been curious of the potential of one of those versus the more typical (and cheap) weiand 142/144.

 

Did you decide to stay with the I-Beam rods or upgrade to a H-Beam? Maybe i missed it but are you running a larger stroke motor? That would be my guess why the cam lobe was worn off unless your not running high zinc/phosphorous oil/additive with a flat tappet cam. If your running a larger stroke you need a small base circle cam so it doesn't get hit by the rotating assembly.

 

I've had a chassis dyno done before. Just look up my previous threads and I have the results as well as the dyno sheet already posted.

To be honest, I wouldn't buy one now since I found out that Edelbrock cut all ties with Magnuson since this blower was brought on the market. The price has also raised substantially since then too since Edelbrock decided to build thier own blower exclusively. They void the warranty if you use smaller pulleys, and Edelbrock will only give you a 1 year warranty.

If you buy the same blower straight from Magnuson (MP122H), They don't only not void the warranty for increasing boost using smaller pulleys, they'll work with you to choose the proper one for your setup. AND - you get a 3 year warranty.

Every since I bought this blower, I've been forced to deal with Magnuson because the service Dept. at Edelbrock sucks so bad. Magnuson has at least been very helpful.

Sorry about the rant, but others may want to know also. So far as Weiand, I hear they are a good blower too, but they are the older style lobe design rotors whereas the MP122 is a semihelical design and more efficient. The MP122 also has a built in bypass that relieves the excess boost when it's not needed which allows the blower to freewheel easier at part throttle which saves gas. (They claim only 1/3 HP is used cruising at 70 MPH.)

But I do like the drive system better on the Weiands since they have the spring loaded idler that maintains belt tension. But I havn't had a problem with mine so far.

Other than that, I think the potentail is about the same between the two. Sorry about the long post, but you asked....

 

I stuck with the Eagle I beams since I didn't want to disassemble the entire rotating assy and have it all rebalanced. I hope I don't regret it, but I think that rod was a defect since I've heard alot of others use the SIR rods and have never had problems. And these are dirt track cars that get abused a lot more than mine.

The cam lobe was damaged by the half-rod that was flopping around on the crank. It smacked a lobe several times causing a flat spot. It's a Retro hydraulic roller cam cut on a small base circle already.

 

o ok gotcha...Hope everything works out for you. did you check the crank for straightness? I'm not doubting you i just have a few questions so I know what to expect if I break a rod....

 

if it were me personally if u dropped the car off and it was fine then something happened to it id make em pay to fix it i had a similar situation happed to me the body shop i dropped my camaro off at had a kid maybe 19 20 years old that drove the cars to the local car wash to get em detailed and stuff i stopped to get my car the guy that runs the shop was like its at the was getting waxed and detailed its a complimentary thing they do there well my cousin runs the car wash so me being a nice guy i went down there and told my cousin it was my car and she had it done free of charge... well when my car was done i went to follow the kid back to the body shop to pay and get my car and this little ***** was doin burnouts left and right goin through corners sideways showin off like it was his car i pulled out my phone caught it on video showed his boss long story short i got the labor for free all i ended up paying for was parts and the kid was out job searching the next day he got fired on the spot.. i kinda felt bad for him but you just dont disrespect other peoples property like that

 

Seems like a lot of damage from a start-up, however, my 350 in my camaro snapped a rocker stud while at idle. Never been on the road. So, who's to say.

 

HMMMMMMM, how well do you know the body shop? excessive RPM ? wait how about a grain structure issue,abnormal surely should have been checked

 

Well Geez - If I had proof like that it would be a slam dunk wouldn't it?? You bet your *ss I'd have them pay for any damage in that case. I had no proof like that, no eye witness - I only had their story to go by.

It's a moot point now anyway since I've fixed the engine now, and it should be running very soon. It probably cost me around 400 bucks in parts (new piston,rod,gaskets,balance etc.) and if I didn't do it myself, well over 1K in labor I'd guess. If I EVER have any hot rod I'm building painted again, I'll have it towed to the body shop BEFORE I drop the engine in it.

 

Well, as of today it's finally ALIVE!!!

Just got it running and waiting on it to cool down a bit so I can tinker with it a little, but it may not take much. It's idling pretty smooth at 750 RPM's and the best news - No leaks whatsoever (for now)

Still need to get the hood on along with a few minor things, and I'll need to limp it to an exhaust shop for it's first road trip since my Y-pipe needs to be modded to work with the new oil pan I have on it.

I have it jury rigged to get me there, but amazingly it's quiter than it used to be...I apparently have always had leaks in the past and didn't realize it. I was a bit suprised on how easy it was to get it started....my timing was set at 40 degrees advanced and it still ran without any backfire...I now have it set at 14 degrees BTDC, plus the 22 degrees mechanical should max me at 36 degrees in by 2500. A few pics of subject money pit...

 

Glad to hear that you are finally back to running and things are working as they should. It was a long time coming. Good luck and have fun!

 

The freshened up engine looks great in there! Hope it runs out fine for you and hangs together this time--regardless of what the reason for the failure was!! Anyway, it's all history now...sometimes stuff just happens!

 

Thanks guys...

Hank - You have a pretty rare car there! Not many L69's in 85. Especially in that color...

radical82 - Your screen name fits you...that's gonna be an awesome ride when you get it done!!