By your numbering system, you need to jumper 5 and 6 then. (on my GTA, its the rightmost two pins on the top row. Should be the same for yours

 

k will do tommorow, as for the injectors, im going to take them monday to a shop to get cleaned inside the engine, i would clean myself i had none of the things needed :\

 

does anyone have any suggestion on what to check?? from what i have come up with

 

Are you still having this problem? Im a little confused, i read the pages but i cant figure out where you are with it at the moment.

Have you verified TDC on the compression stroke, setup the timing, and set up the firing order correctly?

Just because you have fuel at the rail doesnt mean you have ENOUGH fuel pressure. Are you able to/ have you checked the fuel pressure since replacing the pump yet? If so, what was it?

Im confused about the injector situation. Have you ohmed them out? What was the results? They need to be no lower than 12 (ideally 17+) and within .5 of each other (check engine warm AND engine cold.)

Have you done a compression test on all 8 cyl yet? If not, loan the tool from pep boys, AZ,ect. and check it. Its like $15 and youll get your money back when your done with it.

How are the plugs? Have you changed them since getting the car? I think you said you changed your wires, right? What about cap and rotor?

What are you doing at this point?

 

compression is ok when i was putting fuel rail together fuel fell into intake mani and when i assembeld it i cranked car and it started fora bout 4 seconds now that the firing order is right, pressure does reach the lines but the last guy who tried checking pressure, his meter broke idk how. so monday i will find out.

plugs are new as well.

at the moment i am going to take the car by pulling it to a shop to get it air cleaned and check pressure and clean injectors.

tommorow i am going to try to figure out the codes and see what comes up so i can get a better light of vision for the car.

 

Ok, gotcha. So fuel fell thru the throttle body and it ran for a few seconds?

 

yes, what i was doin was this: i was testing the connections with the noid light and forgot that fuel was going to shoot out, so i turned key to on and it shot out and it shot about 1/4 of a cup. i covered it and then i cranked engine and right away the car turned on and the light flashed.

 

ok. Well if you are able to put gas thru the TB and have it run that shows that it CAN run, there is just a problem in the fuel delivery process. It sounds like youve got the injectors off and ready to be tested/cleaned, after this try putting them back on and see what it does. Assuming the firing order and timing are correct, with the injectors cleaned i bet youll be good to go.

To me, from what ive read and if i understand everything correctly, it sounds like your main problem is your injectors. They are clogged/failed and wont let gas thru. Youv got gas to the fuel rail, but no gas past the injectors. Obviously it doesnt just disappear, its gotta be going somewhere-or stopped up somewhere. After youve got the injectors back and installed, let us know what happens!

 

yea man no problem, god this site is like my bible for my senior project. so far ive taken pictures from what ive done and steps and diagrams and all the information ive compiled and have neatly organized it into a binder, its like a handbook for the car. i plan on uploading everything ive compiled into one huge thread and let everyone feed off of it. sound good??

 

Yea, sure. When you say senior project do you mean its something school related? Sorry if thats being nosey lol im just curious. Out here (NC) we have a senior project that the students have to do and pass in order to graaduate, but ours would never be able to be about working on cars haha

 

yea that is it precisely. ok so right now i was fiddlying with the car and this is what happened:

i tried connecting the 5 and 6 port as said something weird happened, let me upload a video and let you guys see for yourselfs, it was weird.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vh_pFcwtmUk

these are my results, can anyone identify what i am doing wrong or is this right or what? i didnt try to turn the car on in this mode, because i dont want to mess my engine up.

 

ok well now i got some codes, if anyone could de-code for me because im not very good at it. here is the video of my results.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YjM4i...IIzi100l2389Zi

PLEASE SOMEONE HELP?

 

It's just constantly flashing code 12. Code 12 is what it says before it says what codes it is actually throwing off. It would appear from your video that it isn't currently throwing any codes.

 

ok so does that mean everything is ok?

car wants to start better now that i changed the firing order, just seems like no fuel is reaching so im going to take to get injectors cleaned out good.

 

Check the fuel pressure before doing all that. You can rent fuel pressure gauges at some auto parts stores, and when you're finished testing you get your money back. I believe that the pressure needs to be atleast 65psi, but I am not 100% sure on that.

