Look like I need to replace my head gaskets. Never done this little job before so I've got a few questions:

1. This is the gasket set for my heads. Do I still need gasket sealer? These are teflon coated head gaskets just in case the link doesn't work.
http://www.trickflow.com/egnsearch.a...=KeywordSearch

2. Are there any other gaskets/parts/stuff that I should address during this process?

Thanks for any and all feedback.

Steve

 

Buy a new set of head bolts for each side. Make sure you torque the bolts to spec, in squence, in about 20 ft-lb. increments.

I would use gasket sealer on the china walls instead of the cork strips that come in the kit in the link you posted

 

China walls?

 

The front and rear walls of the lifter valley.

The cork gaskets will work but can leak. I don't even use silicone any more as that can also leak. The better choice is to use Right Stuff.

Since you need to drain all the coolant to pull the heads, you might as well change the water pump and gaskets at the same time. Looking at the kit contents, you're also going to need a distributor gasket.

 

I just changed the water pump a few weeks ago. I thought that was where the coolant was leaking. It was part of the problem but I was still losing coolant. Turns out the white smoke coming out of the tail pipe was the first clue that I had another problem. Thanks for the info, guys. I might be in over my head with this job. I would hate to think what a shop would charge to do this.

 

the first time i pulled a set of heads, i thought it was very overwhelming too...

no need for a shop, you can get it done

post any questions youve got

 

You might also want to check the heads and deck with a precision straight edge and feeler gauges to make sure the heads and block are within spec. If you have a badly warped head, it will just blow another head gasket. Also, you should check the heads carefully to be sure they arent cracked. Same with the deck.

As your pulling them, now might also be the time to upgrade to better ones, especially if the current heads have a lot of miles. No sense in putting them back on if the valve seats are recessed, or the guides are badly worn.

As for the gaskets, standard felpro ones from the autoparts store will work as well, and may even work better as they have more crush, and will conform to defects better than the trickflow ones. Definitely a plus on an old engine.

Lastly, make sure you dont use abrasive wheels to remove the old gasket material. Use a blade scraper instead.

 

Great information. Thanks!!

 

Just take your heads to somewhere like napa and have them resurfaced and inspected.

 

Have your heads checked and decked at a machine shop. It cost me $400 to have my heads rebuilt, new valves, guides, 5 angle valve job, seats and resurfacing a back in 2009 for my LT1 TA. For $850 you can have a new set of Patriot heads that flow close to 250cfm and 275cfm with mild porting. Now would be the best time to put aftermarket or better flowing heads on...

 

I've got TrickFlow twisted wedge G2 heads on it now. No complaints about them. They were installed by PO about 8 years ago.

 

I assumed that you had stock heads. Your heads should flow somewhere in the 250s range at 500 lift out of the box. Those are some good heads...