I've a lot of time researching this and was hoping to get some imput for somebody else with experience since im a noob whose never dug into the internals of any engine. So thanks in advance

My uncle gave me a L05 from a 95 Cheyanne that I want to try and rebuild by myself for the sake of personally learning and economic iissues. It is an 880 block which means it has all of the provisions for a roller cam, and from what I understand I just need to get the parts to make it work...

1. Roller Cam (id really like a zz4)
2. Timing set for a roller 350 (from a Caprice or maybe a Vortec L31)
3. Pushrods for the same as above
4. Roller lifters (1.6)
5. 8 lifter linkbars
6. Spyder assembly
7. Distributer gear for roller tbi engine
8. Cam retaining plate

Did I leave anything out? What can I pull from a junk yard, and what needs to be bought new? If this is it do you think it'd be cheaper just to find a L31 or a roller L05?

For me, money is more than tight so im forced to go cheap but im determined to try and build a mild 355 out of this thing, maybe shoot for some 113 aluminum heads, a new holley intake manifold, some long tubes, and a stall converter around 2000 to 2300. Of course id be getting the equipment to tune by myself, which is another thing im noobish about. Later on if the ultimate tbi mods aren't enough a holley 650 tbi unit. What im aim for isn't a monster, but something fun for a DD.

 

It looks like you have all that is needed for the roller cam to work on the list you have.

 

So if that is all of it would I be able to just go out and get all of this used at a junk yard, except a few thigs listed, and just install it and be good to go?

 

I did a big post earlier that must have failed to go.

Depending on your block some appear to be drilled and tapped for lifter valley spyder bolts and some others aren't. The trucks were not equipped with a roller according to other posts, but some of the blocks already setup to accept them. There's no easy way to tell without pulling it apart and looking apparently. If it's not setup for a roller yet, then it can be drilled/tapped and is fairly common thing to do.

Thing you might want to consider is the mileage on the motor. Camshafts have main journals that sit on bearings. If you're having the block out already working on it at a machine shop you could have them put new bearings in for cheap. Usually the tool to install them yourself is just as much as the shop will charge so if you're not planning on doing it a lot it's easier IMO to have them install the bearings for you. Course if you're planning on having them bore the block they usually will tank/magnaflux it first to check for cracks. Which means you'll be getting everything balanced at the shop more than likely and getting all new bearings and stuff to go with it.

If you use the factory heads you'll want to install new valve stem seals (these seal the oil from leaking onto the valves, which causes smoke on startup). The OEM ones will leak over time and it's fairly easy to install new ones usually.

You might also want to look into the springs and what they are rated for. All springs will weaken overtime, even the high dollar aftermarket ones. Stock springs aren't made to run high lifts usually. I don't know the specs on a ZZ4 cam, but most factory cams are around the .300 or so range, which compared to some monster cams that snap valves .600 you can see where the extra travel and pressure comes in.

 

Well from what I understand there is an easy way to tell if a block is drilled and tapped - later l05s used the same block as the vortecs, with the block casting ending in 880. I know all 1995 trucks received the 880 block, but I don't know when the changed occured. I have an 880 so im good to go.

As for mileage it supposedly has some 250,00?0+, so it will definitely need some work done if it doesn't have a crack in the block. I did not know that about the bearings, when it comes time ill definitely have to check that out.

As for the heads hopefully I can find a reasonably priced set of 113s, so still OEM just not crappy TBI swirlports. As for springs if I do end up with 113s I plan on using LT4 springs, as they're what comes on the zz4 crate engine itself, so perfect fitting.

 

Does anybody know if the roller assembly from an LT1 would work on sbc? Im possitive it would but hey, zero experience

 

Yes of course. The LT1 is an SBC. All the same as far as the valve train.

 

That's what I thought