I wanted to know the casting number off my heads for my new TA. So I pulled the valve cover and found this. Did I win? Also what advantages do these rockers have over factory?

 

They're lightweight and have a consistent ratio. The next step is to see what else in the valvetrain has been changed. If you're lucky it's more than just the rockers.

 

Well I found out a little more info. I was not able to get everything. I was told the springs are comp cams and good for a 600 lift. The cam is a 498 total lift at least that is what he remembers and he is fairly sure the push rods are also comp cams.

 

I can't see the head casting number to see "how much" you really won.

To further add to what Apeiron said they are much stronger then stock stamped rockers as well. Stamped rockers flex/bend with stock valve train imagine what an aggressive lobe and springs would do with them.

The retainers look aftermarket, kinda hard to see clearly. Look in the spring and see if the valves have oil rings under the retainer. Most aftermarket valves I see don't have one.

Are the studs press in or screw in? Just running over ideas to see what could have been upgraded that you can tell from the top of the head.

 

I will have to take extra pictures of everything and look into what you are asking about the studs.

The heads are not awesome they are 333882. I keep reading different things about them. Most people say they are some of the best smog heads but many people just want to say go vortec and refuse to say anything else will ever make any HP. Looks like maybe a middle of the road head. Eventually I want to get some 202 heads but it will have to wait. For now the car seems to pull well and I was told it can make 13s

 

That's like saying it's better to be kicked in the groin by a size 9 boot than a size 13.

 

Good call but in the end I would still rather be hit with the size 9. This winter I am going to add uni supports, a new clutch and clean up the under carriage and floor pan including cutting out the drains and welding in sheet metal. Next winter I will look into new heads I have a lot to do before I start making it faster.

 

Some times you just got to use what you got.

I haven't been impressed with those heads with the limited experience I had. It was one of them things where it felt good when you first hit it, then you wait for it, wait for it.. and it doesn't happen. All low end and nothing else.

If you get them to run 13's though that's decent.

 

I believe it they are after all truck heads designed for towing. New heads are in the works but I need to clean up the underbody and fix the electrical weirdness first. Also I want to add some UNI frame connectors.

 

That's a good idea too bad we can't just fix it all at once right?

You've taken the opposite approach to what I'm doing. My car looks like hell and has a laundry list of things that could and/or should be fixed but I'm starting with the motor. It's not a daily driver otherwise I would probably go your route.

I think the biggest problem people had with those heads is that when you use them in performance applications where there's more stress, heat, ect, they tend to crack.