I am going to pin the stock heads, I don't plan on doing anything to the heads, porting etc, they will be replaced eventually. I am gonna run the ZZ4 cam and dont' want to risk pulling a stud.

I have done some reading on here. but have a few questions I couldn't find an answer to.

The kit that you can get from summit has 5/32 roll pins.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-806G/

I read here that 3/32 is plenty, do not go larger than 1/8. just wanted to get clarification. I will probably get the 3/32, less material to drill out.

I am not exactly sure of the preferred method. either 180 across the stud or go in at an angle. I found a drill alignment tool I am thinking of using. One for standard heads that lines you up 1808 from the stud and on for vortecs that goes in and about a 45* angle

Straight.
http://www.goodson.com/store/templat...l.php?IID=2947

Angled/vortec.
http://www.goodson.com/store/templat...l.php?IID=2948

I think using the alignment tool is a good idea. However, If I were to forgo the tool, how far down should I drill the hole? I have read the studs go in 1" to 1 1/4. Should I go 1/2" or 3/4" below the top of the rocker boss?

Thanks for any constructive input!

 

Never done this but have you considered having a machine shop pull the studs and tap the holes so you can run ARP screw in studs?

 

If I pull the heads, they aren't going back on. I was trying to do it "cost effectively" haha

 

Pull the studs and tap the holes while they heads are still on the car if you like.

 

 

Last fall I went to the Turkey Rod Run, in Daytona (swap meet actually), and saw a bunch of SBC parts. The few heads I saw that were pinned, were done straight and down as far as you could go and still drill it straight (if that makes any sense). I am thinking about pinning some studs as well on a rebuild.

Some people on here have done it with good results. They just have not chimed in yet.

CG

 

Pinned rocker studs are required when you don't want to tap the holes or have them machined down for normal screw in studs. The main reason any of these are required is because of high valve spring pressures which can pull the stud out of the head.

If your springs are pulling the studs then the issue needs to be addressed. If a factory spring pressure is pulling the studs, it's time for new heads. Pinning the studs with factory springs is just a poor mans fix to a problem.

 

Alky, he's doing this because he's going to be running a cam. I can only hope he's not running stock springs with it.

He also never said the studs were already pulling out just that he wanted to prevent them from doing so.

To the OP, I dont see you doing any wrong as long as you dont drill very near the top of the boss or very low below the stud. Just use your judgement, you seem to have this all well thought out so I'm not concerned about you doing any butchering out of ignorance.

 

To my knowlege the studs are not pulling out. It has stock cam/springs currently so they should not be. I have a set of LS2/LS6 "yellow" Beehive springs with the correct comp retainers that I intend to use.

thanks LS six, I have tried to educate myself as much as possible on completing this so I don't mess up and cost myself more in the end. I am a measure twice cut once kinda guy.

I have read on here and other places that pretty much anything more than the factory spring pressure you risk pulling a stud out. I don't have a problem, but I like a poor mans prevention before the problem starts!! haha