Ive been trying for hours to get the damn harmonic balancer off to get to my camshaft my 350.

I have the tool to pull it off but its not working. Its getting so hard to spin the middle bolt on the tool that I have to sit on the engine while my girlfriend spins it. it doesnt even look like it loosened at all.

is there something im doing wrong?

 

I think I see rtv sealant... wtf

 

what does the center of the harmonic balancer puller that you have look like? I bought one and it was flat on the end of the center bolt and did exactly what you're describing. The puller bolt was getting caught on the threads in the end of the crank. I had a piece from another puller that slid over the center bolt and was pointed, once I put that on it came off pretty easy.

 

Did you remove the harmonic balancer bolt and washer?

Jake

 

I use a three jaw puller which has a large, threaded center rod. The three jaww bolt to the balancer and the center rod presses against a smaller, longer bolt. As the center rod presses rearward the three jaws pull forward. Bingo!

I've always remove the harmonic balancer bolt and washer, then replace them with a smaller diameter and longer bolt to give the puller's big center threaded rod something to press against. I install a thick washer(s) on that bolt.

Just make sure the washer(s) have a smaller OD than the crank snout's ID. That's so the balancer can slide over them. Also make sure that each of the three bolts threaded into the balancer have full thread engagement; if not use longer bolts.

I then install the three jaw puller using the three balancer bolt holes in the balancer. Many times I have to wedge the flex-plate with a rod (e.g. 3/8"-1/2"extension, etc.) to prevent the engine from turning over. Sometimes a whack with a hammer or impact is needed to break free the balancer bolt or to start the balancer moving forward.

I then turn the large center threaded bolt (part of the puller) and it presses against the smaller bolt I installed. As I turn the larger bolt the balancer slowly pulls off.

I NEVER try pulling the balancer by using the threads in the crank snout. They'll often strip the threads or the bolt will break off inside the crank snout.

May seem complicated but it's really simple once you realize what's doing what. Different type pullers probably call for a different procedure.

Jake

 

Sorry for the late reply... I got the dang thing out. I'm almost positive I stripped the center thread. as soon as I took off the balancer, a tun of metal shavings fell out of the hole.

 

What did you use to pull it?

 

this

 

Thats the correct puller, so unless you didnt use the end cap on the large center rod, I dont see how it could strip the crank thread.

 

A hammer helps, as you start pulling on the balancer tap all around it, pull, tap, and soo on. Same to put back on.

I see its too late, but maybe for the next time.

 

Yes I didnt use the end cap... Only because from what it looked like, the end cap was too wide and was only pushing on the harmonic balancer and once it got tight enough I wasnt even able to turn it anymore. but without the end cap I was at least able to turn it.

It was a stupid mistake but as far as I know it can be helicoiled so Im not too worried about it.

Besides, once I can get a better budget I am going to rebuild it because 8.3:1 compression hurts my heart. Ill find a good rotating kit but for now Ill just helicoil it.

 

That's why those pullers are a POS and you want one of these:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATI-918999/?rtype=10

These are so much better, they actually thread into the crank so you can't mess up the threads. I've used that to install and remove many many dampers, it never ever fails.

 

that looks like a great tool but im not going to do many hamonic balancer jobs and thats wayyy to expensive to use once or twice

 

Proform also sells an identical one for a much lower price, quality is likely a little less but it's identical in shape and function. Maybe there's a summit house brand one too....check it out

 

DO NOT USE A HAMMER one wrong move and you could ruin the snout.
There are tools you can rent to put them on from autozone, never use the bolt only to press it back on.

 

A hammer has always been used as described, in combination with the appropriate puller, in situations were the damper is "frozen" to the cranckshaft to help loosen it. Never ever going to ruin the snout if done correctly.
No you do not hammer, you tap all around the damper.