Displacement:383 cu. in.
Carburetor:Holley 750 double pumper
Heads:Air Flow Research 190cc Street
Intake:Air Flow Research FloPower RPM
Camshaft:Comp Cams hydraulic roller, with 230/236° of duration @ 0.050 in. lift, and 0.510/0.520 in. lift
Headers:1 3/4 in.
Distributor:MSD
Timing:36°
Comp. Ratio:9.5:1
MAX HP:491 @ 5500
MAX Torque:501 @ 4000


Only thing i dont like is the 5500rpm peak. I wanted to spin atleast 6400. Heads i have are new AFR 195 with upgraded springs. headers are Dyno Dons. I had posted about AFR intakes but got no response. Yes iv'e researched alot but most cam combos i see is for the TPI's. Looked at atillas builds but wanted alittle more power. These numbers came off of http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos2.html. Dont bash am just at a stuck spot on my build.

Intake 3 choices:
Victor jr - lose bottem end tq but breathes better up top
rpm air gap - down low tq, not much up top compared to victor
AFR Flopower - No clue, looks sweet though!

Cam/rocker choices?
No clue, completely stumped!

Not daily driver, weekend and night cruiser

 

I'm not a professional builder so I won't be great help on the cam, it looks good to me though. It looks like you have an awesome base.

What kinda magic happens at 6400 rpm though? If the motor makes that kind of power earlier that is GREAT. That's the whole point of using a bigger displacement motor, to make torque earlier.

Just remember these "dyno queen" builds usually have huge longtube headers so to get like results you do the same. 1 3/4 shorties will be just a little shy of those longtube, though you can't be exactly sure of how off.

 

well i have the 1 5/8 shorties from dyno don so i will be lacking there.

6000-6400 max i think is safe enough, the heads will handle it so why not If i wanted a peak HP and TQ at 5500 i woulda built a TPI setup.

 

Just because theirs peaked at 5500 doesn't mean it won't pull hard to 6500. You need 1.75" primaries. If shorties, then SLP.
You mostly need modest beehive or conical valvesprings with AFR's Hydra-Rev kit. Add COMP's new short-travel lifters and the RPM AirGap, you'll have power peaking above 5800, and it'll pull 6500 through the traps, no problem.
Go with 1.50:1 or 1.52:1 full-roller rockers. I prefer COMP Pro-Magnum, but the Ultra Golds are okay also.

 

Giving myself a headache over here

1) So your saying the springs that came with the AFR heads are not good enough and i should upgrade to beehives?

2) Found the Magnum roller rockers so thats out of the way

3) Still stuck on what cam. I seen some Cam, Lifter, Gear drive kits, but again stuck on the cam part. And they were going for $1200 or so, and on top of that they were retro fit hydrolic rollers. I do want a gear drive rather then double roller chain

Atilla if your saying i need 500$ lifters to pull 6400 then ill be happy at 6k and not have much of a choice. If the wife see's i spent that much for just the lifters ill be divorced. I Kinda blew past my 3 grand budget on everything after the heads and bottem end lol she doesnt know that though so lets keep it here on the boards

 

your compression is a little low.. to complement that CAM
you will need a 3000 stall for that cam
say good night to your 700 I will give it 4 months

 

The springs you have are cylindrical, not conical or tapered. All cylindrical springs suffer from spring surge. That'll hurt your top end, and create a torque dip somewhere else in your torque curve.
Lifters: if you run common lifters about 0.020" from bottomed, that'll help, but even so, too much open pressure from the pushrods will still limit your top end.
Buying kits isn't right for what you're after, buy each thing separately. If you have a pre-'87 block, use Howards retrofit rollers, at $270/set. If you have an '87-up block, use new LS9 lifters at $110/set.
Please forget the gears. Good chains will stretch less than 1 degree after 50,000 miles. The Cloyes Street Roller is the cheapest of these, while the Manley is the best of all.
It'll still go to 6500, but it may sound or feel "off" by the time it gets there.

 

Overlap on cam is going to bleed off a lot of what compression you have.
Have you done a DCR calc?

No offense but sounds to me like you have been reading too many Hot rod magazines on what you " think " you need.Gear drives are only good for making noise
FWIW
My 12:1 383 ( 205cc heads ) ( DCR 8.6 ) spins to 7K easy but with the GMPP 847 cam ( ( 234 / 242) makes max power @ 6200 and then flat lines.
Only 410RWHP ( non lockup convertor )

 

1) I dont want to run more then 11:1 compression, maybe am wrong but i didnt think that was low.
2) Read my sig, clearly states i have a 3000 stall
Trans should be no problem to hold 500hp
3) If you have no helpfull insite like Atilla does then dont bother posting and wasting my time, thanks

No clue how, All i know is the kit i bought said 11:1 from eagle
No offense taking but its not what i think i want or need, but rather this is what i want, i like the noisy gear drive

1) Motor is a roller, 97 block from a tahoe. Is there any downfall with the gear drives? you and the other guy both seem to not like them.

