i am not getting any crank or fuel to the injectors. i have no indicator lights come on in the on position. I replaced the lock cylinder and the key. tried to bypass the vats module my ecm has power at every wire going in and out.i have put in a start button in before. the engine will crank with that button. but the key has nothing. I had to pull the engine and put new rings, bearings and gaskets. hooked up all the grounds on the back of the heads. and battery is grounded between the ac clutch brackete and the block.had the ignitioin module tested at advance and it passed had put in a new sensor that hooks up to that module. im getting spark with my button but still no fuel. i was told that a bad oil pressure sensor could cause this. that is the one above the oil filter right. please if anyone could help me solve this problem it would be great. aboout to loose my job cus of this car.

 

when you turn the key, do you hear the fuel pump?

When you turn the key, do any of the lights on the dash illuminate?

If no, it sounds like when my ignition switch went on my 4th gen. nada, nothing

 

i replaced the key lastnight. fuel pump is working getting fuel to the back of the throttle body. nolights coming on. except ebrake light and ebrake is of and seatbelts. the check engine light doesnt come on in bulb test. ive tested all fuses and fusable links

 

OK - VATS does 2 things ...

1) sends a ground to the starter enable relay
2) sends a signal to the ECM to fire the injectors

#1 is easy - simply ground the relay wire
#2 is too involved - the signal is pulse wave or something, and there are 2, a 30Hz and a 50Hz

Without that signal, everything will work fine, except the injectors won't fire.

Now - you mentioned replacing the key cylinder and the key ...
* Did you replace key with a key that has the same identical resistance pellet in it?
* Did you replace cylinder with a VATS cylinder?

If you didn't do one or the other, that's your issue. You have to match resistance pellets in the key with what the VATS module wants, and you have to use a key cylinder for VATS that has the contacts inside to pick up the resistance on the pellet.

If this is the case, then you need to either a) get the old key and have a new key cut with that same resistance pellet as the old key, or b) replace the key cylinder with a VATS cylinder, and then key a key cut for that with the resistance from the old key, or c) do the resistor bypass under the dash with a $1 resistor like most everyone does.

IF you got all that done correctly, then it might just be a bad VATS module. It doesn't happen often, but they will go bad. In this case, you need a VATS bypass box, available on ebay or from Painless maybe others, about $20 - $60 depending. This bypass box will bypass the VATS module and send the correct (either 30Hz or 50Hz) signal to the ECM, so that it thinks all is well and will fire the injectors.

BTW - ANY car starter will turn with a remote starter switch (ie your pushbutton switch). If fact, any car starter will turn anytime 12v+ is given to the dtarter solenoid at the signal wire terminal. But on a FI car, you must have firing injectors for the car to run. Sounds like your ECM is not allowing your injectors to fire.

 

i took my old key in and the matched to the new key and i got the vats key cylinder. so what your saying is that i should buy a vats bypass box and ground the starter enable relay. if i do all this and it isnt the problem then wat.

 

last summer my car would not start. i would hit the key and nothing at all. not even a click. the proplem ended up being in the VATS. mine is and 89 RS 305 TBI. if yours is the same as mine you can do a simple test. this is how i found my problem.

their is 2 small yellow wires that run up to your key cylinder that read the chip in your key. the connector is under your dash by the stearing collom. very small wires! unplug that, put you key in the ignition, take an ohm meter and put it on the connector so your reading the ohms of the wires going to your key and back. see if you have an open thier.

i did in my car. ther wire broke up my the key cylinder from it twisting over the past 20 years.

just a suggestion for you to try. any questions about that just ask ill try to clear it up.

their is also a way to jump your starter enable relay. i just recently did that becasue i changed the motor and is screwed up my VATs so i jumped the relay and my car will crank again.

 

i just grounded starter enable relay and still nothing. check my vats module and that isnt it. put in a new lock cylinder and a new key that matches the vats. looked at my neutral saftey switch and that is fine so anything else i can try

 

"Looking" at NSS does no good - did you test it? With key turned to start, should get 12v+ out on the purple wire.

Start at ignition switch (under dash on top of column) - should be yellow wire going to starter relay - does it get 12v+ with key to start?

Relay - does it 'click' when key turned?

Then leaving relay a green wire going to NSS, does it get 12v+ with key turned?

Then leaving NSS, the purple wire - does it get 12v+ whrn key turned?

Then does purple wire at starter get 12v+ when key turned?

Then starter itself - will starter turn when you use another wire an put 12v+ to the terminal where purple wire connects? Use a nice stout wire (10 ga) here.

 

camaronewbie has said about anything i can think of. the green wire he is talking about coming from the starter enable relay to the nss is the one i cut off of the relay and spliced it with the yellow wire going to the relay. if i remember right their is 2 yellow wires. i dont think it matters what one you use since they are spliced together somewhere. according to my wire diagram on my 89.

if your relay does not click on maybe you can try that. i would think your grounding it would have done the same thing though if you grounded the right wire.

 

i was wondering is there anything in the engine compartment that i could of pulled or damaged when ptting the engine in that could of cause all this.

 

so i grounded the starter enable relay and i can start the car in park and neutral. but when i shift out of park the car shuts off and the only gears i have my gauges and evrything working are in park and neutral. when i am in drive or any other gear it is like i never had the switch grounded. i am not gettin anything on my dash.

 

i have no idea. i would thing after it is started it will not matter what gear you are in, you should still have power to your gauges and stuff.