 

ok, i went to my autozone and they wanted to charge me 150$ to rent it.. quiet alot

 

You should be able to buy a cheap fuel pressure gauge for much less than that.

 

yea, well im going to see what my friend can get me and measure it man.

 

3.1v6 fuel pressure should be 40.5psi to 47psi with the stock regulator.

 

ok, going to check that this afternoon after school.

 

**UPDATE**

So ive taken the fuel block out again and going to install new injectors after i buy o-rings. Still ahvent checked the PSI of my fuel pump due to noone having one.. iritating. i am now going to cllean the rail housing to keep it new. hopefully this will do. any tips?

 

MY CAMARO IS ALIIVEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thank you FastEd for the Injectors And thank you All for your wonderfull HELP!!!!!! I am in Debt to all of you! THHANK YOU!!!!!

 

Alright so ive tooken my car for some test runs and all seems good except this. i dont know if this is normal or something bad. when i turn the car on it seems to be at a 10 rpms. like if im pushing the pedal. and when i let go of the clutch slowly i dont even have to push the acceleration pedal. what might this be anyone know?? or is this normal??

 

If the car idles up to about 1000 Rpms right after start up then that is normal. However if the car continues to idle that high after a few minutes of idle or a few minutes of imediate driving then I would check how tight the throttle body cable is. If the cable is too tight it will cause the car to always have the throttle applied and therefore cause high idle. If it is too slack it will cause jerky starts.

Start it and let it sit and let us know what happens with the idle.

 

ok. would a video be better so you can see with your own eyes instead of a noobs?

 

Ha it's really all up to you.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bgFVO...IIzi100l2389Zi

Here is what happens.

 

If it idles like that when you are driving and after you let it sit for a while that is definitely odd. I know that the 5.7's idle at about 550 and I think the 5.0's stay at around 600 or so. So if it continuously idles like that you should see what the throttle body looks like and see if there is any sort of build up on it.

 

ok i will be checking that when its warmer. the weather is starting to get bad but thatnk you i will be chekcing soon.

 

What you're dealing with is called a high idle. That should get you started on some searches.

Common causes are stuck/dirty throttle body, stuck or improperly adjusted cable, dirty IAC motor, or your IAC isnt set right, or the minimum air screw isnt adjusted right.

 

I assume it runs?! A
Alwsome man!!! Im glad to hear that, the problem was the injector

 

hey bro dont worrie about that idling at 1k Rpms. Those tachs on thirdgen camaros are usually off a few hundred to a few thousand RPM's.

Hows the throttle responce?? If it drives fine and your just worried about the tach then DONT WORRIE ABOUT IT. Our 3.1L idle at about 850 rpms when its cold, then as low as 650RPMs when its hot, then when the engines really hot (220 degrees plus) it idles back up to 850 RPMs When my car shifts(its a automatic) the tach reads 6500 Rpms, and really it shifts at 5250 RPMS, so thats how far off those tachs can be...


Watch this video....About 10 seconds in the vid, you can see my tach at idle. Its like 1100Rpms, but on the laptop it reads about 750Rpms. So dont mine the tachometer on the car, its probly off and off alot more at higher RPMs

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zyS7L...eature=related

If you have any problems, take it for a test drive, video tape it, and make sure us viewers can hear the engine in the video. Ill be glad to help out as much as I can!!

Im really happy though that my injectors helped you fix the car, check out my videos on youtube if ya havent already, theres a few good ones on there. Ill add more when i can finish up this turbo build.

 

Yea man the injectors fixed it up Fast didnt even hesitate. ok so i was test driving and the service light came on wich suxs :/ going to check it and see what the car is reading. what is the shift light for. i was driving and it seems the shift light was off by alot. i was barely in third gear and wanted me to go to 4th really quick. also it gives off a weird smell of oil but im thinking its just that i didnt tighten the oil filter enough. any thing i should do? the interior is now clean as possible.

 

I would just test the ECU like you did before when the service light comes on, see what codes it is throwing out. Vid tape it if you have problems sifting out what code the car is telling you. Could just be emmisions stuff. Mine throws a code every here and there, but runs fine. (I actually took out the service engine light) Untill i retuned the ECU in the car.

