does any one know how much it would cost for machine work on the block and piston installation??

 

Depends on where you live and the machine shops around you. Id suggest you contact the machine shops around you.

 

oh alrite thanks bro

 

To have a block cleaned, bored, and have cam bearings/freeze out plugs installed is about $700 around here.
Now don't forget a pre-machined 350 can be purchased from summit that is clearanced for a larger crank from Summit for that price.

 

you really need to shop around. Also, where you stop and take over yourself is entirely up to you. You have a block, if it's not from an engine that you PERSONALLY have been running then you need to first get it checked for cracks. That means you'll need to spring for cleaning and magnafluxing before you can even make a decision. That is a cost that you must bear because a machine shop must get paid.

Next, you don't even know if the block has been previously bored or if it is worth boring, again, that will be a small fee.

So, budget $200 just to determine if that junker you bought is even worth using.

Then you get into the bore/hone and removing all of the plugs and cleaning/replacing them. I don't even attempt cam bearings any more and once the block is dipped, you must replace the cam bearings.

I'm also not the best guy for removing pins/replacing them when the pistons are replaced, so I pay for that. You also need to have your rods checked/resized. Since you bored, next up is the crank needs to be machined.

So, it's really not as clean cut as to just bring in a block and get it bored. At least, not if you want to do it right.

Oh, we haven't even discussed the cylinder heads. Unless you bought NEW heads, and the operative word is new, not simply new to you, the you need new guides, new seats cut etc, in essence, a valve job. Porting and polishing adds even more to the charge so a simple valve job could go from $300 for both heads to $1,000 or more for exotic porting and upgraded components.

 

oh fudge that ima have to get me a whole new 350

 

I bought my block, bored, zero decked, and cam bearings installed for $528. Including the price of the core. However, as stated above, machine work is the tip of the iceberg. Do your research and find out what your build is gonna cost you, then do yourself a favor and double it, and be prepared to spend that much to get your engine goin.

Also, it's gonna take you a lot more time than your expecting.

I'm a just a pair of valve covers away from completing my first engine build. I'm also 2 months away from the 1 year anniversary of the start of the build, and I've got about $6000 sunk into it. Granted, your build will prolly take a totally different direction than mine, and you can definitely build an engine for less than I put into mine. Just be aware of how much it may end up costing, and how much time it will take you to build.

 

yea instead im just gona go with block and heads from summit

 

cus i was thinking to get a whole new crate but thats too expensive

 

You have to factor in the cost of tools that your gonna need to assemble the motor and check clearances with etc. If you dont have any tools and dont want to invest in them maybe a assembled motor such as a goodwrench 350 would be better suited for you. imo its not practical to use a used block for a performance build If you can buy a new one from gm for less than $700. I've had one of the new gm blocks that has tested bad so it would probably be a good idea to get any block you get tested.

 

but can i buy parts like block,heads, pistons, valve train,crank etc and send it to be built sumwhere? after tested been that is

 

Depends on the shop. Some places may offer assembly after machining for an additional cost. I know my shop bill was around $1400 or so (I did assembly myself).

If assembly is a big deal for you then you could also shop around for crate motors too.

 

thing is my 350 isnt running all pistons. so i wanted to replace them but its not so easy from what i here. i wana find a not so expensive alternitive. to have a normal working motor that i can throw on a couple driver mods on it and wont disintegrate lol

 

How do you know it's a bad piston?

 

my tech guy pretty much feels it theres no power i end up having the pedal floored to get too fourty mph sounds ruff too i can send you a sound clip if you dont mind giving me your email if you wana check it out

 

Sounds like you need to do some more troubleshooting/disassembly before you start buying parts. It would really suck to buy a rotating assembly just to find out your CAT is clogged up or something.

 

open hooker headers. can clogd cats realy do that much damage?

 

When my dual cats clogged up I could only manage 20 MPH at WOT. Like I said I'd try to track down the issue for sure before buying parts. It would really suck to buy pistons and etc just to find out that's not even the issue on the tear-down.

 

yea ima have to cus i already gotb a good goin setup in it

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uq-GR3WC8hM THERE I THREW IT UP ON YOUTUBE

 

I find it hard to believe that a PAID mechanic has looked at it and you have received no suggestions from him. The operative word is a PAID MECHANIC.

Check all your plugs and wires and be careful to look for breaks or melted wires

then, set your timing

even with huge compression loss the engien would be running better

now you may have broken/bent push rods or destroyed sonme lobes on the cam but try the simple stuff first


or, have you been spinning it to 6500 or 7k rpm's ?

 

rpm gauge is non operitive rite now lol

 

Taking it to a good paid mechanic is your best option or if its not knocking check to see if you have spark at every cylinder if you do buy a compression gauge and test each cylinder dry then test with a few squirts of motor oil. do you know what a vacuum leak is? check your timing

 

no wats that? and how do i get the oil in?

 

ugghh, please bring it to a mechanic. You started the thread about swapping an engine. Maybe you only need to spend $200 to a shop for something simple. If nothing else, it seems that you want to learn, but currently don't have the knowledge/experience yourself nor do your friends. You might be rolling for only $200 or at least be told what is really wrong and you can then make an informed decision

 

ok thanks i really apreciate the help

 

I do hope you take it to a pro. They will tell you either they can fix it for short dollars or give you some type of expensive list. if it's the latter, you then log on and post EXACTLY what you were told so be sure to write down what you are told.

Then, you will get feedback form many of us if we are on-line and will either say.......hey, that's easy to do yourself or to let the pro do it.

good luck

 

Listen to torque is good hes giving great advice

 

thank you for the kind words

now if someone could tell me how to get the turn signal cancelling cam placed back into the steering column so it works correctly, I can finally finish putting the steering wheel back on with a turn signal that shuts off itself.

 

Funny you should mention that I was just about to attempt the same thing. Do you have a thread started? I have the factory and haynes service manuals opened to that page right now if that would help you out.

 

not to thread jack but I have both manuals as well

When i tightened my column I yanked the wheel, removed the cam but it was broken etc etc.

I then moved on to yanking the engine and tranny, replacing all of the interior, set aside the column for a couple months and can't figure out positioning the cam. The signal works, you just have to manually shut it. It's silly things like this that make you crazy.

 

yea dont trip bro