***1988 Pontiac Firebird TransAm/GTA 5.7L 350 TPI ***

So my son came of age and I decided to help with building him a cheap car. (Words for the wife.)
We found this lovely lately, she has clean lines, smooth and sturdy.
But she has been abused and put down a lot and lost all self asteam.
On the way home she had to stop for a rest. Just limped real hard.

We got her home and cleaned her up. Just layer after layer found problem after problem. Found hoses cracked or fell off. Found belt worn. Took of Plenum and she was all black inside. Cleaned out full intake. Took off covers and found milk; so removed heads. Only did a cleaning, no rings and rods and pistons.

We put all new, fuel filter; injectors, oil, lube, plugs, wires, cap, rotor.
New belt, battery, EGR, hoses for air and cool.
With a really great scrubbing, but together with new gaskets all around.
Didn't put any makeup or paint, because I thought I wanted her to show her scars. I have the original repair manual and a new one as well.

So my issue; she wont get off the porch! She so happy I can't get her up and going. I can get it to start a tad, but then when I stop pushing (the ignition) she dies. Thinking there is no fuel supply, checked and pumping great. But did not test pressure (no free tester here.)

But first: I did some new wiring as found from this forum and from Alldatadiy (pretty awesome.)
The main problem I have is that I cannot tell where or any check valves on the vacuum.
I cannot get information for Ohms or voltage on the lines. I do check for 5 or 12 volts. Assuming if I get a direct 5 current it should be correct.

She is looking great and wants to go, but I think we need more pushing.

I believe the problem is now down to the Fuel Relay. The connector was all taped up, I removed the tape and the connector fell apart. Went to get a new, and found that the stores want to give me a straight inline 5 plug.
Currently has a small black (no markings) block 5.
With no information I am unsure of the correct placing.
I can get prime pump to work and relay sounds to activate when key is on only, but no start.

Beginnings of outside support would be a great start to get her moving and in better shape. Then we will be looking for great places for new outfits. Windshield is crackes, door and rear seals bad and such.

Another off question, paint first or interior?

 

HUH ?????????????????

 

Wow someone over did it a little too much......

 

You can start here with a wiring diagram...

http://www.austinthirdgen.org/index.php?pid=19

 

Simply: Took engine apart and rebuilt it. Cannot start now.
Get crank anytime no problem, but will not fire. I believe something is causing the Fuel pump not to run. When I turn key to ON the relay activates but then turns off right away. After attempting to crank I can hear the relay switch (assume off) but just cannot get good fire.

Replaced Cooling temp sensor last night, because the fans would stay on whenever key was in on position. Now the fans understand car is cool. Read that this is one thing that can stop fuel pump.
I believe other parts that may be burnt out or such and causing fuel to not run is Oil sensor and cold start switch may be bad. Changing those out today.

Also I could not figure out the correct timming and found the Dist Cap mount was spinning so we replaced the Dist.

Trying to keep this a clean stock, but the difficulty is actually knowing.
Trying to educate and work on the car ourselves; Father Son team.

Car cranks very well and smooth, but just not getting fire. Getting spark, getting compression; get good gas flow when on prime (not tested pressure.)
But I drove her home, so I assume without touching the fuel pump or lines much, there shouldn't be a quick jump to buying a tester and/or replacing pump.

 

Yes; have that wiring information and I can check for resistance, but not sure of correct voltage within any set. Advice from there?

 

I replaced the Oil Switch, which in some diagrams is listed as the Fuel Pump Switch.
Now I clearly notice the pump engage for 2 sec or less with key on, and notice that after failed start and key returns to on, the pump runs for a sec.

So it still will not kick off, cranks and sounds great, no leaks or fluids.
My first start is that I need to check battery., I think it is only at 12.5V (to much cranking)
I do have spark, fuel, compression.
Anything else I should be checking?

 

Battery charged, checked spark is good, fuel running, dis maf and it won't turn over, just cranks...
Any ideas?

 

same problem when i got mine check ohms on injectors, chances are there bad, got new set from www.southbayinjectors.com works great now

 

How did you put the distributor in, find TDC remove the spark plugs and stick your finger over the #1 spark plug hole. Turn the engine over in the direction of rotation ( you can use the starter) and when it blows your finger out of the hole, your very near TDC for #1. Keep an eye on the timing mark. Remember, when you drop the distributor in, you have to turn it back a couple of distributor teeth to align with the #1 mark on the distributor ( only has to be close because you will be turning the distributor and setting the timing with a timing light). Also the oil pump drive is engaged by the bottom slot of the distributor. If it doesn't drop in easily, don't force it. Turn the engine over by hand until the oil pump engages the distributor drive shaft. If you put the distributor in wrong you will have spark but not at the right time there for your car wont start