That shift light, i think, comes on for the best fuel milage... so i would guess it would come on at 2000 Rpms or so. But im not positive since ive never drivin a thirdgen camaro that was stick.

Check the oil as much as possible...if you think you have a leak somewhere. Look all over for the leak. Place a old sheet or something under the car(something you can see the oil drops on), look for leaks after you drive it for a bit to get the engine hot. See how much its leaking. Then you can jack the car up and start to look for the problem.(use jack stands... be careful!)

You said you think its your oil filter? That should not be leaking, but is possible. If you suspect the leak arround the oil filter, it may also be the Oil Pressure Sensor, as mine went bad a year ago. Its like a 10 dollar part. It was the cause of my oil leak that drove me crazy!!

How much oil did you put in the car, after the oil change?? 4qts?? Dont over fill it or you may have oil leaks at that oil pressure sensor or other areas.

In my opinion, you need to find that leak though, exspecially if it leaks alot. Id look at that issue before any thing else, if it leaks bad...

 

Alright so here is a video i just recorded on the codes it was throwing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tYmPd...IIzi100l2389Zi

if anyone could decode/

 

Ok in the video, it was throwing a code 13. That is a bad oxygen(o2) sensor.

Do you know where that sensor is at?? If you get down on the ground on the passagner side of the car(by the door) and look at the exhaust twards the engine, you will see a sensor there, that has a single wire that runs up to the engine bay.
You cant miss the sensor as its the only sensor on the exhasut pipe. The sensor is screwed into the pipe itself.

The wire may either be burnt, disconnected, or the sensor is just bad.

Youll want to fix that problem, as now the cars computer will see the engine as running lean, and will send more fuel to compinsate for it. Resulting in bad gas milage and such.

 

For future reference here is a link to info on testing the ECU the way you have been and how to read the code and what it means.

https://www.thirdgen.org/service-eng...ht-error-codes

 

ok, i would do the ecm testing but the problem is i already returned the noid light, i borrowed it from autozone. ok i will go check right now/

 

I ment testing the ecu like you have been... with a paper clip or whatever you were using to cross the pins under the dash to get the service engine light to flash. That noid light was for the injector testing you did before.

The ecu is what is saying(service engine soon)

Was the check engine light coming and going off as you drove the car??? Also, was it raining???

Also the car has to be warmed up for that sensor to send a signal to the ECM/ECU. I take it the light never came on till the car was driving for a few miles..normal engine temp..... That code 13 is just saying that the o2 sensor is and open circut(not sending info to the ECU)

 

ok so there is a wire hanging from the exaust point. im letting the car cool down atm. i drove about a mile until the car light turned on. the service light is not on no more but knowing the wire is hanging im going to check it. if its ripped from the insert what can i do??

 

You need to see if the wire from that sensor is connected. Really man you need to jack that car up to see if its connected and if the wire is in ok shape(not burned)

If you jack up the car and get under there and look up youll see if its connected. Its sorta hard to explain, untill you actually see it yourself.

If you want ill go take a pic really quick since my car is on jack stands. Then you can understand the wiring and where it is connected before you try to find it???

Its not a big deal if that wire is bad, you just put a new one in there. I dont wana say its the actual sensor that is bad, since the wireing could be causeing the problem.

 

sounds good man. my car is on some ramps right now so its easier.

 

Ok here is a pic or two. Look for this connection, see that its connected good.

Look at the wire well and see if it looks cracked or burnt.
Look at the sensor itself.. see if it feels loose(the metal on the outside of it)

One picture is the view from the bottom of the car, my exhast is a little dif, so dont mind it

Another picture is the connection itself

The last picture is the connection taken from the top side of the car. My o2 sensor is not bolted on the exhaust right now so dont get confused on why my wire comes up so high in the car... i was holding the sensor in my hand..

 

ahh i see. yesterday i was going to work on it but unfotunately, i fell asleep waiting for it to cool down lol. today after my appointment i will work on this.

 

hopefully you see the problem... let me know

 

Ok well the wire Is connected to the sensor but is ripped from where it is supposed to go into. what do i do?

 

Could ya get a picture bro?? Im not sure what ya mean by its connected but ripped...

 

alright today iwill

 

Where the Sensor connects to engine, nothing was connected



the Sensor Connected

And this is where it was ripped, just the wire that has to connect to engine