2) LS9 lifters, beehive springs, and magnum roller rockers 1.52. What cam you think is the best?

3) If my goals of pulling 6400 is out of the question i suppose i can deal with that, but yet i dont want a 5500rpm 383 either, ill settle for 6100 lol

3k stall, 4:11 gears, decked block, 100 shot

 

I've seen a 9.4:1, AFR 195 headed 383 pull 6500 with a COMP 224/236-113, 503/520 HR cam, 1.52:1 Magnum rockers, RPM AirGap. But the HP peak was at 5800 rpm. That one made 490 HP and similar torque. So your cam is not too bad. Would I duggest you switch to this one? Not with 11:1, stick with the 230/236-110.
I've lost my link to my favorite DCR calculator, but it also figures in elevation.
Wanting the noisy gears are fine, but they make tuning challenging. Run the Cloyes Street Roller chain until the combo is well dialed in, then you can go to noisy gears.

 

well i forgot i upgaded the spring kit for my heads with AFR part #8605, 1.290 O.D. with higher spring pressures. I tried to research the specific specs on the springs but cant find the part number. Might have to wait untill i get the sheet when they get delivered.

Ill try to ask rick on the specs, unless you are familiar with it, would i still need to upgrade to beehives? Would be a waste of $100 if i would have to upgrade to beehives

 

I hope you realize that motor will never make 491HP in a real world build...

 

like i said in OP, try not to bash, which is the reason am on this board. Am trying to get a good top end combo together. The bottom is built, have one of the better heads out there. If you have some good insight to make 500hp ill be more then happy to listen. If you dont then again, your the second person to post an opinion that has not 1 usefull information for me to follow

 

Get out and stay out.

 

Beehives' main advantage over cylindrical coils is that beehives never have spring surge. This helps at the top end, and it greatly reduces other dips in the torque curve. In my mind, this alone does justify the extra expense.
Beehives also allow smaller retainers, which, even if steel, is still lighter. This also helps at higher rpm. I see no advantage to it when someone is using it with a traditional Holley carb, because Holleys do tend to go rich at the top end, just when you really need a slightly leaner mix. This is part of the reason that EFI can extend the useful RPM range with no other changes.

 

Why wouldnt a well built 11:1, AFR headed, roller cammed 383 make near 500 horse?

 

I have found this is one to be most accurate ;
download at bottom of page

http://members.uia.net/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html

 

DCR and SCR both need to be adjusted for elevation. At 4500 feet, An engine built at a true 10.000:1, will give cranking compression numbers that match the same engine, but 9.100:1, at sea level.

 

Makers CR spec are generic at best.Variables of your engine ; deck height / gasket thickness can change it

Read the info in the link above and download the DCR calc
Run the numbers for your engine.
You can see how changing things like head gasket thickness / cam specs can change the DCR

 

ya i downloaded the program and 1/2 of it is greek to me. quench distance? Getting down to the itty bitty with Compression i would say is out of my field.

If the block is decked, which it is, the pistons should be flat to the deck right? Gasket thickness and bore? is the bore of the gasket .030? Havent even made it to the point of head gasket thickness. Should i be using a .040 head gasket? I took these numbers from strokerengine.com with AFR 195cc and decked block

CID H/cc 5cc 18.6cc 0cc
383 65 10.9 9.5 11.6

Am running the +5cc flat top, 2 valve reliefs KB forged, 65cc head

My original goal is nomore then 11:1 compression, I will only be using 93 octane

Oh and my elevation is 50ft above see level, i live 5 minutes from englishtown racetrack

 

Those heads are old, so they probably needed a light clean-up decking, so figure 63 cc.
Block decking isn't always zero-decking, but we'll assume yours was.
Also assuming Fel-Pro 9.1cc head gaskets, your static is around 11.17:1.
I'm thinking you really should retard the cam to help your DCR / octane tolerance. You still may need octane booster on really hot days. Also plan on draining the glycol in the warmer months, and running straight water ith Redline Water Wetter or Royal Purple purple ice. Tjhat really makes a worthwhile difference in reducing knock, even inauduble knock.
50 feet elev, for all practical concerns, IS sea level.
Also plan to run 32 degrees total centrifugal advance, NO more than 6 degrees initial.
Do all that, you'll have a fairly safe starting point.

 

The heads on there build?


Well i could manage throwing a few octane boosters in the tank during my fillups.

So is it final yet? the gasket you said, 230/236-110 cam, 1.52:1 Magnum rockers, RPM AirGap, beehives, and the LS9 lifters i should net my 500ish hp goal?

Man i appreciate all the help, i know i have been posting alot lately about this build, i cant say enough how much i thank you guys and thank you for dealing with my pure stupidity

 

It's been a number of years now since AFR offered 190 cc intake ports or 64 cc chambers. The current closest offering is 195/65.
Other than that, you're close enough, go ahead and start buying / assembling.

 

Quench is important in regards to knock potential of engine
See
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/powe...ce-vs-dcr.html
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=124935

FWIW
Head gasket bore = size of hole in gasket.Most aftermarket 4.060