my 1990 IROC has a new distributor cap and rotor, new battery, and unsure if this means anything, but, the guy who had it before me advanced the timing chain so that it will "shift better than it starts". all this being said, i can get the car to start, but it sounds like only 4 plugs are shooting off in a cycle, and then it dies soon after. granted, it has been blazingly hot out the past 2 days (90°) and i am sure if i start it in cooler weather it works just fine. autoMD doesnt have the diagnosis option i'm looking for, maybe you guys can help. also, someone mentioned it could be my VATS system.

 

I had a similar issue with 86 and found out that my Mass Air Sensor sensor took a crap. Figured out that by removing it enabled the car to run long enough to get to the parts store. I put in the new sensor after letting the computer reset and viola, back to running like new again.

 

I don't know about that, i just unplugged my mass airflow sensor and it still did the same thing when i started it...

 

Sorry to hear that, it was just a thought since I had a similar problem once before. Hopefully one of the more knowledgeable people on here will help you get up and running.

 

Well i had the same problem with that on my 91 gta and it was the egr valve

 

It wont be VATS. VATS will prevent starting altogether. Double check your plug wires for proper firing order. The items mentioned so far, EGR and MAF are both valid. Youve already checked MAF. EGR not so easy as its buried under the plenum. You might try disconnecting the hose from the EGR solenoid to the the valve and blowing on it to see if the valve pops shut. Check fuel pressure. Check for vacuum leaks. Check TPS voltage. If nothing else reveals itself, you may want to pull the plenum to access the EGR valve to manipulate the diaphram.

 

well, now checking the hoses is going to be impossible now because the engine doesnt even fire up. this is truly discouraging the hell outta me...

 

Its okay. Just take a deep breath and remember, its only a machine. You can and will figure it out and conquer this problem. Lets just start with some basics. First, perform a bulb check. Turn the key on and see if the service engine soon light comes on. If so, move on. If not you will want to find out why the bulb doesnt light. Is the bulb out? Has it been removed? Once the SES light is working, check for codes. Any codes the ECM may have stored will help us find a problem. With the key off, use a paper clip to jump terminals A & B of the 12 pin DLC located below the steering wheel, under the dash. Turn the key on and watch the SES light flash codes. Long flashes are tens, short flashes are ones.

Check compression on any cylinder. It should read at least 160 with the throttle held wide open. Check the spark plug you removed. Is it wet or dry? Does it smell like fuel?

Check fuel pressure. If you dont have a gauge, a quick way to know if there is pressure is to simply depress the schrader valve and see if it sprays fuel. It should have pretty good pressure behind it for at least 2 minutes after turning the key on. If not, listen for the fuel pump when you turn the key on. It helps to pull the gas cap and place your ear close as a helper turns the key. Try cranking the engine. The pump should run for a moment after you stop cranking.

Check for spark. Pull the easiest plug wire to get to, probably #1 or 2. Place a phillips screwdriver in the boot so it contacts the terminal and hold it, by the handle, close to a good engine ground. Have a helper crank the engine and watch for spark. Check injector pulse. Using a 12v test light, check for power at both sides of an injector connector with it connected to the injector and the key on. Then, while a helper cranks the engine, check for the light to flash when touched to one side of the injector. If you are unable to access an injecor with the test light, you may need to purchase a noid light to complete the injector pulse test. If there is no spark but you have injector pulse, check the cap, rotor, ignition coil for trouble. If it all looks okay, suspect the ignition coil. If you have no spark or injector pulse suspect the pick up coil or ignition module.

If the engine has compression, fuel pressure, spark and injector pulse, it should start. If not then we need to look more closely at the ECM and sensors.