Hi, my starter is starting to be inconsistent. Motor seems good, but the gears don't always engage the flywheel, a solenoid problem I guess. In researching starter information, I've been trying to read up on all the LT1 starter swap info on here, but haven't found the answer to a question I have. At the JY, the only LT1 starter I can find is a real clean reman one from a 96 Caprice with the LT1 motor and an auto transmission. My car is a 92 5.0 E engine with the T5 transmission. Will this starter fit, or do I need one from a manual trans LT1 car? Appreciate any and all help, thank you
Henry

 

Yup, AFAIK bolts right up.

 

Cool. I had read in some threads that manual starters would work in auto cars but that auto starters wouldn't work in manuals, but I didn't know if that meant just stock third gen ones only or the LT1 starters as well. Hope you're right, thanks, Henry

 

You should be good.

Rockauto doesn't list a "manual" and a "automatic" version of the started for LT1 Camaro's so Id say its safe to assume that LT1 starters are interchangeable between either.

On a side note, LT1 starters are smaller then SBC starters in general.

 

When my junkyard LT1 starter finally broke on my 350/T56 car, I put my old, heavy, crappy, factory 305/700r4 starter from the 80s back on it. Worked fine.

Then I ordered a new made in China generic Lt1 starter. It also works fine.

So yeah, they all bolt up no problem. As long as you have a 153 tooth flexplate/flywheel, you're good.

 

Good to hear, and I'm guessing that I need to use the bolts from the LT1 which are a bit longer than the stock ones. Yes?

 

I just use what I have? I've got several sets of starter bolts. I dont pick and choose at all. Short one on short side, long one on long side.


Now maybe I'm committing some sort of awful egregious error Im unaware of, so keep that in mind, but it has worked for me so far.

 

Oh Okay, I thought I had read somewhere the importance of some of the knurled part of the bolt extending into the block for greater stability or something like that. Shouldn't be all that hard to make something work I suppose. Thanks again, Henry

 

Starter bolts are knurled. you need to use starter bolts, but beyond that I dont know if there's a difference between the LT1 starter bolts and the Gen I starter bolts. I never knew there was at least.

 

Well, I now have two extra sets of bolts besides the ones already in the car, so I think I have a good chance of fitting it tight enough, thanks

 

It's obvious that the smaller size makes this starter much easier to work with, but does it really turn the engine over as well if not better than the much larger one? How does it do that anyway?

 

It's a gear reduction starter. I dont really understand more than that. I presume the starter motor is geared better to stay in its ideal operating range or something.

But make no mistake, these types of starters are MUCH faster and much more powerful than old ones. I hated when my junkyard LT1 starter finally broke, and had to go back to the old school delco pig starter. It felt like the engine was barely turning over in comparison. And with my carb that requires a little feathering, it makes it much easier to start the car.

 

Thought I would revive an old thread since I had to go through them recently to select a new starter for my 383. I was using my old OEM that came with my 1991 LB9 engine. Here's what I found that would fit the small block:

ACDELCO# / Power Rating / Model-Year
3361580A / 1.4kw / F-Body 93-94-Caprice 94-95-Impala 94-95
323480 / 1.7kw / F-Body 93-94-Caprice 94-95-Impala 94-95
3361913A / 1.7kw / F-Body 95-97-Caprice 96-Impala 96
323488 / 1.7kw / F-Body 95-97-Caprice 96-Impala 96
3371023 /1.7kw / F-Body 95-97-Caprice 96-Impala 96
3361054 / 1.4kw / Corvette 88-91
3361148 / 1.4kw / Corvette 92-96
10455709 / U/K / Corvette 88-96

The Corvette models are different than the F-Body/Caprice&Impala. However, they are ALL offset gear reduction. It will fit automatic or manual 153 teeth.

I got the #3371023 because it was the cheapest and most recent model. Also, it was a NEW unit, not remanufactured, and came with new bolts. It installed under 30 minutes (with Hoist!) and cranked like a charm. Much smaller than OEM. It does have a more modern sound, kinda like a motorcycle. I absolutely love it. All my problems of long cranking while cold are gone. The old OEM starter was taking 6-7 seconds to get the engine to over 300 rpm when cold. That was delaying the ECM from activating the injectors. The old starter came out without having to undo the exhaust Y pipe... Was probably lucky! BTW my 383 has 9.7:1 compression.

 

I picked one up at the JY out of a mid nineties Buick Roadmaster as well. It was in great shape so now I have a couple of spares for the occasion. Oh, and in answer to my question, it worked great