I just installed some world products s/r torquer heads on my 383. They are the 2.02 1.60 valves. The cam is a lunati voodoo with 219 intake and 227 exh. duration at .050 lift and .468 intake and .489 exh max lift.

Intake is a edelbrock performer EPS, topped by an edelbrock 650 carb.

For the exhaust I am running hooker shorty headers, no cats, and a single in, dual out flowmaster.

So I want to squeeze every last bit of power out of this I can. So far I've got the timing set at 20* initial and 36* total. I want to swap my drop-base filter to a flat one, tune my carb, and maybe put some lighter springs in my dizzy?

So heres my question, how should I go about tuning my carb? does my timing seem ok? what else could I do to get it running tip top?

THANKS

 

Why did you waste your money on such crappy heads? I seriously want to know.

 

well... I got them for $500 with manley backcut valves and a 3 angle valve job, seemed to be the best deal I could find, Would have gone vortec but my mild cam is still too much lift for them and by the time I paid someone to machine those I would probably have more money into them than I could afford.

I've been told the torquer heads are decent heads, the most I could expect for $500...

Any tips about tuning?

 

too much initial. You are using vacuum advance, right? If not, get it. Those heads flow worse than stock 882s. They can be made great with proper porting, however.
I can walk you through it, and you could expect another 50 horses.
But as is, your heads will be running out of air by around 5000 rpm.

 

yea I am running vacuum advance, hooked up to the carb... whichhh is non ported?? so doesn't that mean the vacuum advance only comes on at part throttle? so if I drop my initial timing down then my total will drop too, and you want that right around 34 correct? I actually do need to drop it because I heard slight pinging pulling a hill in 5th today.

Thats def. too bad about those heads though... I knew they were the bottom of aftermarket, but I didnt think they were that bad. do you have experience working with these heads?

Hopefully I will get it dyno'd soon and see what the results are and get a feel of my air/fuel ratio.

 

On most carbs, there is usually one manifold vac port, and several ported vac ports. Manifold vac is for the distributor. With the vacuum advance connected, you should have about 26 degrees at idle. You should be able to run 34 degrees total centrifugal on premium unleaded with no problem, but these days are hot. I use pour-in octane booster, but backing off to 32 degrees is a valid alternative.
Your initial timing without the vacuum should be about 14 degrees, and the 34 degrees (or 32) shouldn't happen before 3000 rpm.
I'd suggest starting with octane booster, then making sure your weights and springs weren't allowing full centrifugal advance before 3000, then reset the initial to 14, then adjust the vacuum to add another 12, then run that on premium without booster. If it knocks again, then back it off 2 degrees.

 

As to the heads themselves, if you decide to improve them, it's fairly easy. First pull the heads, then pull the valves. If the valves don't have undercut stems, order some. I can link you to a full set of 16 for $80.
Then get a local automotive machine shop to put a small 30-degree back cut on every one of the undercut valves.
Next, they need to do a 75-degree bowl hog in every port. From there, do your porting according to the sticky in the swap forum.
Do that, you'll find 50 horses.

 

Im running the 383 with vortec heads and a WAY bigger cam, got heads from junkyard for 100 dollars, bought some good springs and had my machine shop redo heads for 250.00, cheaper than 500 with alot more a@@.......

 

Ok, I will try to find the manifold vacuum port on the carb, but there is also another nipple that appears to be vacuum coming off the intake... could I use this for the distributor? And by hooking it up to manifold does this mean that no matter what rpm or load the vacuum advance will always be pulling the full advance?

Today I noticed my starter acting weird, which I'm sure is from my 20* initial.

So I kinda charted my timing and I am getting 16 of mechanical advance and 22 of vacuum advance. If I set my base at 18* then my total will be 34*... does this seem ideal?

Is the only reason not to run 20* base with a ported vac because its rough on starting the engine?

 

Wow, 50 hp would be nice... the valves that are in it and they do have the undercut as well as the back cut. As for the porting I would like to do that but it will have to wait until I get some more money, which is tough while I'm in college.

 

250.00 seems like its a real good price for that work... they did the valve job and cut down the seats for that cheap? And I would have had to buy an intake... i guess i thought the torquer heads were a little better than they are.

 

yeah, machine work not bad, but yes to run the vortec the intake would have to be changed, price not bad though like to say i paid 200 for mine new....