so i went to switch out my thermostat a min ago and ended up busting the bolt that is attached to the manifold (left Side) uses a nut to tighten down, (right side use a bolt to the manifold) is there any way i can remove this bolt and replace it,

 

(1) spray with
http://www.freealloil.com/, OR A GOOD PENETRATING OIL

(2) heat briefly with propane torch



(3) spray with OR A GOOD PENETRATING OIL


http://www.freealloil.com/

(4) wait 5 minutes MINIMUM and RE-SPRAY with
http://www.freealloil.com/ OR A GOOD PENETRATING OIL

(5)spray for a minimum of 5-6 seconds with
http://www.loctitefreezeandrelease.com/




IT SHOULD NOW SPIN OUT WITH VISE GRIPS


http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/...g+rusted#p8498

yes its going to be a whole lot cheaper to buy and use the correct spray and tools than it will be to bugger up, and strip the bolt hole and need to re-weld and re-drill and tap the intake, after you screw it up, buy the two sprays, both the freeze and lubricant sprays use the torch to heat the bolt, use the penetrate oil to cool and lube the bolt, use the freeze to loosen it easily

 

its not a bolt, a nut holds that half down and it busted the threads that i think is attached to the manifold

 

ITS A THREADED STUD follow the instructions it will come out

 

can i bypass using the propane?

 

and how would i go about replacing does there have to be welding done

 

read what he posted !!! The answer for extracting a broken bolt applies to the stud you now have ! pb plaster and heat works good too. a torch will cost you no more than 25 bucks

 

yes you can but your taking a significant chance of the stud not being nearly as easy to remove, its your choice naturally but in the long run doing things correctly will save you a good deal of time and money.
the lube, heat,lube,freeze in rapid succession, then the gentle but consistent twist torque of the easy out in the drilled centered hole in the broken bolt or vise grip applied to a bolt or stud thats sticking above the surface enough to grip will remove most studs or bolts, installing the studs or bolts with ANTI-SEIZE on the threads prevents this from occurring

read thru the link
http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/...g+rusted#p8498

 

so i ended up doing what he said step my step, spent all day yesstarday just to try to remove this fing bolt, the vise grip was no good, that bolt is stuck, so i went out and bought tools (extracter bits) drilled a pilot hole and started tapping, next thing you know the extracter bit busted inside the bolt, and now im screwed, the exsitng bolt is now flush with the manifold with the extracter bit stuck in it any ideas????????????????????????

 

tpi manifolds are 100 or less on ebay. Sounds like the next step is to weld a nut onto the broken bolt. and after you weld it place a hammer on top ot the nut to drive the heat toward the threads.

 

i dont know how to weld, or know anyone that does, nor do i have a welder

 

looks like you will have to take the intake too a welding shop or buy a good used intake

 

You may be grumpy, but you are right! Anti sieze should be used any time you are threading steel into aluminum, or steel, or iron, or any thing else thats not food grade equipment or cylinder head bolts or main caps, maybe. But every thing else it rocks!

 

I just got through going through this exact same thing. I couldn't find a stock TPI base so I ended up buying an Edelbrock base & replacing the whole intake base. Not fun nor cheap, but I had zero choice. I did plan on taking the stock intake base to a machine shop to get it drilled out & rethreaded(nutsert), but I haven't done it.

 

obviously I was not there, but repeated heat, lubricate, freeze and lube application cycles WILL allow the threads to be broken loose from the corrosion, in the threads holding the stud or bolt,its simply a mater of repeated expansion and contraction of the two metals and the difference in heat transfer between the two parts, most new guys get into a hurry, thinking they can do it once or force it, , and don,t use enough heat or lube spray or freeze spray and try to force it rather than allow the repeated cycling to allow the lubricant to seep into the threads.
yes it usually helps to drill a small centered hole thru the bolt so lubricant spray can act or seep in from both ends of the threads, but forcing it usually results in the broken extractor bit you experienced, your surely not the first or the last guy to do that its part of the learning curve.