I'm wondering if you guys know how many miles I can run my lifters before they break on me(on average.) I'm being told I have about 2,000 miles before they break and could cause some seroius damage. Anybody have any idea how long I can run these? It's in a built 406 and I plan on driving this every day but not far.

 

There are only a few kinds of solid rollers that can withstand extensive street duty, and those aren't one of them.

The problem is, the roller axles get no oil at low RPMs. They depend on splash and thow-off from the crank for their lube which is non-existent for long periods of time in street use.

Certain others, the Isky Red Zones or some of the Crower ones for example, deliver oil internally to the axle, and will last longer. Isky now has a version that uses a bushing instead of needle rollers, which while maybe not as "heavy-duty" for racing, might be a better deal for the street.

Expect what you have now to be relatively high-maintenance.

As to "how long will they last", there's WAY too many variables to predict that with any certainty; but I'd guess you'll be lucky to see a MTBF even as high as 5000 miles. 2000 doesn't sound unreasonable.

 

You know what, I'm pretty sure these are Crower, I know the cam is Crower. The guy that sold me the block said I can run this on the streets. The high matinence thing true because the lash has already gave me hell. One of the pushrods bent because it was somehow too tight and had to order a new lifter and two pushrods. The replacement is Lunati so that's why I thought they were but I'm almost positive its Crower.

 

AFAIK Crower does not sell pop-up lifters; so if that's what you've got, they aren't Crower.

http://www.crower.com/media/pdf/2008b/142-143.pdf

"Can run this on the street" and "will last xxx thousand miles on the street" might well be 2 very different concepts.

As we've discussed before, it would be a REAL GOOD idea for you to find out EXACTLY what's in your motor, down to the part # of every piece and every machine work spec. Without that, long-term maintenance will be a hit-or-miss, pete-and-repete ordeal at best and may not be possible at all.

 

I'm just going to run it till it breaks I guess. I've also heard when they go out it will probably destroy my cam and even screw up my motor. There's no way I can get all the part #s at this point.

 

Could I get those lifters without swapping the cam? Or do I need the specs?

 

What do you mean, "get those lifters"? Do you mean, can you use those without swapping the cam? If so, yes.

You might also want to look here. http://www.iskycams.com/

Best thing to do might be to drive it until the next time something screws up; and swap at that time.

Why can't you find out what's in it?

 

You should be able to get different lifters without the cam specs as long as you know for sure there solid rollers and you get the right bore size and offsets.

I've been running the CompCams sollid rollers on the street now for 1500 miles or so. I spoke with the Tech Guy at CompCams prior to my purchase and was told I would just need to rev the motor to 2k-3k once every few minutes if I was going to sit for prolong periods at idle (long stop lights). Hope one doesn't fail on me. If it does that's what the rev kit is there for.

 

Yes, that's what I meant. I got the block from the guy for way less then what its worth. One of the down sides where he lost the specs and paperwork. It is a new bottom end and I have inspected it.

 

That sounds about right. Thanks.

 

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=352302

http://www.airflowresearch.com/index.php?cPath=75 Take the "increased HP" claims with a grain of salt, as that WILL NOT happen unless the valve springs are way too weak to begin with. Which is to say, in a PROPERLY designed and set up valve train, the HP difference will be quite small; but the longevity difference can be HUGE.

Comp, Lunati, and others also offer similar kits.

The thing that kills the lifters when dry of oil (low RPMs) is the hammering and beating that results from losss of contact between the lifter and the cam lobe. That's why a rev kit helps. Obviously it would negate the "pop-up" feature, but unless you're swapping cams every weekend for different tracks or something, it's probably not an issue. Also obviously, you need to make sure whatever lifters you actually have, are comaptible with the kit; can't have a "cutaway" top, for example.

 

Ok, thanks my friend.