This is one of those random things that is driving me insane.

The easiest way to describe this is that it sometimes misses like hell when it starts and sometimes it doesn't. This happens with the first start of the day, or after it sits for many hours.

It has a new cap, rotor, wires, plugs, (.035) and I changed the coil with an older one that was still good and there was no change.

When it is missing, it will smooth out after a few minutes, but there is a terrible gas smell before it straightens out.

Other times it starts and runs as smooth as can be and is fine.

I have no idea what's going on since the regular ignition components have been changed. The module isn't very old because the original died a couple summers ago, but I don't think that would cause an intermittent miss since they generally just die.

The pickup coil was changed the same time as the module.

 

How many miles on it? Has the entire distributor been replaced? I have had a similar issue on an 86 z28 305 4bbl and on a 92 z28 350 TPI. Both times, it ended up being the distributor. Had 120k + on the 86 and 139k on the 92. Apparently it was the reluctor that went bad.

 

Why? Does the license plate read "PELOSI"? That would be a sign...

Are you certain the interior of the distributor cap is dry? Coil clean? Coil wire in good condition?

 

The reluctor actually went bad? I didn't know they went bad. The distributor has never been swapped and it has about 150,000 miles on it now. Everything else has been changed, including a recent partial overhaul engine swap type deal. Too long to explain that part right now.

It's a new distributor cap and I changed the coil, along with most other ignition components. I'm not sure if the ESC module could have anything to do with it. I can get a used one for $12. At least that's what the guy said, but he's an eBay seller, so I dunno.

 

ESC won't affect the ignition fire, only the advance. The dist will run fine with it disconnected, just with a limp home advance curve. Don't rush out and purchase a new one just yet.

The dist CAN go bad. Check for play in the shaft and visually inspect it for excessive rust and crumbly bits. May be time to replace it. Seems the small caps don't hold up as well as the old cap-in-coils, but that's just my experience...

Excessive fuel at start can mimic a mis-fire as the engine tries to clear the flood.

 

I'm with naf. Electrical usually gets worse as things heat up. Gas smell suggests too rich on start. ???

 

well, I am no expert, but apparently the magnetic field was very weak in the distributor. We had a new cap, rotor, coil, plugs, wires, and module and still had the problem. Replaced the distributor and reinstalled all the new stuff and it ran like a top. So... to my trouble shooting ability, the reluctor was the only thing I could think of. The shaft play wasn't really sloppy and the gear was in good shape too.

 

Yesterday and today it started and ran with no incident.

Tomorrow's first start may not go as well, it just depends on what mood it's in I guess. Intermittent flooding with a TBI?

I'll check for play in the shaft next fair day we get. Since it's so old, I may just replace it when I have the extra money.

 

Started and ran good yesterday. Will see what happens today.

 

SOMEBODY PLEASE HELP ME!!!

My car is going to be the death of me yet!

Yesterday it started and ran terrible for about 3 miles.

Today it's been raining and it started and ran fine, but then after about 3 miles, it didn't want to idle and was stalling when coming to a stop and I had to give it gas to keep it running. Even if I was driving down the road and had to let off on the pedal, it would think about stalling and then would stall after I was slowed down to a certain speed just before the stop.

This is crazy. I have no idea what to even do now, unless the IAC is malfunctioning sometimes?

Please note that it is not throwing any codes.

Then there is the crazy thing with the brakes. It's been doing things where the pedal goes down further and it stops without much effort on my part, but it's not like that most of the time. I think the damn thing is haunted.

 

Possibly transmission not downshifting as you slow down and stop. Try putting the trans in neutral if it happens when slowing down and coming to a stop.

 

[QUOTE=Vader;4839096]Why? Does the license plate read "PELOSI"? That would be a sign...

LMFAO Sorry, I couldn't help myself.

 

well, the brake issue could be a master cylinder going out or worn pads, as for the engine problem, I am at a loss currently.

 

It does it in neutral after the restart if I don't give it gas.

Where have I seen that before?

The pads + shoes are new and all 4 were bled. It's truly a mystery. Hope it's not the booster because those things are expensive! If I do the booster, the master cylinder will get changed at the same time, although I've been thinking about changing it anyway because it's also randomly pulling when I step on the brakes. Both front calipers were replaced not too long ago, well one was replaced at the time of the brake job, along with a hose.

I'm going to be more than at a loss pretty soon... My mind is going to be lost completely if I can't figure this out soon.

At least it's getting me from A to B right now.

 

With all that's happening, do you get any SES codes? Have you checked all your vacuum lines and gaskets, a vacuum leak can cause a lot of headaches.

 

No codes/light and all the hoses are in good shape with most of them being new.

Truly a mystery. I hope I get it figured out soon or my kids will have me committed.

 

Sounds like your garden variety intermittent. Intermittents are generally electrical in origin. A loose connection somewhere. The first things I would check would be CTS connector and wiring, MAP connector and wiring. Generally an open in either of these circuits would produce a fault code and turn on the light but there are expceptions to every rule. Perform a bulb check to verify that your SES light is working. Wiggle test all sensor wiring with the engine running and listen for any change in operation..

Loss of braking may be a symptom of the poor idle. Weak idle produces weak vacuum. Since the power brakes rely on vacuum, you see where that's going. Just the same, carefully check the the vacuum line to the booster and the connections.

 

I will do that the next decent day. Thanks!